Dog days of summer are the muggiest days of the summer and generally are considered to occur from July 2 to Aug 11.

Wonder where that term came from? Ancient Egyptians. Before smog, lights and construction obscured the night sky, people used to watch the stars and imagine the constellations formed pictures of common items.

Among those common items were dogs. Two of those constellations became known as Canis Major and Canis Minor. The brightest star in the night sky and one which was part of Canis Major was called Sirius, the dog star.

During July/August, Sirius rises and sets with the Sun at times. Our ancient forefathers believed the star?s heat added to the sun?s which created 20-days of hot and muggy weather. This period became known as ?dog days? after the dog star.

Whatever the scientific background of the term, there?s no denying July and August can be beastly hot ? for us and our dogs.

You must know the prime rules of summer ? never leave a dog in a parked car! and see he has plenty of water to drink but here are three tips that are not so obvious.

1. Prevent sunburn

This is a major problem for hairless dogs such as Chinese Crested, for dogs with bare skins such as Maltese with their parted hair exposing bare skin and for any dog?s exposed ears and nose. Be advised that an overdose of sun may be associated with cancers of the nose and ears.

Don?t let your dog out in the sun, especially on a beach, for long periods of time and use a safe-for-dogs sun block on him.

Remember your dog will want to lick any suntan lotion off so you must be sure it is non-toxic to him. Your vet can recommend a brand or use a product made for babies. Doggles, the company that makes sunglasses for dogs, has come out with a sunscreen safe for dogs called Doggles Pet Screen. It?s available at http://www.entirelypets.com/petsunscreen.html $8.99 for a 2-oz spray.

I prefer to use stick sunscreen as it?s harder for a dog to lick off. If you use a sun block for babies make sure it doesn?t contain any lanolin or baby oil.

2. Protect his paws

Hot pavement and unclean grass can be hard on a dog?s paws. I like to use all-weather Muttluks on my dog while other people try something like Vaseline on their paws.

If it?s too hot or you don?t like paw protectors, there are two products to consider:

1. Shaws Paw Wax which is very popular at dog shows to prevent dogs from slipping on the floors. The Paw Wax will help protect your dog?s paws from the heat as well as gravel, asphalt and all hard surfaces. Shaw’s Paw Wax is $5.95 for a can.

2. Musher?s Secret is a popular product that protects paws from hot concrete as well as icy pavement. Apply a thin coat on pads and between the toes. You only use this product once a week unless your dog is out in extreme conditions. It?s $9.95 for a jar.

Both products are safe for dogs and available through the Internet.

3. Beware your own backyard

Along with all the dangerous plants and diseases hiding in the grass, don?t forget about your garden hose. It is NOT advisable to let your dog drink from a hose.

Standard vinyl garden hose has substances in it to keep the hose flexible. These chemicals, which get into the water as it goes through the hose, are not safe for humans or pets and there’s also no way to tell what’s inside the hose.

The outside thread opening at the end of the hose could be contaminated, covered with chemicals or germs or bacteria from a previous use, dirt, insects, or rodents.

A more current problem is West Nile virus which dogs can get from mosquitoes just as we can. Officials say pet owners should avoid walking dogs especially older dogs in areas with a lot of mosquitoes and should keep them indoors in the evening.

Never use insect spray on dogs because the dog can lick it off and ingest it. As a general preventive, take a few minutes daily to run your hands, or a comb, through your dog’s coat to look for ticks and other insects.

Most of all, enjoy the summer sun and vacation time with your canine companion. Just make sure it?s a safe summer for both of you.

Louise Louis is a certified canine specialist and creator of the popular website on small dogs, http://www.ToyBreeds.com

Who doesn?t like to visit the local discount/Dollar store in search of deals? Many pet care items can be purchased at these stores, some of these items are not obviously for pets. A trip to the Dollar store can be an excellent time to stock up on grooming supplies, as well as an opportunity to build a pet First Aid kit.

Boar Bristle brushes are often available at these stores, in the section for human hair care. These brushes are a necessity for a nice glowing finish. You can find quilted cosmetic pads for ear cleaning, as well as tearless Baby Shampoo to use on your dog?s face. If you want to smooth the nails without the use of a nail grinder (which must be used with care), you can find packages of emery boards to smooth out the rough edges after you clip. Tweezers are a good thing to have, get a pair to put in your Dog?s Fist Aid kit.

You can really clean up in the medicine isles of these stores. It?s a great place for non-buffered, non-coated aspirin( NOT Ibuprofen). Real aspirin is basic in your Dog?s first aid kit. This can be administered to dogs for muscle strains, joint aches, teething pain or any inflammation. Call your vet for dosage. You will need a bottle of liquid bismuth (pink stuff), this helps diarrhea and upset stomach. Again, call your vet for dosage. There will be a variety of non-adhesive bandages here, as well as gauze. Get plenty, they are always good. (Make a stop at your farm store, get some co-flex bandage wrap (sticks only to itself). This will hold your bandage in place, and so worth the $2.00 you will spend on it.) Although you don?t need these things often, when there is an emergency and you need them, it?s really awful not to have them. And having dogs is a lot like having kids, at some point, sometime, something will happen.

Get a pair of blunt nosed gauze scissors if they have them, as well as gauze fasteners (these are just small pieces of metal with teeth at each end).You will need a tube of antibiotic ointment, which they should have. It?s usually called triple antibiotic or Bacetracin or the like. If they carry thermometers, rectal or not, grab one. A dog normally has a body temp. of 101 F, a temp. can tell you much about what?s going on, and if your dog should see a vet. If there is a bottle of buffered saline solution for eyes, this makes a very nice eyewash in a pinch. Occasionally, these stores carry Electrolytic Solution for dehydration (generally in the Baby section), if so get one of these. Ipecac can be a good thing to have on hand also, in case of accidental poisining that calls for you to induce vomiting. In the case of poisoning, call your vet IMMEDIATELY, with some substances YOU DO NOT WANT TO INDUCE VOMITING. I can?t stress enough the importance of having your vet?s number posted and using it in these cases.

Jen Thon lives with her beautiful family in a small town in Michigan. She has been involved with pets for 30 years, as a trainer, the owner of my own grooming shop for ten years, and as a pet lover. Even though she has a BS in Psychology with studies in Animal Behaviorism, still she constantly learns new things from pet lovers she meets online and off. Jen says As a mom, I found it was necessary to work from my home, on my own (or rather the kid’s) schedule. So I, combined my love of animals with my experience of what works and what doesn’t nutritionally, and that was the beginning of Small Town Pets. I’ve always heard you’re supposed to make a living with what you love, that way you love your job! So that’s what I’ve done, with the advent of my online holistic store. Also, as a pet owner for three decades I’ve found many things that work for cleaning, and many that don’t. Cats and dogs (in most cases) are much smaller than humans, therefore they are much more suseptible to the negative effects of chemicals that are in the most common of products. That is why she decided it was so important to try and educate owners on the dangers of feeding chemicals, and using harsh cleaning products.

In her store, at www.smalltownpets.net/TownStore/ you will find an array of natural cleaning products that Jen uses herself, and wholeheartedly recommends. So please, browse the site and store, enter Pet of the Week contest, and leave a comment on the blog or forum!

Our dogs come in all sizes, shapes and breeds; therefore, there are many different types of dog beds and pet bedding available to buy online. If you are looking for a small dog bed, a large dog bed or even an extra large dog bed, they can all be found right here!

When looking for a dog bed you need to keep in mind your dog breed, and your living style. Some people like their dog beds to match with their home decor, and therefore, should be looking for a designer dog bed. Other people may want their dog to feel like a King or Queen so they want a luxury dog bed, a personalized dog bed, or a fancy dog bed. Or maybe you are looking for a bed that will not be at your primary residence so you want a cheep dog bed or a discount dog bed or wholesale dog bed. Wicker dog beds are a great addition to any home or home away from home. What ever your dog?s desire it can be found here.

If your living style is one of travel and adventure then your dog?s bed needs to be compatible with that style. You need to look at buying a dog car bed or an outdoor dog bed or a canopy dog bed or a waterproof dog bed or a bed tent for a dog or even a dog travel bed. Depending on what kind of travel you do will depend on the type of travel dog bed you buy.

If you have a large breed dog, or even a small breed dog you may be looking for free shipping for your dog bed many online stores will offer this, you just need to inquire. If your dog breed is prone to physical problems or your dog is just getting old, or you want to really pamper your dog then look at memory foam dog beds, and orthopedic dog beds. Elevated dog beds and raised dog beds as well as a dog bed ramp may come in very handy with your dog.

Take care of your dog; after all they are a part of your family.

Pam Caouette is the main author for http://a-plus-pet-supplies.com Find information for all your pet supply needs here.

What does pet care mean for you? Are you looking for tips on how to properly provide care for your pet, maybe you are looking for insurance coverage for your little critter, or possibly in need of information on grooming your pet, breeding, feeding, supplies and equipment. These are all the types of things we could use to provide proper pet care to our furry friends.

Whatever we need to make sure our pets are properly taken care of can be referred to as pet care. However, in most cases, we are talking about insurance for our pets, to ensure they receive the best care possible without breaking your bank. Whether your pet requires first aid treatment, dental care, flea treatment or emergency surgery, your pet heath care provider can take most of the financial impact off your hands. Your pet can be covered for as little as ten dollars, and considering an emergency surgery can easily reach amounts well over the thousand dollar mark, it almost seems like you cannot afford to go without pet health coverage.

If you think a pet insurance plan is not something you would like, there are other alternatives to provide proper pet care for your pet at a discounted price to you. There are companies such as PetAssure that offer discount packages, and your veterinarian may be able to lead you in the right direction by telling you where you can get pet wellness packages. Lets face it, making sure your pet gets the care it needs should not feel like a burden on you. And without coverage, those vet visits can add up, especially when surgery comes into play. To some people, it is a wise choice that will bring a feeling of relief when those unexpected vet bills arise.

Dean Cecere is a regular contributor of informative and resourceful articles focusing on a variety of life issues.

Please visit http://www.pet-supplies-guide.com for more helpful pet ideas and solutions.

Thank you, and please feel free to use this article. Keeping the above link live is greatly appreciated.

Many dogs today suffer from itchy skin caused by a variety of factors. Dogs actually have more sensitive skin than humans, and are often exposed to a variety of irritants in their environment. These grooming tips may help alleviate your dog?s constant itching.

Brushing your dog daily will remove pollens, grasses, and other outdoor irritants as well as stimulating the skin?s circulation and preventing matting. Brush carefully and down to the skin, taking care not to tug on tangles, and using a soft bristle brush on sensitive areas.

Bathing should also be done on a monthly basis, following a thorough brushing. Use a natural, low lather, low irritant shampoo, wet your dog down thoroughly with lukewarm water, and apply the shampoo using your hands. Avoid getting water or shampoo in his eyes and ears, and lather all over, right down to his skin, then rinse thoroughly. Shampoo residue is a major cause of skin irritation for dogs. After rinsing, towel dry your dog, and avoid using any coat finishers or blow dryers, which can also cause skin irritation in a sensitive dog.

Grooming is essential for a dog?s skin health, helps you identify skin problems early on, and is a great way for you to bond with your dog as well!

About The Author

Alexandra DeBoer is the creator of a low-lather shampoo line for sensitive dogs. You can learn more about her company at: www.barknbath.com.

bow-wow@barknbath.com

Pet care is important to ensure that pets live long and healthy lives. However, first time pet owners have much to learn about how to take care of their pets. Today, first time pet owners can gain access to the information they need, which can help them know how to properly care for their pets. Resources include the Internet, pet stores, and veterinarians. If you are a first time pet owner, you have the obligation to find out all you need to do to properly care for your pet.

One of the first things you need to do is to ensure that your pet is eating nutritious and healthy food. There are quite a number of good quality pet food brands to choose from. It’s just as important to know what you should not be feeding your pet, as there are cases where the food that humans eat may prove lethal to some pets. Another important thing you need to ensure is that the housing and the space you provide for your pet should be adequate enough for your pet to move around so that it can get the exercise it needs. If you have limited space available, make sure you take your pet outside where it can exercise. In addition to these, you should also try to bring your pet to the veterinarian as regularly as possible so that your pet would get the necessary vaccinations and treatments to keep him healthy. Getting insurance for your pet may help offset the costs of such treatments.

For first time pet owners, the responsibility of taking care of their pets can be a bit daunting. Fortunately, the information that pet owners need to help them take care of their pets is readily available from a number of sources. Moreover, taking some necessary yet simple steps can make first time pet owners into knowledgeable owners in no time.

Pet Care provides detailed information on Pet Care, Pet Health Care, Pet Care Products, Pet Day Care and more. Pet Care is affiliated with Pet Health Care.

Now that your dog has mastered all of the necessary commands to be well behaved, it’s time to have some real fun! It’s easier to teach your dog tricks once he’s learned how to respect you and you’ve earned his trust. Those necessary commands help him to do that.

Try these tricks to entertain both of you!

1. Fetch. It’s no fun to play ball with a person or an animal that won’t give the ball back. Teaching your dog how to fetch will make you both wish playtime would never end.

If your dog is a retriever, you’re ahead of the game. Your dog is hard-wired to want to fetch. But other breeds catch on quickly, too. You just have to be more patient and consistent. Train with your dog just a few minutes a day to be the most effective.

To teach your dog to fetch, you need a retrieving training tool called a dumbbell. You can buy it at the pet store. It will be a wooden or plastic tube with flanges on both ends to keep it from falling out of your dog’s mouth. Be sure to buy one that your dog can pick up easily and one that will allow him to close his mouth around the middle, not the flared edges.

You start training a dog to fetch by teaching him to open his mouth. Say Take it and offer him a food treat. Once he starts opening his mouth in expectation when he hears you say, Take it, slip the dumbbell inside his mouth. Leave the dumbbell there for a second, then praise him and give him a treat. Try this about four times, and then stop. Do this part of the training for a few days until your dog gets used to having the dumbbell in his mouth.

Now, start putting the dumbbell in your dog’s mouth and command, Hold it. Gently hold his mouth around the dumbbell for a few seconds. Then say, Give, and let him spit the dumbbell out. Be sure to praise him and give him a treat. Do this exercise for a few days until your pet will hold the dumbbell in his mouth.

Next, hold the dumbbell in front of your dog’s mouth and command, Take it. Pull his head toward the dumbbell if you have to. Be sure to praise and give him a treat, even if he just moves his head toward the dumbbell. Practice this until he’s used to taking the dumbbell in his mouth. All you have to do now is increase the distance slowly. Continue working on Hold it, and Give. It might be a good refresher course for Come, too. Before too long, your dog will put it all together!

2. Speak. This is usually a simple trick for your dog to learn if he’s vocal already. The trick is to entice him to do it on command and from distances.

First, choose a hand signal – some trainers make a twisting motion with a closed fist; others open and shut their hand using their fingers and thumb. Using your hand signal, command your dog to speak. When he barks, reward him and praise him. If your dog doesn’t bark automatically, continue to give the command until he gets frustrated and barks, then quickly reward him. Keep practicing and he’ll soon understand.

3. Shake hands or Gimme five. This is perhaps the easiest trick to teach your dog. Give your dog the Sit command. While you gently hold his paw with one hand, say Gimme five and hand him a treat with your other hand. You shouldn’t have to do this more than a few times for your dog to get the hang of it.

4. Give me a kiss. This is another easy one. Most dogs will kiss you whether you want them to or not! All you have to do is get them to do it on your terms. Command your dog, Give me a kiss, and then put your cheek in front of his mouth. When he licks your cheek, praise him and give him a treat.

5. Roll over. Start by giving your dog the Down command. Kneel beside him and gently roll him over on his side and command, Roll over. Keep rolling him until he’s upright again, and then give him praise and a treat.

A couple of caveats about this trick:

- Don’t keep trying it if it’s obvious your pet doesn’t like being on his back. Some dogs have stronger backs than others, and if you are successful in teaching your dog to roll over, it’s probably a trick you want to retire when he’s middle aged. Most elderly dogs have back and hip pain, and there’s no point in making your pet suffer.

- Be sure to only perform this trick on grass or carpet. Asking your dog to roll over continuously on a hard surface could hurt him.

6. Play dead. This trick produces gales from laughter from school-age boys, so if you have one of those, you might want to get him involved with training the dog on this one. A good time to practice this trick is you’re your dog has just exercised and is ready to rest. There’s a prerequisite, too – your dog must know the Down command.

Give your dog the Down command and notice what side he’s leaning on. Gently push him on over as you command, Bang. As he rolls over, praise him and rub his tummy. Repeat until you don’t have to use pressure to force him to roll to his side. Use the Stay command to stay dead. Add the hand signal, a pointing forefinger, as you command the Bang.

Most Important Is that you have fun with your dog. A happy dog will always be the dog that responds to your every command. Have a fun day with your dog!

Marilyn Burnham

Author: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90′s. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

Congratulations! You have brought home a new best friend- a bunny! You will find that your new rabbit companion will bring you much joy, though your vaccum cleaner may not necessarily agree!

Some of the first things you will want to do is set up an area for bunny only. I recommend an area that is easy to clean, such as a floor where you can easily sweep debris straight outside, or, designate an old vaccum for your rabbit area only as you will need to clean up every day, or, at the very least, every other day. Rabbits poop constantly, but luckily, it’s very easy to clean up.

Many people prefer to keep their rabbits outside, however, for this article, I will not focus on that.

When I unexpectedly received my first bunny friend, I hadn’t a clue what to do or how to take care of him. Unfortunately, he was confined in the kids’ bathroom for a few days while I scoured the internet in search of information. Thankfully, this time around, I was a quick study and he was soon permitted the run of our home!

If you choose to keep your rabbit indoors, you can do that relatively inexpensively, and still have a hoppy bunny! Here is what you will need; you can find these items for a few dollars or a bit more at a WalMart or a pet store:

BOWLS A water dish that won’t tip, preferably a clay one. Unless you are going to be keeping your bunny in a small cage, you do not need a drip spout water container. Rabbits can drink just like other animals. One or two food dishes which won’t tip over, again, heavy, of the clay or similiar type.

LITTER BOX: You can buy a regular cat box, but do not buy cat litter as it is dangerous if ingested or breathed by bunnies! Hay is an excellent choice. Other types of litter to use are derived from alfalfa, oat, citrus or just plain old paper, though paper will do nothing to take care of the strong urine smell of a bunny. As rabbits are very clean animals, it’s very important to clean their areas often. It’s also important that, once you have arranged their area, to leave it ‘as is’ as much as possible, as rabbits are creatures of habit and like their areas just so.

FOOD: HAY! Hay is very important to a bunnies’ diet! Rabbits are vegans, and therefore must have grass, hay, some fruits and veggies. If you are going to a farmer for hay, you want the square bale hay, not the round bale. The round bale is ‘junk’ hay- the type cows eat. Rabbits’ digestive systems cannot handle that type of hay. You also do not want to offer straw. A moderate amount of pellets are okay as well, unless you happen to have an underweight bunny. They adore carrots, apples, pears, timothy grass. Limit cabbage and lettuce as this can give a rabbit diarrhea.

What we did was have a bag of carrots, pellets, (dried, processed rabbit food), timothy grass and apples always on hand for our rabbit. We let him outside in a roomy cage during the day to eat plenty of fresh grass, clover and some pellets, and at night we gave him free access to pellets, timothy grass, a bit of apple, carrots and pears.

WATER: Rabbits drink A LOT! Always provide fresh water. We have two dogs and two cats, so we change our water several tmes a day. Change your rabbits’ water at least two or three times daily. They all drank from the same bowls, so I wash the bowls every day as well.

SLEEP: Rabbits are nocturnal, meaning, they are active in the early morning and evening hours. They will find somewhere to sleep during the day. My rabbit usually slept under my bed. However, this is not encouraged because rabbits tend to dribble quite often and it’s hard to get under a bed every day to clean up rabbit poop! This is a good time to put the rabbit in its’ own private spot.

Rabbits love to hide, so a small doghouse, a box with windows cut out, or even a chair with a big sheet or a blanket covering it are all good places for a rabbit to hide out and feel secure.

TOYS AND CHEW-THINGS: Rabbits not only love to chew, but they must as well. Their teeth continue to grow, so they must always have something to chew. Good choices, of course, are carrots, fruits, untreated wicker, pine cones, cardboard, and twigs. If you do allow your bunny to have free run of your home, you must bunny proof, which is akin to baby-proofing, as your bunny will chew everything- wires, furniture, and a lot more.

Choose cardboard, baby toys (laugh as they throw these and kitty toys!), phone books, balls of any size. Give too many toys, not too few. If you give too few toys or activities, you will soon find your baseboards, sweaters, wires, furniture, shoes and other things chewed!

Now that you have the basics, settle in for a few days with your new bunny! Keep your bunny in a designated spot for those few days as he or she learns to use the litter box, learns where his or her food is and just learns that you are a friend.

One last thing: Be careful when picking up your bunny- he or she is not a kitten or a puppy! Rabbits are very shy and easily scared creatures, and they are animals of prey, so when you pick them up, let them know you are there, and pick them up from their sides, and carefully- NEVER by their ears, and never from behind as you will startle them and find yourself with some nasty scratches. Earn their trust. If at first, your bunny will not allow you to hold him or her, don’t fret. I will address that issue in another article, as well as a favorite rabbit issue of mine, called grooming.

If your rabbit does approach you in the meantime, talk to him or her softly, scratch him or her behind the ears, under the chin, on the back jaw and on the top of the head.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

It?s not that only humans suffer from stress and develop stress related illness. Animals too suffer from stress. We often remain oblivious to the fact that pets also suffer from stress. Being extremely sensitive to their surrounding, pets are known to develop emotional bonding with their owners (especially dogs) as well as fellow pets and any change in the environment triggers ?change? related stress in the same ways as it triggers stress in humans.

Stress usually is a response to stimuli involving situations that we consider to be threatening, depressing or out of control. The same is true for your dog. The animals respond by ?fight or flight? method when threatened or frightened. During the flight or fight response, a complex series of chemical reactions and changes occurs in the nervous system of the body.

Sometimes, the ?fight or flight? response doesn’t work, and the animal becomes very irritated or upset, then it may adopt the ?conservation-withdrawal? response. This response is initiated by the hippocampus (part of the brain), which then signals the hypothalamus leading to release of chemicals that stimulate the pituitary gland to produces a compound. This compound in turn activates the adrenal cortex to release corticosteroids which calm the nerves.

Long-term corticosteroid release suppresses the immune system, which makes your pet highly prone to diseases. The stomach is stimulated to release acids by the corticosteroids, which can lead to peptic ulcers. Both the ?fight or flight? response and ?conservation-withdrawal? tend to physically tax the animal leading to disruption of normal metabolism, growth, reproduction, and immune function, and can also cause an animal to self-mutilate. Other physiological events that occur are a decrease in heart rate, sometimes to the point of stopping completely and loss of appetite. Your pet may ultimately die for no apparent reason.

Conditions such as infection, being kenneled, travel, breeding, separation from owner, shifting, addition or loss of a family member or another household pet, can cause stress in animals. In such cases, you dog can become extremely bored or show symptoms of severe stress such as fear, uneasiness and restiveness.

Dogs under stress can become violent, stop eating or overeat, become hypersensitive, bark incessantly, become hyperactive, destroy things or move objects in and around the household and resort to nervous licking or chewing of their own bodies. They can develop diarrhea, lose hair, develop mushrooming parasite populations, and their immune system can just disintegrate. What?s more disturbing is that stress can be a cumulative process. Each stressor by itself may not be significant and may seem apparently harmless, but when they affect your pet sequentially or simultaneously, they may push it over the threshold toward illness or death.

Stress Relieving Medicines

Dogs can be administered Stress Relievers to calm them. Some of these stress relievers claim to promote a sense of calm in animals exhibiting fear, fretting, anxiety or any unwanted behavior. But these medicines can also have certain risks and side effects. They can have toxins and induce drowsiness in your dog. These medicines may make your dog prone to reactions, drug interactions or adverse effects and are considered to be unsafe, inappropriate or completely ineffective.

These stress relievers are only meant to control short-term behavioral stress and anxiety and can be very detrimental to the pet?s health if administered on a long-term basis, even leading to death.

The Ultimate Remedy: PET-MUSIC

It has long been stated that music calms the savage beast and now with research to support that adage, you may be able to overcome stress or anxiety your own pet experiences. There are a variety of remedies to alleviate the stress your pet feels, and none may be more enjoyable for you and your pet than some soothing music. There is pet music to specifically provide a soothing soundtrack to lessen the stress of your pet and increase the positive brainwaves that elicit feelings of well being keeping them in good spirits.

Music therapy has revolutionized the way we can alleviate stress and anxiety in pets. It is safe with absolutely no side effects. This therapy employs music to untangle the knotted and stressed out nerves and brain, relaxing the mind-body as a whole. This music therapy is a method of beneficially recharging the cortex of the brain and distributing the latent energy throughout the nervous system of your pet. Usually, the effect of therapeutic music upon your pet is one of vitalizing, harmonizing and healing at almost every level of being. Music therapy is one of the most preferred techniques for relieving negative effects of stress.

Modern therapeutic science says that music has a massaging effect on our brain. Perhaps, that is the primary reason for widespread usage of music as anti-anxiety and antidepressant therapy and the handiest tool for relaxation when it comes to calming pets. helping ease depression, and aiding recovery from illness.

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So you’re having kittens! Well, your mama cat, or Queen, as a pregnant cat is referred to, is. Our cat recently had kittens, and after extensive research on the net for tips on what to expect, I found that experience is the best teacher. With that said, hopefully these tips of our cats’ birth will help with your own experience.

The Basics:

As mentioned, a pregnant cat is called a Queen. The gestation period for a Queen is approximately 56-63 days. A queen typically will have anywhere from two to six kittens, sometimes more. Our cat had three. Several factors determine the litter size including age of the Queen, body size, how many male cats mated with her, and heredity.

Provided your Queen has a normal pregnancy, caring for her should be as normal. Ensure she always has access to fresh water and plenty of food. It’s recommended that she be offered kitten food as that has a higher calorie count and extra nutrition her body will need. As well, continue to offer kitten food while she is nursing.

Allow her plenty of space to exercise, especially outside, if possible. Keep her moving and in shape for the birth and nursing period.

If she has a favorite area of the house, prepare it beforehand with towels, old clothes and similiar. Her birthing area is subject to change, though, the closer she comes to beginning labor. With our cat, she chose her spot mere minutes before her first kitten was born. I’d prepared a space in my closet, and in a big box, but she chose under my bed and would not have her kittens elsewhere. Keep her litter box nearby and her food and water, if possible. Mother cats who are attentive and interested in their kittens will not be away from them for very long.

Pre-Labor:

Within a few days before active labor begins, your Queen’s behavior may change. She may do a total one-eighty. If she seemed aloof and independant, she may become especially loving, clingy and needy, wanting to be held and be near you. If she was the cuddly type beforehand, she may become distant and want to be alone. You’ll know birth is but a few days away if she changes her behaviors.

Her appetite may decrease. This is perfectly normal. Continue to offer food and fresh water.

Labor and Delivery:

The day of labor, you likely will see marked changes in your Queen’s behavior. She may meow, or speak loudly and frequently, and may act a bit frantic. She’ll also likely be searching for her nest. It’s best to allow her to birth where she chooses, unless that area is not safe. Wherever she chooses, she’ll likely keep the kittens there for several days to weeks, although, if she’s like our cat, she may move them a few times.

Right before the birth of the first kitten, you’ll see greenish liquid. This is normal, and she’ll clean it up. When you see this, you’ll know birth is but minutes or a few hours away. You’ll know what she needs- if she wants to be left alone, or if she wants you near.

With our cat, I allowed her to give birth to the first kitten on my bed, with plenty of towels. She loved it when I gently stroked her belly. I talked to her and helped her if she needed it.

Prepare to be very excited if you’ve never witnessed a live birth before! Don’t be away too long if you wish to see it, because once labor is in full force, the baby will come out fast! First you’ll see a dark and wet ball. That is the kitten in the sac. Once the kitten is out, there’s nothing you can do but watch. Mama will cut the sac open, eat it and lick the baby to stimulate it to breathe. Don’t be alarmed when you don’t see the baby breathing in the first few minutes. If more than 4-5 minutes pass and the baby is not responsive, immediately contact your vet.

The mother will sever the umbilical cord and deliver the placenta, which she will eat. It’s rich in nutrients and there is nothing for you to do until she delivers her litter. Then, you can quietly clean up and let her be provided all is well.

After her litter is delivered, and you are certain kittens and mother are doing well, you can leave her be. The kittens will nurse on their own and mama will continue to make sure they remain alert and well. Stay nearby if possible for the first day or so, and keep her food and water close by.

Enjoy your new family and expect many changes in the coming weeks!

LifeWriter is an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Creative Writing.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

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