Owning A Wild Or Exotic Cat Information Laws And Advice

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 1 March 2010 5:00 pm

Have you ever dreamed of living with a bobcat or having a pet tiger? You’re not alone, and many people share their lives responsibly and safely with such animals. My beloved companion is a African Serval, a very affectionate 33-pound spotted feline. However, this dream come true brings with it some very real challenges and responsibilities far beyond those facing the average pet owner.

A huge number of visitors to my exotic feline site are trying to make very important decisions. Should I get a exotic cat? Is this species the right fit for my family? Can I provide for one properly?

There are a number of things to take into consideration when deciding if exotic cat ownership is for you, and if the answer is yes, which species of exotic cat is suitable for your situation. They include:

  • Your ability to make a lifetime committment to an animal who may cause you considerable headaches
  • Your ability to be a responsible owner
  • Local and Federal Laws
  • Your financial ability to provide proper care and housing for the cat
  • Your level of experience in working with animals
  • Size of the cat
  • Disposition of the cat
  • Endangered Species Status

Owning an exotic cat requires a lifetime committment to a cat who may live to be 20 years old. If your circumstances change, the cat develops behaviors that are unacceptable to you, or you simply grow tired of caring for it, an exotic cat cannot simply be given over to your local humane society. Being placed in a new home is much more traumatic to an exotic cat than to most domestic animals and can cause a major change in their personality. In some cases, they may never accept a new owner. Qualified people willing to take in an adult exotic cat are hard to find, and no, the local zoo will not accept your cat. Large cats such as cougars and tigers are especially hard to place.

Everyone gets an animal with a certain dream in their minds about how that animal will behave, and some people cannot handle it if things turn out differently. For instance, if you want to own a tiger, you probably imagine being able to play with it and cuddle with it. That may happen; but if you undertake this responsibility you have to be prepared for the fact that you might not be able to so much as enter the cat’s enclosure safely, even if you raise him from a cub.

If you are interested in getting a small cat like a bobcat or a serval, you probably imagine sharing your household with it, as many people do. But what if that cat grows up to spray everything in sight?

If you’ve been researching the idea of owning an exotic cat, you’ve probably discovered how much conflicting information there is. Some sources seem to indicate that living with an exotic cat is no more challenging than feeding your pet goldfish. At the other end of the extreme spectrum, many sanctuaries and animal rights activists paint them as unmanageable creatures that no ordinary mortal could hope to deal with successfully. As is usually the case, the truth lies in a rational world between the two extremes. This site exists to provide realistic and balanced information.

Like all creatures, exotic cats are all individuals, and nobody can tell you exactly how your future cat will act. Generalizations can be made about the behavior of different species, but individual personalities and behavior traits vary widely. As a dog trainer, I have seen puppies with the perfect upbringing turn out dangerously aggressive, and severely abused dogs who were stable and friendly. I have met dangerous Golden Retrievers and unprovokable Pit Bulls. It’s the same with cats; you can generalize to a certain extent, but never count on those generalizations.

If you decide that you are serious about getting an exotic feline, one of the first things you need to do is learn the federal, state, county, and city laws regulating the ownership of the species you are considering in your area. Contarary to popular myth, exotic animal ownership is pretty heavily regulated. Laws and permit requirements vary widely from area to area, and owning exotic cats is banned altogether in many places.

The legal issues will become vastly more complicated if you are interested in owning a cat that is endangered. While it is not impossible, the additional laws and permits that you have to contend with makes owning an endangered cat an unrealistic goal for most people.

Owning an exotic cat means having to remain constantly aware of changing laws and of proposed legislation, and being prepared to fight for the continued right to own your beloved pet.

Owning an exotic cat can be quite expensive. You will need to take into consideration the cost of building a secure and spacious enclosure, feeding costs, veterinary costs, the initial purchase of the kitten, and incidental expenses which seem to crop up on a continual basis. The cost of owning a smaller cat such as a serval or bobcat is more likely to be affordable than that of owning a tiger or other large cat. When you get into the large cats you will find that your feeding and enclosure costs escalate dramatically.

A major consideration is the size of the cat. Some species are smaller than a domestic cat, while others reach 500 pounds. The most common species to find in a pet household is the serval, which ranges fron roughly 18-40 pounds.

Owning a small cat is a more realistic goal for most people than a large cat such as a tiger. Large cats are very expensive to feed and house, heavily regulated by the federal government, and of course much more dangerous. Often keepers are unable to safely enter the enclosures of big cats once they mature. This does not mean that these animals are malicious, but a tiger or other big cat can easily injure you even in play. If you see yourself with a pet cat, start thinking small.

Cougars are an interesting compromise in size and temperament. They are actually classified as small cats even though most people think of them as a big cat. They are large cats and come with all of the duties, responsibilities, and cost of owning a big cat. However, they often have very gentle and affectionate natures; of all the large felines, they are probably the species that you are most likely to be able to have a pet-like relationship with after they mature. For those determined to own a big cat, I would reccommend a cougar over any other species, especially over a tiger.

Owning an exotic feline is not for someone who spends their time in fantasyland. If you are one of those pet owners who think their dog is soooo sweet that he could never, ever harm anyone, that all animals love you because you have a special touch with them, or that no animal will be dangerous as an adult if you love it enough or raise it right, you have no business owning an exotic cat.

You have to be able to objectively assess the safety of any decision you make, whether it involves handling your own cat, letting a family member or member of the public have contact with the cat, etc. You have to be able to say I love Tigger with all of my heart and he loves me back, but I can tell from the playful look in his eye that if I walk into his enclosure now he might hurt me, so I choose not to.

It is important to locate a good veterinarian who is willing to treat your exotic cat before you get one. It can sometimes be difficult to find a good, experienced vet who will be willing to treat exotics. Often, vets are uncomfortable around them or dissaprove of keeping them as pets and will therefore refuse to treat them. Many clinics also lack large enough equipment to handle larger felines like cougars or tigers. Veterinary costs for an exotic cat can be higher than those for a domestic animal, especially if your cat develops a serious problem and you are referred to a specialty clinic or university.

If you choose to own an exotic cat, you owe it to your cat and everyone else who owns exotics to be a responsible owner. What constitutes responsible ownership? Some of the criteria, in no particular order:

  • Provides a ample, nutritious diet suitable to the species
  • Provides ample housing for the cat to live in happily
  • Provides shelter and protection from the elements
  • Provides veterinary care as needed
  • Purchases animals from an ethical and responsible breeder
  • Does not neglect or abuse the animal
  • Provides generally pleasant living conditions and has the cat’s feelings and best interests in mind
  • Makes a good-faith effort to comply with all applicable laws
  • Takes stringent precautions to prevent the escape of the cat
  • Protects the cat from unauthorized contact or harrassment from members of the public
  • Protects the safety of the public and visitors
  • Makes a lifetime committment to caring for the cat

This article is written and copyrighted by Jessi Clark-White of www.exoticcatz.com. This article may be reproduced in its entirety only; permission is NOT granted to display editied versions. This article may not be used to support the ending of private ownership of exotic pets.

For more comprehensive information on exotic pets and their ownership, visit my website, http://www.exoticcatz.com. You can ask the author and other exotic pet owners questions at our online forum.

Dog Care Guide

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 22 February 2010 4:58 pm

In this guide I will go through general dog care for a first time dog owner..

Grooming your dog

Dogs require regular grooming, how much grooming depends on the type of coat. Some breeds of dog only require grooming once every few weeks. Other breeds require daily grooming. Breeds such as poodles must have there coats cut as there fur never stops growing so this is a big issues when considering one of these breeds. When having your dogs coat cut its always best to go to a professional dog groomers as they usually don?t charge all that much and make a good job, its not as easy as it seems.

Cutting your dogs claws.

Dog claws usually need cutting around every six months. To clip your own dog?s claws you will need dog claw clippers. The biggest factor in deciding if to clip your own dog?s claws or have a groomer do it is the color of the claws. If you dogs claws are white its easy to tell where the nerve is where as if there black it?s very hard to find the nerve. In white claws the nerve will appear pink making it easy to avoid when cutting the dogs claws. In white claws the nerve will be showed as pink as long as you do not cut with in 1mm of this pink the claws will be clipped fine. If you cut the claws closer than this they will hurt the dog and bleed.

Brushing your dogs teeth

The main reason to brush your dog?s teeth is to keep them healthy in later life. Many older dogs have teeth and gums problems witch can be very painful. To brush your dog?s teeth all you will need is a dog tooth brush and some dog tooth paste, Please note brushing with human tooth paste can be very dangerous to a dog.

Bathing your dog

Dogs should be bathed around every six months. Bathing your dog to much can cause problems and make the dog smell more than it would without being bathed. The reason for this is dogs coats contain naturally oils to help clean and protect there coats. Excessive bathing can cause these oils to be removed from the dog?s coat. You must use dog shampoo or just water when bathing your dog. As human shampoo can damage the coat or if it gets into the dogs eyes be extremely painful. I hope this guide has covered some basic dog care tips and techniques that will help new or existing dog owners to care for there dog.

Ashley Peach – owner of Dog toys, Dog accessory and Dog coats.

Dog Training The Name Game

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Friday 31 July 2009 6:00 am

Of all the things you can teach your dog, this first exercise will probably be the most appreciated and most used. We like to call this the ?Name Game? and as the title suggests, this exercise is designed for your dog to learn his name!

This lesson can be done on-leash or off-leash, any time and anywhere. However, you should start off in a quiet, controlled environment until your dog responds well to this exercise. We have found that the best way to train your dog is short frequent training sessions, so if you can 4 or 5 sessions of 10-15 minutes is better than one hour long session as your dog will begin to loose concentration if too much time is spent on the same thing.

Here?s how this is done:

Step 1.) Take your dog to a quiet place
Step 2.) Say your dog?s name and immediately give your dog a treat!

Don?t wait for your dog to respond. If he doesn?t look at you, jut put the treat right up to his nose. He will get the idea very soon!

What we are doing here is associating the sound of your dog?s name with receiving something great: the treat, so you want to avoid any extraneous movements on your part that could distract your dog from the sound of his name.

Step 3.) Wait until his attention is focused elsewhere again and repeat steps 1 and 2.

Practice this game several times throughout the day in different settings and with different distractions. Eventually, your dog will automatically respond to you any time he hears his name! You should do this and ensure your dog responds to his mane every time before you move on to any of the other training you have planned for your dog.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare ? give us a visit.

Kitten Vaccinations: Types Of Vaccinations

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Tuesday 28 July 2009 6:00 pm

In recent years, the vaccination of cats has become more popular. The three most common vaccines give protection against feline infectious enteritis (FIE), feline influenza (cat flu) and feline leukaemia (FeLV). An initial course of two injections, the first at nine weeks are usually given, and yearly boosters are recommended thereafter.

FIE causes vomiting and diarrhoea, and the cat develops a very high temperature. Before the vaccine was introduced, it killed a great many cats by dehydration due to the bowel symptoms. Cat flu is caused by two viruses: the feline rhinotracheitis (FCV). FVR is the more severe of the two, causing coughing, sneezing, and nasal and eye discharges.

FVC has milder discharges but more gum inflammation and mouth ulcers. Neither FCV nor FVR is usually deadly but the infection can linger on in the form of snuffles, and some cats become symptomless carriers of the disease. When stressed, these cats develop mild symptoms and spread the virus.

FeLV suppresses the activity of the cat’s immune system, allowing a wide range of symptoms to develop. It often results in the death of the cat after several months of illness. The virus is spread mainly in the cat’s saliva. It is a disease of cats that fight a lot, and of cats in large colonies, who share the same food and water bowls. It should not be a threat in a well-run boarding cattery, where the feeding and grooming utensils are properly cleaned, and the cats do not mix with each other.

A vaccine exists against the chlamydial organism, which can cause not only mild eye and nasal symptoms, but more importantly, infertility and abortion. This vaccine is used mainly in breeding colonies to protect against infertility.

1st Cat Care is to provide information and guidance to pet cat lovers in taking care of their cats’ health, cat toilet training, tips on using the cat litter box, vaccinations, pregnancy and more …

Hamster Hair Loss

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Tuesday 28 July 2009 6:00 am

Please note that the author is not a veterinarian. Please consult your vet for any medical advice about your pet.

Growing up, a sense of wonder at nature and a love for animals was instilled in us. A normal weekend was spent at Elachee Nature Center in Oakwood, GA learning about the climate that controlled Georgia?s agriculture and natural resources. This normally went into detail about animals as well as the plants that naturally supported such wildlife. This inbred fascination with nature was also reflected in our home. My brother, sister, and I all had numerous books on wild animals and we loved to watch The Discovery Channel. My mom brought it on herself that we tended to bring home and love animals. By the time I had moved out, my family had two birds, two turtles, numerous white mice and hamsters, and one very rowdy little dog. After I moved out, I collected a couple of cats and a couple of very rowdy large dogs.

The most recent addition to the family is Hannah, the dwarf hamster. My brother, Bob, brought her home in late 2003 and my mom quickly became enamored with her. Mom has been known to get Hannah out of her cage in the middle of the night to play and feed her almonds in the kitchen while she gets ready for work.

Early in 2005, Hannah began to develop bald spots under her chin and across her body. My mom would often talk about how it worried her during our weekly conversations, but I hadn?t realized how far spread it was until I woke Hannah up one Sunday afternoon. She climbed up against the walls of her plexiglass hamster-haven and I realized that she had lost most of the hair on her stomach in a patch that stretched from her right arm to her right leg. Her little pink skin showed through clear as day, and I got her out for a closer look. She didn?t exhibit any bumps or discomfort as I probed her, although she was a little irritated that I was bringing her out without the offer of a tasty treat. I gave her a hamster treat and set her back down in her little home.

Then, I decided it was time for an internet search. Little Hannah needed some help, and I didn?t want to pay a vet to tell me she was just getting old. I researched ?hamster hair loss? and found that it is a fairly common problem, especially in older hamsters. The search told me that the most common reasons were age, protein deficiency, vitamin deficiency, hair getting caught in the hamster-wheel, mites, and allergic reactions to the bedding. It also let me know how to check her for mites. Mites cause a red or black pattern of bumps on the skin and they normally nest in the hamster?s hair and bedding. I checked her and realized that her skin was clear, smooth, and free from little insects.

I knew Hannah was aging and getting to where this was a natural instance for her species; however, I couldn?t just tell my mom to prepare for a little hamster funeral. I focused on the deficiencies and found that most pet stores sell a water-soluble vitamin supplement for hamsters. You simply dissolve a pill in the hamster?s water supply, and the hamster ingests it without even knowing.

I called my mom and let her know what my research had concluded and she said that she had found basically the same thing in her own search. She said she was going to get a supplement and see how Hannah responded.

After a couple of weeks, Mom reported that Hannah had regained a new love for life and was even making her wheel ?go squeaky, squeaky in the middle of the night.? She mentioned that the hair had not started to grow back but had stopped falling out. She also noted that Hannah seemed to really like her new supplemented water and she had to refill her little dispenser more often.

Before, whenever I had browsed the pet store the animal multivitamins struck me as silliness for profit: a plan to play off our love for our pets to line the company?s pockets. Now that I have seen it in action, I realize how close we are to our little animal neighbors in how our bodies need the substance of healthiness. In animals and in humans, our food comes pre-processed and our exercise is limited by our lifestyle. As people, our doctors, magazines, TV programs on healthy living and even our mothers tell us to take our daily multivitamin to keep us young, fit, and healthy because our food simply does not satisfy the nutritional needs of our bodies. As hamsters, they only have the attention of their owners to see to it that they get what their little bodies need to survive ? and there aren?t any TV commercials on the benefits of hamster vitamins. Now the victim of a successful experiment, it seems that Hannah now has a greater appreciation for her nutritional supplement as well.

For more advice from real professionals, the following websites helped me in my search for the cure:

http://www.hilltopanimalhospital.com/hamsters.htm

http://www.petinfo4u.com/advancedsmallanimals.htm

http://www.britishhamsterassociation.org.uk/getarticle.php?fname=journal/dermatitis.htm

Cynthia Dollins works in corporate America and is well known within her company for her training manuals and easy to understand instructions. She also has a love for animals that is often shown through her writing and an odd family that inspires much humor. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

African Fat Tail Gecko Care (Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus)

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Friday 3 July 2009 10:00 pm

Fat tail geckos are common in captivity, although are not bred as efficiently as the leopard gecko. They are slightly harder to breed and are slower growing than leopard geckos. They are however, wonderful lizards and make excellent pets.

Housing

For a single or pair of fat tail geckos, a vivarium 60cm Length x 30cm Width x 30cm Height will be ample room. If you would like a trio (1 male and 2 females), than a 90cm vivarium would be required with additional hiding places. A vivarium can be made from a number of materials; wooden with melamine coating, glass, plastic and even good quality metal enclosures have been made.

I suggest a wooden vivarium, which is coated with melamine to allow the enclosure to last much longer. If you use regular chipboard or other non-coated woods, the vivarium will not last long with the water spillage and waste products related to keeping any animal. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation holes. Many vivariums are available on the market today already made to suit most reptiles, with ventilation holes and even fittings for the various heat and light appliances.

Substrate & Decor

Fat Tail Geckos come from hot and humid areas which should be re-created in a captive environment. Unlike the leopard gecko, they should be provided with a slightly more humid environment. Soil is an ideal substrate, as it holds the moisture without being wet and allows for natural burrowing to occur. If substrates such as newspaper and dry wood chips are used, it is essential to provide a moist box.

For a naturalistic environment, rocks, wood and plants can all be used. Although some live plants are safe to use, I suggest fake plants. Live plants will require more care and many give off toxic fumes. Be careful when placing heavier objects into the enclosure. Fat Tail geckos like to burrow, and will not hesitate to try and burrow underneath a rock. Make sure these objects are placed directly on the bottom of the enclosure and not on top of the sand, as this will collapse if the gecko decides to burrow under.

If you use any objects which have been outside, wash them thoroughly with hot water and weak disinfectant. It is important to be as clinical as possible and reduce any risk of bringing in infectious diseases or parasites.

Heating & Lighting

The most economical and simple way to add heat and light into your vivarium is to use a single incandescent spot lamp. Usually a 60 Watt bulb will be adequate for smaller vivariums. This should be on for 10-12 hours a day and should be used in conjunction with a Dimming thermostat. During the day time the temperature should be approximately 76?Fat the cool end, and 85-88?F under the spot lamp. Once the light goes out, the temperature should be an overall 72-75?F. It is often enough to just let the vivarium go down to room temperature. However, the temperature should be monitored with a thermometer and if it drops below the recommended temperature, some form of background heating will be required.

Background heat can be added with a small heat mat. This should be placed on the back wall of the vivarium and placed in the centre. Depending on how low the temperature drops at night, will depend on the size of heat you require. However, I suggest a 6?x11? HabiStat heat mat. This should be enough just to bump the temperature up a few degrees.

Feeding & Drinking

It is important that water is available at all times. Fat Tail Geckos are native to West Africa where the humidity is high. They will often drink from water droplets on logs and plants, but will also drink from standing water regularly. A shallow water dish which is hard to tip over and easy to clean is ideal. It is also an idea to have a bowl which does not have small crevices and cracks in it, which mould can build up in, and small insects can hide in.

Fat tail geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects. However will sometimes feed on small pinky mice and perhaps even eat small amounts of tinned pet food. Mealworms, wax worms, earthworms, crickets and locusts are all suitable prey items. However certain foods should be limited. It is important that the food you give your gecko is as highly nutritious as possible. It would be nearly pointless to feed a starved cricket to your gecko. Therefore, placing food such as potato peel and cabbage into the insect?s enclosure will benefit the gecko as much as the insects. Gut-Load can also be bought from many retailers. This is a balanced food for insects and should be offered to the insects at least 12 hours before feeding.

Hatchling or juvenile fat tail geckos should be fed on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 8 small crickets or similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts, and should be no larger than the width of the gecko?s mouth. Wax worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. A Calcium:Phosphorous supplement should be dusted onto the food every other day. This is to aid in growing a healthy, strong bone structure, particularly in the leg and jaw areas. MediVet Repton, 2:1 Calcium:Phosphorous is a good product to use.

Adults can be fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8 insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects, approximately the size of the gecko head. It is important the food is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow. For females in breeding season, calcium supplements should be added to food on every feeding, to aid in the development of the eggs. For males and females out of breeding season, a dusting of supplements once a week will suffice.

Pinky mice should also be offered to breeding females every week, this will help build up fat reserves quickly after the laying of her eggs. They can also be dipped in calcium dust to help maintain healthy eggs.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

You Can Have A Dog And Live In The City

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Wednesday 27 May 2009 9:10 pm

People and dogs, an inseparable combination, you can meet a stranger and if you start talking dogs the chances are you will part as friends, dogs offer companionship, loyalty and love, however those that live in cities might not feel they can have a dog in urban areas. I agree that some breeds of dog are unsuitable for urban living but others are ideal for the city, so there is no need for you city folks to feel left out of the wonderful world of dog ownership.

Some of the breeds you might consider if you do live in a city would include

Chihuahua, these guys are real powerhouse of attitude. They might be small but they know they are important. They are in fact one of the smallest dogs there are but I have seen them telling great Danes what they think of them, small enough to fit into a purse but with lots of heart. The other advantages of their size is that they require little exercise and if they decide to destroy something it is most likely not going to be your whole apartment.

Shih Tzu, The dog most people think of when you mention the term toy dog to them, small, long haired and very well behaved, again they do not need a lot of exercise and there size makes them ideal for apartment living.

Beagles, the beagle is a hardy breed of dog that was original bread for the hunts in England, they are small with short coat, they do have great energy and stamina but as long as they have access to the outside an apartment will for fine for them to live in.

Chi-poo The Chi-poo is a cross between a Chihuahua and typically a female Miniature Poodle, they are usually a good temperament dog and have a loving nature, often the ears stay erect giving them the appearance of listening to what you are saying like a contented companion.

Jack Russell terrier the Jack Russell is a small dog with lots to give, big heart, lots of energy and a very playful manner. They have strong hunting instincts and this might lead them to be confrontational with small animals and they are harder to train than some dogs, but because of their intelligence they do respond very well to an experienced trainer.

I hope this short list has shown you that there are a number of options you can look into if you are considering getting a dog even if you live in an urban environment, the important thing to remember is you should get a dog that can fit into the environment you are able to provide for him.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare give us a visit.

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Chihuahua Care

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Saturday 6 December 2008 4:12 am

Chihuahuas, like any other purebred dog, need some special care. When considering a new breed to purchase, always be informed. Read what you can and ask others who own the particular breed for their opinion. The more information you have, the happier you and your dog will be.

There are differing opinions on how often to bathe a Chihuahua. Bathing too often can dry out the natural oils in the coat, thus causing dandruff and itching. Others say shampooing occasionally with special shampoos enhance the coats sheen. Another suggestion is that you bath your Chihuahua once per month. Ask your veterinarian or local pet store what they suggest. One certainty is that when bathing, take care to not get water in the chis ears. It can lead to infection.

Since Chihuahuas are most often indoor dogs, their nails will need trimming. Trim at least once per month. Start this routine early and be consistent. It will help your dog become used to the clippers as well as having its paws handled.

Ask your veterinarian about your dogs nutritional needs. Some suggest that puppies be fed four times per day after weaning at six weeks. From three to six months, reduce the amount to three meals per day. Then, from six months to one year, two meals. Lastly, once they reach adulthood at one year, one meal per day is fine. Regular dry adult food works fine for this breed. Soft, canned dog food can lead to diarrhea. A mix is often preferred.

A Chihuahuas large eyes attract dust and dirt. And, being so close to the ground, it will pick up quite a lot. So, Chihuahuas produce tears to cleanse their eyes. It is normal to see the area around the eye slightly wet. The tears should be clear with the consistency of water. Should the tears have any other appearance, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Be careful when selecting treats for your chi. Choose those made for small breeds and if rewarding with people food, only in the tiniest amounts. Do not over-indulge your dog. It can easily lead to an overweight and unhealthy companion!

Ask your veterinarian about a schedule for periodic cleaning of your dogs ears and teeth and for vaccinations.

Chis are delightful, hardy little dogs. Given the proper care, they will thrive for many years.

Nikola lives and writes in Oklahoma. She is active in the local Volunteers in Policing and the Citizen’s Police Academy Alumni. She enjoys scrabooking, reading and spending time with her two dogs. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

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Green Iguana Information (Lizard)

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Friday 7 November 2008 12:12 pm

Housing
Normally, adult Iguanas can grow to 5-6 feet and thus should be housed in a larger cage. Tall cages or optimal for this type of lizard as they are tree-dwelling and consequently would prefer to be as high from the ground as possible. It is very important to sterilize all branches that will be placed in the enclosure with a mild bleach solution. The relative humidity level of the enclosure should be kept at approximately 70-75%, and this can be obtained by misting the enclosure a couple times daily. Although many people feel that their Iguana could safely roam around the house, the opposite is generally true. Not only do you run the risk of your lizard knocking over its heat lamp and starting a fire, it is also common for large amounts of damage to be done to furniture, carpet, wiring, etc.

Heating
Reptiles in general are Ectothermic which means that they do not produce their own body heat. Thus, reptiles must be given a combination of both warmer and cooler areas in their enclosure. This will allow them to choose their own temperature. Proper heating is vital to a lizards survival, as it allows for a healthy immune system and proper digestion.

Lighting
Full Spectrum Lighting is vital to a lizards survival. When selecting a light source ensure that it provides ample UVB rays. For Iguanas this is particularly necessary. The most optimal lightin conditions would provide natural sunlight to the Iguanas. This however is normally not practical as even a standard window can filter out the beneficial UVB rays.

For all your lizard information needs visit The Lizard Lounge. All species of Lizards are represented with articles and care sheets.

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The First Few Days With A Grownup Adopted Dog

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Wednesday 22 October 2008 1:14 pm

Often people who get a dog from a rescue or adoption shelter find themselves with a grown animal that they must become acquainted with. What you may not be aware of is that there are some simple things you can do to make this first period of adjustment easier for both you and your new pet. This article covers a number of things you should be aware of during the first few days following the adoption of your new dog.

There are a number of basic supplies you should purchase for your pet prior to adoption. Most of the supplies can be purchased used from a garage sale, or on sale at pet stores. Food and water bowls, should be washed and rinsed so that they are clean and fresh for your new animal. Also, you should come up with some materials for bedding. Often thin blankets or even a section of an old comforter make great bedding for your new pet to rest peacefully on.

Although some pet shelters will provide a leash and collar when you pick up the animal, it may be your responsibility to take care of this. If this is the case, you should proceed to your local pet store, or one-stop shopping center. Most medium to large size pet stores contain machines that will allow you to create an ID tag immediately. While you’re at the store, you should take the time to pick up a large bag of dog food. If you have extra money, you may find it helpful to purchase a Rubbermaid brand container to store the food in. This will allow easier access to the food and keep it fresher for longer periods of time.

On the first day home with your new pet, you can do a number of things to make things easier for you and your new dog. Unless you buy the exact type of dog food your new pet was eating at the rescue shelter, your dog might undergo diarrhea as a result of the change of diet. There are two types of common foods you can use to help ease the transition and avoid this. One is to feed boil some potatoes and mix it in with your dog’s food for the first few meals. Alternatively, you can mix boiled rice in with the food.

At first, you should keep your new dog on a leash around the house. Show him or her where his bed will be and where he can find his food and water dishes. Be sure to keep your pet close by when you are in the house, and allow him or her trips outside. Give your dog kudos when he or she goes outside until the activity has become routine. If your pet has an accident inside, it isn’t necessarily because he or she isn’t housebroken. It is more likely that it hasn’t understood its new surroundings yet.

If you catch your dog having an accident you should loudly say NO. and take the dog outside right away. It is not helpful to try and correct the action after it has already had the accident and never hit your animal if they have a mistake. You will not help the animal understand what went wrong, and will instead bread behavioral problems in your new pet. Always perfect your pets behavior with praise when it does something right.

Lastly, understand that there will be a period of adjustment for both you and your dog, but that the dog will need time to understand what you expect from him or her. It is vitally important that you exercise patience with the animal and do your best not to create a situation where problems are likely to occur. Do your best to be consistent with your animal, and within a short time you will be living together happily.

Tom Samus is a retired legal clerk and dog lover. He enjoys writing and has been published on sites such as Free Dogs and Safe Pets.

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