Dog or a cat with chronic renal failure (CRF, also known as a disease chronic kidney disease) is mainly a disease of older animals found companion, and is a major cause of illness and death. This disease is now in epidemic proportions. Indeed, it is considered the second most common cause of death in cats and is a top ten contributors to the dead dog.

Veterinarians see animals younger and younger in their offices, because of growing environmental pressures.Often, common household chemicals can cause acute renal failure, that after the chronic form of the disease if not treated properly can lead to advancement. Although a genetic predisposition is a crucial factor, and environmental law with toxins, activate the expression of these genes.

It 'important to first gain a basic understanding of this disease before deciding on a program of good treatment.

In the cat or dog kidney failure, is often produced in urinelarge quantities, but is more dilute than normal animals. The animal is usually able to produce concentrated urine. The primary responsibility of the kidney is filtering waste products or toxins in the body, the functional units are the nephrons. In CRF, nephron function begin to deteriorate. They are able to eliminate toxins and to maintain adequate hydration, and consequently increase the level of toxins in the body. Veterinarians agree that the reversal of these trends is importantExtension of a lifetime pet.

Unfortunately, dog or cat renal failure is a serious disease in all breeds. It is usually difficult to cat or dog kidney disease, to a large loss of renal function occurs, and to recognize the symptoms begin to appear. In CRF cat or dog, when the kidneys lose their ability to produce concentrated urine and filter toxins, the cat or dog to urinate more hit, and with greater volume, as the animalbegins to drink plenty of water, concern about the deterioration of the kidneys with sufficient fluid intake. This is a primary sign of the disease.

In the cat or dog kidney disease, animals may suffer symptoms of anorexia, weight loss, dehydration, vomiting or other municipalities. If the animal consumes a lot of water, then it is better to visit a good veterinarian immediately. Although CRF cats or dogs is not a curable disease, but can take some steps to take to slow the disease. We recommendYou'll find that an agreement holistic training for the animal whole.

Remember, GSD training is an important part of owning your dog. As a German Shepherd owner, you own one of the greatest potential athletes in the dog world. Well rounded, these dogs were created on the premise that the dog be versatile, athletic, courageous and mentally sound to excel in any activity in which they participated. Before taking your dog to the next level however, it is best to first make sure that your dog is physically fit by your veterinarian. Your vet will check your dog’s overall health and well being as well as it’s lungs, heart and joints for any potential problems.

Once you get a good bill of health from your veterinarian, the next thing to do is to start a GSD training routine with your dog. Start slowly with short exercise periods a few times daily. There are many excellent ways to build up your German Shepherd’s endurance – swimming, walking and playing fetch are all good ways to start. If your dog stops frequently, pants heavily, limps or shows any sign of pain then take heed, these are all clues that your dog is not yet ready for more vigorous activity.

There are many different types of activities and training which are available for you and your GSD to participate in. In the links below we will attempt to briefly examine and explain what each activity is and also what is involved in participating in each.

Remember, of all breeds, the German Shepherd is the most versatile. He can do it all and do it all well. Often it is the owner who must check his own limitations versus that of the GSD. Of all the various types of GSD training available, you are sure to find one or more that is right for both you and your German Shepherd.

Advanced Training and other Activities for your German Shepherd Dog

Herding and the GSD
Conformation Dog Shows and the GSD
Schutzhund Training and the GSD
Routine Boredom and Stress
GSD Obedience Training
GSD Beginning Agility

The author, a lifelong dog lover and German Shepherd owner, has been a German Shepherd breeder for over to 15 years. For more information and articles covering other German Shepherd related topics, feel free to visit: total-german-shepherd.com

Interested in other purebred dog breeds? Visit: pedigreedpups.com

Canine Diabetes: A Serious Dog Disease That is Completely Manageable

Canine diabetes is a serious disease that causes there to be too much glucose in the blood. If your pet has any of the signs, a dog health exam will help you find out with certainty. Canine diabetes symptoms usually include the following:

- drinking excessive amounts of water
– frequent urination
– weight gain (or weight loss in some cases)
– increased lethargy during the day

A simple blood test can tell the vet if the glucose counts look suspicious. You should have a full physical exam done on your dog annually, even if he seems perfectly healthy. Be sure to ask your vet to include a full blood work-up, to rule out diabetes (as well as many other diseases). It?s well worth the added cost!

If your pet has been diagnosed with canine diabetes, don?t panic. While it is a ?special needs? issue that will influence many daily decisions, it is a manageable disease in dogs. You just have to learn some simple steps and stick to a schedule.

The first goal after a canine diabetes diagnosis is to get the glucose levels down to a normal (or only slightly elevated) level. This will not require thorough dog health exams like the original blood test. The vet can draw some blood and test the levels fairly quickly, with minimal cost to you.

Canine diabetes means someone must administer insulin injections (in most cases). They are easy to do and will quickly become routine. One person in the family should be responsible for the shots, but everyone should know how to give them (age teen and up) in case of a dog health emergency. I highly recommend posting a printout of how to give the injection to your pet in every room in your house, just in case.

In our house, where we have a diabetic dog, we made a canine diabetes ?Dog Health Cheat Sheet? for potential problems, like these:

- too much insulin is accidentally injected
– the needle breaks off while in the dog
– there?s a seizure (not common, but can happen occasionally)

The cheat sheet includes the vet?s emergency number and some basic actions to take in each scenario. We made several copies to be posted all over the house, but especially by the phone, the fridge (where the insulin is kept), and the bed (where our dog hangs out a lot).

The other goal with canine diabetes is to maintain the glucose level (with your vet?s help). It is crucial to take your pet periodically to the vet for a whole day (8-hour period at least) so they can check blood sugar levels throughout the day. Just as in humans, blood sugar levels fluctuate in your pet throughout the day. Having your vet monitor and take several blood readings during a longer stretch of time helps ensure that your diabetes treatments are actually working as intended.

It?s a little more work to care for diabetic dogs, no doubt about it. But our pets are family members and we love them dearly. Right? They give us their devotion, protection, and love, so the least we can do in return is give them proper health care, especially if they have problems like canine diabetes. Going the extra mile for them will help them live happier lives with less pain and more enjoyment. Can there be a nobler goal?

John Schwartz is a freelance writer, webmaster, and dog lover. He has written many published articles on subjects that include shopping for dog supplies, improving pet health, and good dog training practices. Please visit my dog supplies website at http://www.puppies-dogs-supplies.com for more dog and puppy tips.

Separation anxiety problems are diagnosed in around 15% of all behavioural cases. When left alone, most dogs will find a familiar spot and go to sleep. However, a dog when suffering from separation anxiety may become extremely anxious. Not understanding where you or your family have gone or if you will ever return, this dog may exhibit behaviour which can include chewing, barking, salivating, urinating, defecating, vomiting or escape behaviour such as chewing through walls, scratching through doors or exit points, breaking out of cages or trying to dig their way out of gardens and enclosures.

In some cases, the dog can become extremely ill, stop eating, or suffer from depression. I often find single dogs kept in kennels can become morose or lethargic. This can be a major problem with some of our working dogs who are often kennelled and therefore do suffer accordingly. I personally believe that if you intend to kennel your dog then you really should have more than one dog in that environment.

Dogs are conspecific that means that they can generally only form a true pack with their own kind, They do create a loose pack type alliance with us and are integrated into our family unit, however that normally does not happen when dogs are not allowed indoors and are restricted to a kennelled area. These dogs do need the companionship and company of other dogs when in this situation. If we were to look at it in human terms, it would be equivalent of solitary confinement.

Possible Causes

Factors at the root of Separation Anxiety can include, genetics, insufficient early learning and handling, lack of socialisation and owner behaviour, sometimes we reinforce an overbonding relationship that causes the dog stress when we are not around. This type of dog will follow you everywhere and that includes the toilet. We can often exacerbate the problem by making a big scene when we leave. Was it Shakespeare that wrote, ?parting is such sweet sorrow, That I shall say good night till it be morrow?.?

Your dog is a social, pack animal that relies on others for individual protection, it finds safety in numbers, and will feel ostracised from the pack if not allowed to mix freely with its extended family, which includes humans and other dogs. In wolf packs, an individual that is forced to leave the pack will often die if it cannot join another pack. Often these dogs are males that have been usurped from the Alpha position or have challenged for top position and failed. Making it unlikely to be accepted into another pack and will be unable to hunt as effectively on its own.

Dogs retain vestigial wolf characteristics, is it therefore any wonder they feel anxious in when placed in these situations? Dogs that lack confidence, due to over bonding, under socialisation, or lack of training in basic obedience, mistreatment in the past, long confinements or dogs that have been abandoned or placed in rescue centres are most likely to exhibit behaviours relating to separation anxiety.

Solution and Treatment

?No long goodbyes

When it is time to leave, just leave. Do not say a big and drawn out Good bye to your dog. In fact, ignore your dog for five minutes before you go. Paying too much attention will make your dog feel more insecure when that attention is abruptly withdrawn. You may wish to use a herbal type anxiety reducer such as Dr Bach?s rescue remedy, you can get this in any good chemist 4 drops a day in their food, and a DAP diffuser you can get this from your Vets. It plugs in the wall socket and gives out calming pheromones. DAP means Dog Appeasing Pheromone, the clever little scientists have isolated the pheromone that the nursing mother gives out to calm the little pups when she is feeding them, and have created a chemical mimic These combined can help to take the edge of the anxiety. Always discuss any herbal or natural remedies or treatment with your Vet.

?Distractions are the key

Prepare a Good-Bye bone. These are hollow cheese or meat filled bones purchased from the pet shop, or it could be a Kong. When it is empty, fill it with grated cheese, peanut butter, or other things your dog really likes. You can even make up a thick soup type mixture, fill the hollow bones with these and freeze, put it away and only take it out when you leave each day. Place it near your dog just before you close the door. When you arrive back home put the bone away. The bone only comes out when you leave. when it gets low then poke out the contents and refill. You are distracting your dog with something that he will find interesting enough to concentrate on and will ignore your leaving, he should appreciate the bone so much that he will look forward to it coming out instead of getting upset with your leaving. You can also get puzzle type activity cubes or balls these are meant to be filled with dried kibble or treats, the dog has to manipulate these to get bits of treat out .Some are quite difficult to use giving the dog lots to work at rather than thinking about your departure. Once again, only give this to your dog when you are leaving and take away when you return.

?Crate Train

Confining your dog during your times of absence has two positive results. First, a dog who is confined crate cannot do damage to your home. Secondly, a crate, when properly introduced, will act as a safe and comfortable den where the dog can relax. Limiting his movement also acts as an anxiety reducer for most dogs. However, dogs should not be locked in crates for long periods maximum during the day should be 2/3 hours and certainly only on rare occasions not every day.

?Exercise Your Dog

A dog that is lacking exercise is more likely to have stress and tension. Tiring a dog out with a long walk, run or with play goes a long way in reducing stress and anxiety.

?Leave the Radio On

Tune a radio to a talk station; not music, put it on in a room you are often in but not in the same room as the dog, and close the door. I use LBC 97.3 as the preferred station though of course not everyone can receive this. The dog will hear the human voices from another room and may not feel so alone. Some owners tape record their own voices and play the recording rather than the radio program. Dogs know the sound of your voice. This need only be a couple of hours long.

?Build up a routine

The hardest time for dogs is immediately after you leave. Their anxious, frantic, and occasionally destructive behaviour generally happens inside the first hour. You need to modify your dog’s behaviour through reinforcement training and behavioural modification. Leave your dog either in or out of the crate; get ready to leave, put your coat on or whatever routine you have when you leave, walk out as normal, come back after one minute greet your dog calmly tell him to sit, when he does, reinforce the behaviour with a food treat he enjoys.

Wait a few minutes and then repeat the exercise, this time remaining outside a few minutes longer. Continue practicing leaving and returning over the next couple of weeks, This has the effect of desensitising you dog to your exits and it will not know the length of the separation.

?Leadership is Vital

When a dog has a strong consistent leader, it has a calming effect on him. He feels safe and taken care of. In the absence of a strong leader, your dog feels obligated to assume that position in the social hierarchy of the family pack. Since a leader must control all that goes on, his inability to control you leaving causes him stress and anxiety. They sometimes exhibit dominant behaviour to try to stop owners from leaving. Obedience training and * NILIF techniques is normally the best methods of establishing yourself as a beneficial and strong leader.

Consistency is the key. You are responsible for providing food and shelter. You also have the responsibility of supplying an environment whereby the dog feels safe and secure. Leadership plays a part. lack of consistency and over-bonding can be a cause and effect of separation anxiety, though it must be said other factors may also play their part. Sometimes you may need to get another dog for company and comfort for you existing pet, especially if the symptoms are severe. Sometimes you may have to rehome the dog, as your lifestyle does not allow for a happy and contented pet and in both your best interests, this should be considered.

The NILIF technique mentioned here will be in a future article called ?The Pushy Dog?.

Stan Rawlinson

Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.

Recall with the Gundog

With regard to training issues rather than behavioural problems, I am asked to correct recall more than any other problem, especially with working and gundog breeds. We are told that some breeds are un-trainable or that they can never be trusted off the lead. Beagles fall into this category, as do some of the Terrier breeds. I do not subscribe to this myth I believe all dogs can be trained but only up to their inbred ability

Instinct
Border Collies are supposed to be the most intelligent of all the breeds, but surely, intelligence is relative. I doubt if anyone could train a Collie to win a field trial championship or a Labrador to win One Man and His Dog.

The problems we see with some of the hunting retrieving breeds is that instinct takes over, that instinctual trait reduces some of the senses, the one that is often detuned or switched off is hearing.

We imagine our dogs can always hear us clearly, that it is selective deafness or stubbornness that is the cause of dogs ignoring recall commands. In actual fact genetics often takes over, without early counter conditioning we cannot cut through the desire to hunt to initiate the recall.

We also show this behaviour. Imagine you are watching a brilliant wildlife or shooting program, then someone starts talking about shopping, we hear the sounds but often do not understand the content. Our brain has detuned it out; we are not being rude or ignorant (though try telling the OH that,) the brain is genetically hard wired to react this way.

However if we were specifically trained to react to an audible cue/signal rather than words then we would shift our attention to the person emitting that signal much more readily.

I am sure we have all read the books or been told we should not start training our dogs until six months or in some cases a year; that is totally incorrect. Dogs learn more in the first 16 weeks than the rest of their life. It is at this time that dogs are at their most receptive, they soak up information and experiences like sponges.

Whistle Introductions
Often, we introduce whistle commands far too late in the puppies training cycle. Starting pups very young on the whistle for recall and the sit pays huge dividends, yet we often do not take this opportunity. Introduce the whistle as early as possible by associating exciting and pleasurable experiences very early on, even whilst still with the mother. Pups will readily respond to the recall whistle by seven or eight weeks old. I have seen litters of six-week-old pups scamper to the whistle in excitement.

When puppies associate experiences with the whistle in a positive manner, they will respond positively to their reward of affection, food, treats, or a game, always make the whistle something positive. The same is true of the sit. Pups can consistently comply with this whistle command by twelve weeks old. They will eagerly sit on the whistle when the reward is good and the commands are given consistently.

Start by preparing the dogs food and getting someone hold the pup 10 or 12 feet away blow your normal recall and get the helper to release the pup. Extend this by getting your helper to hold the pup in another room and repeating the process.

Allowing the puppy to become more mature before introducing the whistle is not conducive to a good recall response in later life. At six-month-old, pups pay little no heed to their owners recall commands, making the training more difficult. Likewise, once the pup has developed in basic training and is charging in hard on retrieves, whistle controls are much more difficult to introduce.

Early Reinforcement
Imagine that your dog?s brain is a CD. Written to that CD are the breeder and their family the mother, siblings and any other dogs the breeder has. Then you and your family There is nothing on that CD that says if he runs away; it will be far more interesting than staying with you. So leave off the extendable lead the dogs not going anywhere it will stick like glue to almost your every move. The first time you take your dog into the big wild world, which should be as early as possible, you should let him off. Make sure you pick a safe place without too many distractions or other dogs and their should be plenty of trees.

Now what is vitally important is that the dog gets a slight feeling of anxiety when he cannot see you. Move upwind, then whilst he is distracted, quickly hide behind something, like a tree or a fence, he will eventually look up and start to panic, allow this to happen for a short while, he will eventually run around and hopefully pick up your scent and find where you are hiding. When this happens, make a big fuss and give a treat.

If he does not find you fairly quickly blow your whistle and show yourself, praise and treat when he runs up to you, a valuable lesson will have been learned. He will not think you have hidden but will think you have gotten lost; this will instil the need to keep you in view at all times.

These initial reinforcements are critical, however if you want to use you dog to pick up in later life you can introduce the ethos of track and retrieve out of sight, but with tight recall when necessary.

Lead Work
Call your puppy to you and put the normal lead on three or four times during every walk, then he will not learn that the lead means end of walk ie end of fun. We have all seen the dogs that dance around 5/6 feet from their owners at the end of the walk, they have actually taught the dogs this frustrating habit by only ever putting the lead back on at the end of the walk.

Rectifying Recall Problems
If you are already having recall problems then you need to go back to basics you will need to initially practice the sit stay command at home.

To set this well the dog should be on a lead preferably 5 foot long with a Jingler ?see my website for this device? Get the dog to sit with the dog on your left side holding the lead in you left hand. Using the cupped palm of your right hand bring it to the dogs nose saying ?Stay? three times. Swivel in front of the dog so you are facing it pick up the loop of the lead but make sure you keep your left hand on the lead as well, this is your control hand, slowly back up to the length of the lead with the left hand about as third of the way back up the lead.

If your dog moves or tries to follow, lift the lead upwards with your left hand and say ?Stay?. This will activate the Jingler, Keep repeating until you think the dog has the message, then start dropping the lead and moving further backwards. If your dog starts moving, you have gone too far to fast, therefore shorten the distance again. Do this about three times a day for about five minutes per time.

Practice this till you can move 100 feet away without the dog moving then after a couple of days call your dog to you every third time, use either the Whistle, Come, Here or his name. Only treat the best stays and the best results.

Once you feel you have mastered this, it is time to use the lunge rein. Practice the sit stay in the park or field but this time with the 35 foot horse lunge rein; take a friend who will hold the dog whilst you hide behind a tree or fence then call the dog, when he finds you give him a favourite treat and repeat the exercise.

After a couple of days allow the dog to walk free but with the lunge rein still kept on dragging behind, keep standing on it at different lengths whilst issuing the recall command, so the dog thinks you are in control at all distances.

If the dog takes off after a bird or another dog; either stand on the lead or pick it up to stop the charge. The dog will get the message that you are in control and cease chasing after a while. During all of this work, we must give the dog lots of praise and treats. After a few weeks of keeping the lunge rein on you can reduce it down by putting on a normal lead then after a few more weeks remove it completely.

As always, the best strategy for training is to set your dog up to succeed and to not condition in a problem that will have to be rectified later on in the training.

Stan Rawlinson

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times.

He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers

There may come a time in your dog’s life when he will suffer from dog flu (medically known as the canine influenza virus). There are a few symptoms to watch out for:

Firstly there is the coughing. Most if not all dogs will suffer this, if not painful it will be very uncomfortable for your dog. Young puppies and older dogs will suffer from coughing a lot more than your average aged dog. The best thing to do at this stage is to make sure that he has plenty of fluids and that he doesn’t over work himself in the throat area, or he could start to feel really sorry for himself! The coughing tends to be worse during exercise or excitement, it tends to imitate kennel cough but the difference with dog flu is that the cough lasts a lot longer.

High fevers are another symptom to watch out for. Sometimes dogs can suffer temperatures up to 106 degrees so if you start to notice the coughing and the fever together make sure that you get him to the vets just to be on the safe side. Otherwise you could be looking at a bad bout of dog flu. The fever tends to make your dog dehydrated so again just make sure that he has lots of water and that you give him plenty of love as he will need it, feeling so poorly!

There are other general symptoms such as runny eyes and nose, which could simply be just a cold but its best to get it checked out especially if there are any other symptoms. Your dog may also suffer from some depression. He will be going through a tough and painful time so just make sure that he is as comfortable as possible and give him lots of cuddles. A bit of tender, love and care can go a long way!

Dog flu is highly contagious between other dogs. People are often worried about dog flu spreading to humans but there is no evidence of this whatsoever and there has been no claims of it either so that’s not something you have to worry about. Something you do have to worry about however is that if dog flu is left untreated then it may lead to Pneumonia. Dogs suffering from dog flu also have an 80% chance of infection which is why antibiotics are usually prescribed to help them fend it off, saving them a lot more pain and discomfort.

The incubation time for dog flu is around four weeks, after those few weeks are over and your dogs had a good treatment of antibiotics he should be feeling fit, happy and back to his normal self again.

Bert Gajda lives with one old stubborn border collie named Roxy and is an administrator of http://www.dogtwist.com

Do you find yourself among that rare breed of dog lover that your friends think have gone just too far in your love for your dogs? Read on and see if any of these dog lover traits sound all too familiar.

You circle the parking lot over and over trying to find that perfect spot for your pooch. You know the one I mean ? not too close to the construction or traffic, in lots of shade on a warm day, and by all means in plain view of the door so that he or she can see all the comings and goings. We wouldn?t want our dogs to be too bored or lonely while we?re in the market, gym or post office.

Even if it?s threatening rain, we take our dogs along, thinking we can always wipe out the soggy car later. It?s more important that our dogs get a chance to get out and about, even if it means open car windows on a rainy day.

We fluff up their bed just one more time, to make sure they?re comfy cozy during the night-time hours. And of course, if they should deem our bed more to their liking at 4:00 a.m., we?re happy to oblige with a scoot to the edge, braving cold toes or worse yet, a dangerous fall-off to the floor below.

If they ask to be in the bathroom with us during our morning shower, we?ll leave the door ajar should they feel an urgent need to leave, even if it means less privacy and a strikingly cold draft.

We plan our dinner outings around their eating habits, begging them to chow down early so that we can sit in comfort at a restaurant awaiting our entr?, awash in the peaceful fog of knowing they?re safe at home with full tummies.

We wouldn?t dream of keeping the TV too loud, the house too warm, or running low on dog cookies, treats and toys.

We announce our comings and goings explaining when we?ll be back, how long we?ll be gone and what we?ll bring them when we return.

All in all, we know what life would be like without our dogs, and we shudder to think of the possibility. Are you a member of this rare breed of dog lover? If you are, then join the ranks with the best of the best ? we can?t all be crazy, can we?

? Connie Bowen

Note: this article may be re-published freely as long as the following resource box is included at the end of the article and as long as you link to the URL mentioned in the resource box:

Pet Portrait Artist, and Professional Illustrator Connie Bowen creates stunning pet portrait paintings on canvas from photos. Specializing in capturing the spiritual nature of dogs, cats, horses and other animals in a realistic fashion with impressionistic backgrounds as seen on Oregon Public Broadcasting?s TV show, Art Beat. Over 200 pet portraits completed and counting!

Visit http://www.conniebowen.com to view exquisite samples.

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

More articles at www.articles-host.com

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

More articles at free articles database

Finding a Dog 101 – Dogs are fantastic companions, and love you no matter what, but remember:

? Dogs DO take time! Remember, just like us, they are social animals who do not like being left alone. You can’t just stick them out in the yard or leave them in the house alone all the time and expect everything to be all right. Many types of behavioral problems occur just as a result of this one thing. Do you honestly have ample time every day to spend walking, feeding, cleaning up after, grooming, exercising and playing with your dog? And dogs often live for ten to fifteen years, so enter into this as a seriously long-term commitment.

? Dogs DO cost money. There are food requirements which vary from dog to dog. They will need regular health care as well including: shots, wormings, check ups, etc. Some dog breeds will additionally need regular grooming. Puppies will damage things in your house from time to time – it’s a fact. Finding a dog may lead to things being replaced more often. You will have to do more cleaning from time to time – shedding fur, etc.

? Dogs DO require ample space which can vary from breed to breed. Take the time to research ALL the requirements needed for all breeds you may be interested in. Do you live in an apartment? A duplex/townhouse or condo? A single family home? Do you have a securely fenced yard or access to a securely fenced in area for your dog to play in? If not, can you seriously make some other kind of suitable and realistic arrangements for your dog to get adequate DAILY exercise? Finding a dog requires a lot of forethought and planning.

1) Be Honest. Finding a dog can take some time. First of all, do you really want a dog? Is a purebred dog perfect for you? Or would you be just as happy adopting a dog from the local animal shelter or rescue organization in your area?

2) So you still really want a dog even will all the needs listed above in mind

If you can honestly answer all these needs mentioned above with a positive response then you’re ready for step 2.

So now, you must now ask yourself:

Finding a Dog 101 – What breed of purebred dog do you want?

Research, research, research! Before selecting a purebred puppy breed you must first carefully consider many things about yourself and your family, such as: your exercise schedule, your own personality, your family and home situation, what you expect of your dog (watchdog, companion for your children, hunting, etc.), whether you live in a house with a fenced yard or in an apartment/duplex/condo, etc. You want to honestly match the dog’s needs to yours as closely as possible for the best match possible. Finding a dog takes plenty of forethought and research.

For example, if you’re athletically inclined, you don’t want a doggie couch potato – a dog that has low exercise needs. If you’re a couch potato yourself, you don’t want a purebred puppy that needs a lot of exercise.

? First, DO NOT decide on any dog breed based on looks alone. When finding a dog take your time and do lots of research BEFORE making any new kind of new doggie addition to your family. The eight major purebred dog groups found in the AKC in particular (Sporting, Hound, Working, Terrier, Toy, Non-Sporting, Herding and Miscellaneous) is a great place to start. Feel free to use the dog breed resources on our site as a good place to start as well. We offer many individual dog breed profiles including lots of indepth information on many kinds of purebred dog..

Finding a Dog 101 – Next: Selecting Your Dog. Do you want an adult or puppy?

Almost everyone wants a puppy. Puppies are lots of fun and can be easy to train and socialize, but they require a lot of time and care. Adult dogs often require less care overall than puppies but may have developed some types of behavioral or socialization problems during their life. If you are more inclined to get an adult dog, one good choice to start with is a rescue dog, possibly from a local shelter or rescue organization. There are many shelters and breed rescue groups available which can be visited on the internet, via the phone or in person depending on your area and finding a dog in one of these places can potentially mean saving it’s life. Sometimes these organizations may have puppies for adoption as well.

Finding a Dog 101 – Where is the best place to find a dog or puppy? ? First, consider adopting a dog from a shelter or purebred dog rescue organization. Way too many dogs are euthanized each year, and you might just find a dog – the perfect companion for you, at the local pound or through a rescue group for your favorite breed. And you saved a life in the process!

? Second, find a real breeder. A real breeder of purebred dogs usually belongs to a breed club for their specific dog breed as well as belonging to several other dog related organizations. Additionally, many purebred dog breeders may be involved in showing their own dogs or participating in other dog related activities as agility, lure coursing or herding events. Finding purebred dogs or purebred puppies here means you have a much better chance at learning abuot the dogs ancestors, breed health problems, littermates, seeing the actual living conditions the puppy was raised in, and have a resource for future questions and a new irend for the life of your new dog.

Other very important things to look for in a purebred dog breeder – do they: provide references; have a clean kennel with healthy, well-socialized animals; provide a pedigree and registration application form; give you written instructions on feeding, training and care; provide a written contract with conditions of sale and warranty; give you a record of vaccinations and wormings?

Are the breeders: interested in your qualifications to be an owner of one of their precious puppies (your home and family situation, etc); insistent that you take the purebred puppy to a vet for a check-up immediately after purchase; insistent that you continue with vaccinations and wormings on a regular basis; encouraging the relationship between you and the breeder as a continuing one; there for you on an on-call basis with ANY future questions or problems that you may have about you new puppy or dog?

Places to avoid when finding a dog:

? pet shop. These poor puppies are often poorly bred and raised in the most terrible living conditions. You’ll never get a chance to see the parents, littermates or the actual original home they were bred in and you will never know what kind of inherited health problems they have until way too late. Finding a dog here means a potential lifetime of health problems as well as the potential to carry on this awful practice of puppy milling by supporting the sellers of their animals.

? backyard breeders. Typically these are people who own a dog but are not knowledgeable at all in the details about the breed, inherent health problems and risks, history of their dogs (other than their papers), etc. and think it will be fun or maybe even profitable to have a litter of puppies. Any dog breeders who lets you handle a very young puppy, shows signs of neglect (such as lack of water, and dirty conditions) in their kennel, are willing to sell a puppy under seven weeks of age are not looking out for the puppies best interest. Leave and find a reputable breeder asap! Finding a dog here also means many potential problems and no real support for your new puppy in the future.

You can find conveniently located breeders in our breeders directory. Remember, it is up to you to check them out thoroughly BEFORE buying / adopting.

We suggest you take your time when searching for your new canine companion. Call breeders, visit their websites if possible, contact parent clubs for references for reputable breeders in your area. The more research you do BEFORE you bring your new companion home, the better off everyone, including the doggie new addition, will be.

Debbie Ray, owner of http://www.pedigreedpups.com, is a lifelong animal lover and dog enthusiast. Interested in more dog information? Training and health tips? Thinking about getting a purebred dog? Check out http://www.pedigreedpups.com or http://www.total-german-shepherd.com for more information.