Numerous individuals do not realize the value of caring for their dog’s teeth. As dogs age, the lack for dental distress increases. The best way to ensure proper dental condition for your dog is to start while they are very junior.

Many dogs do not like their mouths touched. It is important for you as a dog holder to desensitize them to being handled like this at a very young age. The veterinarian is always going to demand to examine your dog’s mouth and you do not crave to maintain painfulness with this. The best way for you to get your dog used to having his mouth touched is to begin touching it when you first get your pup. Make sure to handle the jaws, open the mouth, and touch the teeth in a peace and relaxing way for around five minutes each day until your pup is used to being handled in this way. Make this a accustomed part of your interaction alongside your dog so he remains calm when you are doing any kind of preventive dental distress.

Most veterinarians recommend brushing your dog’s teeth everyday. Many manufacturers build special toothpaste and brushes for dogs. You do not ever desire to use human toothpaste on dogs as it may be harmful to them. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, you may wish to start by putting a dab of dog toothpaste on a cotton ball and rubbing it over his teeth. Toothpaste for dogs is most often quite tasty to them, so he shouldn’t mind this. You can then try a finger brush, accessible at your veterinarian’s office or pet supply store. Finally, specially for larger breeds, you liking want to graduate to a regular dog toothbrush. Regular brushing will help prohibit the buildup of calculus and debris on your dog’s teeth.

Supplemental way to help prevent calculus and buildup on your dog’s teeth is by using rawhide chews expressly formulated for dental distress. Many companies make these chews. One of the best available is by C.E.T. Most veterinarians carry C.E.T. dental form products. C.E.T. chews are formulated near an enzyme that helps hold plaque from forming and prevents the buildup of bacteria. Also, the routine abrasion of rawhide chews helps keep teeth sturdy. C.E.T. resources makes a chew that contains chlorhexadine which has antimicrobial properties.

Sundry companies also put together special dental health food, which may be recommended to you by your veterinarian to help prevent dental problems.

Even with proper preventive preparations, most dogs will eventually need a dental cleanse from your veterinarian. If your veterinarian recommends a dental clean, it is important that you obey through. If your dog develops dental disease, harmful bacteria can pass through below the bloodstream causing potentially serious problems such as kidney infections and infections involving the heart valves.

A dental clean performed by your veterinarian is greatly like a human dental scrub, but your dog will need to be sedated. The anesthesia is light and with late technology is extremely safe. Many veterinarians have anesthesia monitoring systems just like those used in human prescription. A total exam liking be performed to determine if any teeth need to be pulled or repaired. Some veterinarians purpose do x-rays of the teeth to turn up any cracks or out of sorts teeth. In support of this, a trained associate of the veterinary staff desire effect a dental cleaning. First, they will scale the teeth to cast off the tartar above and lower down the gum line. This will be finished with both hand apparatus and ultrasonic scaling furnishings. After this, the teeth will be polished, which will make them smooth and help prevent medallion from complying to them. Most veterinarians will also do a fluoride Often.

This is to help strengthen the enamel and prevent plaque from forming. If any teeth are diseased or pulverized, your veterinarian may drag them. Some veterinarians who specialize in dental anguish will perform root canals and other intensified dental travail. Most veterinarians will put your dog on a treatment of antibiotics to help prevent bacterial infection.

It is very important to seize admissible care of your dog’s teeth to keep them sturdy and to prevent infections. Usually follow your veterinarian’s admonition and if you have further questions, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

For great dog health care tips or dog treat recipes visit Justin Bryce at http://www.dog-health-care.com.au

What can you do to improve the health of your dog, its coat, and its skin that is cheap and effective? Grooming that’s what! The small investment of time and money involved for grooming can yield numerous benefits for your dog’s health!

Is your dog’s coat looking dull, tatty and matted? Is your dog’s sad looking coat causing you to worry about his/her overall health? Sometimes the simple things can often provide very effective benefits, and in the case of the health of your dog, grooming is one of these simple measures that can yield big results.

Dog health and grooming go hand in hand as the act of grooming has numerous benefits that can help prevent many dog health problems before they arise. Like humans, regular grooming and attention to changes in the skin, eyes, and teeth can help maintain health and prolong the life of your pet, as many indications of possible health problems are noticed and addressed before they progress to something more sinister.

Health Benefits of Grooming

• Grooming removes dead hair leaving only the healthy hair behind, which immediately looks better. It also lets air circulate through the coat better reducing any odor, keeps the dog cooler, and looks cleaner. It is also a good idea to bath your dog regularly with a quality dog shampoo to further improve the benefits of general grooming.
• Grooming stimulates blood flow, which in turn improves blood supply to the hair follicles working wonders for the health of the overall coat.
• Grooming also stimulates the lymphatic system, thus having a positive affect on the dog’s overall health in the same way that a massage does for humans.

Residual Benefits of Grooming Aside from the more obvious physical health benefits of grooming there are other benefits such as: -

• Bonding with your Dog – While grooming your dog you are helping to create a bond between you and your pet because of the physical touching and interaction. This also has a positive effect on the dog’s emotional state as it feels more comfortable and safe in your hands. Dogs always love the attention they get during grooming.
• Knowing your pet – While grooming your dog you get to know your pet better and know what he/she likes or dislikes, and its favorite and least favorite places to be touched or brushed. Knowing your pet will help you to notice any changes that may indicate a health problem, for instance if your dog suddenly flinches when touched in an area where it usually loves to be touched would alert you to investigate the cause of the tenderness.
• Spot Possible Health Dangers – While grooming your dog you can check the skin for possible skin rashes and problems like hair loss or lumps. Also check for signs that your dog has been scratching a certain area of the skin which would indicate some sort of irritation such as worms, fleas, mites or ticks. Ticks in particular can be deadly if left undetected and a thorough visual check of the dog?s skin should be a regular part of your dog health and grooming strategy. It is a good idea to check the eyes for any signs of sight or health problems while grooming your dog. Also check the pads and nails of the paws for problems that may require attention along with the teeth for signs of decay or gum problems.

Possible Bonus Benefit for you

If you find that you enjoy grooming and become quite competent, you may consider starting your own dog grooming service to make a few extra dollars or perhaps turn it into a full time business. Dog grooming services are in high demand and can be very profitable. There is nothing better than making a living doing something that you enjoy.

What You Need to Start?

It is important to get the right grooming tools and information on grooming techniques. The internet has is a wealth of information about grooming along with numerous sites that sell a range of grooming tools. Other sources are local pet supply stores or alternatively most towns and cities have a local dog association where dog lovers can meet and exchange ideas. Public libraries may also have books on dog grooming.

The benefits to your dog?s health by regular grooming far outweigh the small outlay of money for the grooming tools, and time spent grooming. Your dog’s coat will look shiny and healthy and the health of your dog’s skin will also be improved. Spend a little time on your pet and he/she will love you for it.

Colin L Wolfenden is webmaster for http://www.my-resource.com and http://www.impressiveebooks.com.

Why The Food You Give Your Dog Matters!

If you’re like most dog owners, you probably assume that commerical dog foods with brand names that are easily identifiable – Purina, Iams, Pedigree, etc. – must be good for your pets, right? After all, millions of pet owners buy them and feed them to their beloved pets, and surely they wouldn’t all give their dogs something harmful. Unfortunately, this may just be the case.

Now, before I get any further along, let me make it clear that I am not a veterinarian. I do, however, have a science background and education, and I’ve had more dogs in my care in one year than most people will have in a lifetime. As an observant and naturally curious person, I’ve paid close attention in the past 20 years to the general health of my pets and those I’ve had in my care through a rescue shelter I was involved with for several of those years. I’ve also picked the brains of several top vets in my state in my quest to get to the heart of the matter concerning the best dog diet.

What has become abundantly clear is that one type of diet stands well above all others in terms of fostering good health and long life. More on that later…

I’ve seen dogs fed commercial foods, both wet and dry, from the cheapest brands to the so-called premium brands. I’ve also seen dogs who were fed vegan or vegetarian diets, as well as those fed raw meat and bones (known popularly as the BARF Diet). While individual dogs will do just fine on any of these widely divergent diets, what I’ve looked for are general trends in population subsets. How do these 10 dogs fare in their lifetimes when they eat cheap kibble every day? How about those 12 dogs who are getting a vegetarian diet all the time? And what happens to those 25 dogs who are being given a raw meat and bones diet? These are the types of questions I’ve asked as I’ve dealt with large numbers of dogs and their owners or keepers over the years.

These have in no way been controlled experiments, and I would never attempt to pass them off as authoritative or as adhering to any strict interpretation of the scientific method. In other words, take my conclusions with a large grain of salt. I’m really just out to get the wheels turning in the minds of all dog lovers who read these words.

After all of this careful observation and tracking, clear patterns have emerged time and time again…

Dogs that eat commercial kibble or wet food have lots of health problems later in life and tend to die youngest. This is even true when they’ve been fed premium dog foods, sadly.

Dogs that are fed vegetarian diets do better, but must be given large amounts of alternative protein sources to make up for the lack of it in standard vegetarian fare. A purely vegetarian diet is difficult to provide that will satisfy a canine’s basic nutritional needs, but it is healthier and leads to slightly longer lifespans than any commercial brand diet.

Without any doubt (based on what I’ve seen over many years and hundreds of dogs), the best possible diet to feed your dogs is raw meat and bones with an occasional slop made up of vegetables, fruits, and organ meat. I’ve seen clear and compelling evidence that this diet leads to three amazing results: much better overall health, excellent dental health, and longer lifespans.

Countless times, I’ve seen dogs with repeating, nagging health issues (obesity, allergies, etc.) turn completely around on a raw meat and bones diet. And it doesn’t take long to see how much whiter and cleaner their teeth become. This is actually very important (dental health), because a growing number of vets suspect a link between the bacteria produced by poor dental hygiene and internal complications as dogs age. Because dogs have to crunch through raw chicken, beef, or pork bones daily, they get and keep very clean teeth in short order.

It still amazes me to hear the feedback from a dog owner who has converted to the raw meat and bones diet. Virtually without fail, they all become true believers. In some cases, the improvement in their dogs is nothing short of startling.

A common fear voiced by many owners is the worry over the bones getting caught in their dog’s throat or splintering and cutting them internally. This is a common misconception that actually does apply to COOKED bones. Never give your dog a cooked bone (especially chicken bones)! Raw bones, however, are no more of a threat than any other mouthful of food your dog chews. I have yet to deal with even one case of a dog on this diet having any kind of serious problem with the bones (out of hundreds).

Yes, handling raw meat and bones requires a commitment many are uncomfortable with. You have to get over the ‘yuckiness’ and embrace the benefits to your dogs! Another issue is finding a good source of affordable products. It’s a good idea to locate a chicken processing plant nearby. They will often sell chicken cages (breast bones and related parts). Chicken cages are ideal because they provide a good balance of meat and bone – not too much of either in proportion to the other.

However, you should not always feed chicken. Mix things up to vary their protein sources a bit. Get some pork and some beef now and then to keep things lively and to provide your dogs with important nutrional elements that the chicken alone probably isn’t providing. And don’t forget to mix up a slop of green veggies, carrots, apples, bananas, and some raw livers or hearts at least twice a month. [*Note: have your pet checked for allergic reactions to any of those ingredients before trying this for the first time. Adjust accordingly.

This is the main idea behind the success of the raw meat and bones diet: it comes closest to simulating the exact types of foods dogs ate all during their evolution. Think about it. Did dogs eat processed commercial food from bags or cans? Did they grow and harvest vegetables, fruits, and grains? Did they dine on cooked meats? Of course not! They evolved eating prey the pack took down and scavenging the carcasses of former kills. All raw!

You might be wondering, given this evolutionary perspective, why I’m suggesting that you prepare and feed a veggie-fruit slop every now and then. Good question! It’s a bit unsettling to ponder, but consider the state of the prey (or dead bodies) that dogs ate all those years they were evolving. The animals they ate also ate, and more often than not, that meant their stomachs contained undigested vegetables, fruits, and other plant matter. The dogs dining on them didn’t ignore that stuff – it got eaten along with everything else that could be stripped from the body.

So you see, this diet works because it mimics what dogs naturally fed on for tens of thousands of years. It really is that simple. There’s nothing deep or esoteric about it at all.

Just try it. Take this challenge: give your dogs a raw meat and bones diet for 60 days. Try to find a meat and bones source that is close to a 50/50 meat-bone ratio (chicken breast cages from a processing plant are great, but you can also try pork necks or beef ribs from any grocery store). If you go the pork or beef route, give your pet plenty of time to wear down the raw bones. Chicken bones are soft and easily chewed up, but pork and beef bones take much longer. If you don’t see any noticeable improvements – healthier coat, more energy, better teeth, excellent blood work-ups – go back to his former diet.

If you do take the challenge, I’m betting you’ll be fairly amazed and continue. About 90% of those I know who’ve tried it stick with it. Give it 60 days. Isn’t a healthier, happier dog who lives longer worth it?

? John Schwartz http://www.puppies-dogs-supplies.com (all rights reserved)

John Schwartz has written extensively about dog health issues, safe dog toys, and humane dog training practices. He is a passionate advocate for ethical dog adoptions and promotes spay and neuter education. His website can be found at http://www.puppies-dogs-supplies.com

Now that your dog has mastered all of the necessary commands to be well behaved, it’s time to have some real fun! It’s easier to teach your dog tricks once he’s learned how to respect you and you’ve earned his trust. Those necessary commands help him to do that.

Try these tricks to entertain both of you!

1. Fetch. It’s no fun to play ball with a person or an animal that won’t give the ball back. Teaching your dog how to fetch will make you both wish playtime would never end.

If your dog is a retriever, you’re ahead of the game. Your dog is hard-wired to want to fetch. But other breeds catch on quickly, too. You just have to be more patient and consistent. Train with your dog just a few minutes a day to be the most effective.

To teach your dog to fetch, you need a retrieving training tool called a dumbbell. You can buy it at the pet store. It will be a wooden or plastic tube with flanges on both ends to keep it from falling out of your dog’s mouth. Be sure to buy one that your dog can pick up easily and one that will allow him to close his mouth around the middle, not the flared edges.

You start training a dog to fetch by teaching him to open his mouth. Say Take it and offer him a food treat. Once he starts opening his mouth in expectation when he hears you say, Take it, slip the dumbbell inside his mouth. Leave the dumbbell there for a second, then praise him and give him a treat. Try this about four times, and then stop. Do this part of the training for a few days until your dog gets used to having the dumbbell in his mouth.

Now, start putting the dumbbell in your dog’s mouth and command, Hold it. Gently hold his mouth around the dumbbell for a few seconds. Then say, Give, and let him spit the dumbbell out. Be sure to praise him and give him a treat. Do this exercise for a few days until your pet will hold the dumbbell in his mouth.

Next, hold the dumbbell in front of your dog’s mouth and command, Take it. Pull his head toward the dumbbell if you have to. Be sure to praise and give him a treat, even if he just moves his head toward the dumbbell. Practice this until he’s used to taking the dumbbell in his mouth. All you have to do now is increase the distance slowly. Continue working on Hold it, and Give. It might be a good refresher course for Come, too. Before too long, your dog will put it all together!

2. Speak. This is usually a simple trick for your dog to learn if he’s vocal already. The trick is to entice him to do it on command and from distances.

First, choose a hand signal – some trainers make a twisting motion with a closed fist; others open and shut their hand using their fingers and thumb. Using your hand signal, command your dog to speak. When he barks, reward him and praise him. If your dog doesn’t bark automatically, continue to give the command until he gets frustrated and barks, then quickly reward him. Keep practicing and he’ll soon understand.

3. Shake hands or Gimme five. This is perhaps the easiest trick to teach your dog. Give your dog the Sit command. While you gently hold his paw with one hand, say Gimme five and hand him a treat with your other hand. You shouldn’t have to do this more than a few times for your dog to get the hang of it.

4. Give me a kiss. This is another easy one. Most dogs will kiss you whether you want them to or not! All you have to do is get them to do it on your terms. Command your dog, Give me a kiss, and then put your cheek in front of his mouth. When he licks your cheek, praise him and give him a treat.

5. Roll over. Start by giving your dog the Down command. Kneel beside him and gently roll him over on his side and command, Roll over. Keep rolling him until he’s upright again, and then give him praise and a treat.

A couple of caveats about this trick:

- Don’t keep trying it if it’s obvious your pet doesn’t like being on his back. Some dogs have stronger backs than others, and if you are successful in teaching your dog to roll over, it’s probably a trick you want to retire when he’s middle aged. Most elderly dogs have back and hip pain, and there’s no point in making your pet suffer.

- Be sure to only perform this trick on grass or carpet. Asking your dog to roll over continuously on a hard surface could hurt him.

6. Play dead. This trick produces gales from laughter from school-age boys, so if you have one of those, you might want to get him involved with training the dog on this one. A good time to practice this trick is you’re your dog has just exercised and is ready to rest. There’s a prerequisite, too – your dog must know the Down command.

Give your dog the Down command and notice what side he’s leaning on. Gently push him on over as you command, Bang. As he rolls over, praise him and rub his tummy. Repeat until you don’t have to use pressure to force him to roll to his side. Use the Stay command to stay dead. Add the hand signal, a pointing forefinger, as you command the Bang.

Most Important Is that you have fun with your dog. A happy dog will always be the dog that responds to your every command. Have a fun day with your dog!

Marilyn Burnham

Author: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90′s. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

By the time you have your dog its behavior will have already been greatly influenced by his mother and his siblings.

Here?s an example: If his mother barked to attract some attention, her puppies will probably behave in the exact same way. The experiences that occur between three and twelve weeks of age are crucial in the development of a dog?s personality.

The best time to get a puppy is when it is about eight weeks old. By making sure that it has as much varied experience as possible during the month that follows, you will lay the groundwork for easier, more productive, and rewarding training.

Meeting New People
You need to make sure that your new puppy meets as many different people as possible while it is still young. If you can, take him to work, take him out in the car, and take him to your friend?s homes whenever possible. Let the puppy play with dogs that you know are healthy, and introduce it to children and other adults.

Personal Investigation
Playing with toys will provide the puppy with mental and physical stimulation. Find out which toys the puppy likes (they often have favorites), but you need to make sure that the toys are unlike other domestic items, such as shoes. You can use his favorite toy as a reward during training.

Play Constructively
You can play active games with your puppy, but you need to make sure that it is you who is in control and ?dominant? in the puppies eyes. While you play, watch the puppy?s behavior, and if it is about to sit, issue the ?Sit? command. This gives the puppy some early association with basic commands and what they mean.

Give Immediate Rewards
When the puppy obeys a command, you should offer an immediate reward, such as stroking or praise with words. Remember: You?re the dominant member of the pack, which means you should always be in control.

Early Habits Can Last A Life-Time
If you carry a puppy constantly when it is very young, it will expect similar treatment when it feels insecure as an adult. Bear this in mind.

Give Mental Stimulation
Puppies that are actively stimulated between the age of three and twelve weeks grow into adults that are good at both learning and problem solving. A puppy learns best by observing its mother?s behavior.

Understanding Fear
You must try to keep an eye on all of your puppy?s activities, to ensure that any frightening situations he may encounter are kept to a minimum. Fears learned at an early age can become lifelong phobias unless they are overcome with training.

Gatherings
All dogs must learn to behave properly, both with their own species and with others, especially people. This isn?t always an easy task, so the best time for them to learn is when they are still very young ? less than four months old is best.

When it?s possible, make sure that the puppy meets other species such as cat?s horses when it is very young.

Here?s why: Early socialization to other species reduces the likelihood of future problems. With the advice of your vet or local dog training club, it?s a good idea to participate in supervised weekly puppy evenings. At these gatherings, puppies learn how to respond to other dogs and to strangers in a controlled way.

Social Deprivation
Dogs that lack early social experiences can sometimes become more difficult to train. Restricted contact with people when the puppy is young can cause limitations in the dog?s ability to obey commands.

Before getting a dog, find out as much as possible about its early experience. The more a puppy has been handled while young, the more likely it is to respond well to obedience training.

Puppies raised with hardly any contact with people can be very difficult to train for the average person without the help of a professional dog trainer. So remember to ask questions about the puppies experience with being handled.

Learn about dog training here: dog training

Dear friends of mine have an adorable 10-month Old English Sheepdog who loves to jump up on houseguests. My friends tolerated this habit until the dog jumped on a 78-year-old woman and slammed her against the wall.

Fortunately, she was only shaken up, but it convinced my friends to ask for help. Here are the tips I gave them.

1. Try to stay calm yourself

When the doorbell rings, don’t leap up or let your children start running to the door. Keep the family calm and walk to the door in a relaxed manner.

2. Prepare visitors

Most people finding a puppy jumping up on them are going to say good boy and start petting him. Ask them instead to turn their back to the dog and ignore him. Only acknowledge him when he responds to his owner’s command to sit. Then praise him or give him a treat.

3. Use a short lead

I don’t like a leash on a collar for small dogs but put him in a body harness attached to a leash when you’re expecting company. Make him sit behind you while you answer the door. Step on the leash if he tries to move ahead of you or jump on your guest.

4. Control yourself and your family

The most effective tool I’ve found to stop jumpers is to turn your back on them. Teach your children this as well.

If you or your child are in a position you can’t do this, make fists with both hands, cross your arms over your chest and look up. Do not make eye contact with the dog or talk to him.

Dogs, the social pack animal they are, crave our attention and withholding it is the best correction we can give them.

Note ? some goofy advice is still out there to try to knee a dog when he jumps up. This can be harmful and furthermore, for a small dog that is only 4 to 6 inches off the floor, it isn’t even feasible.

Remember ? withholding attention is the best correction. Be consistent in your training and soon Fido will keep all paws on the floor.

Louise Louis is a certified canine specialist and creator of the popular website on small dogs, http://www.ToyBreeds.com

Distemper: Spotting This Dog Killer Before it’s Too Late

Canine distemper is a devastating disease. It often crops up in seemingly healthy pets without any warning. What?s more, distemper often mimics benign problems, like the common cold. This is truly the most insidious aspect of this illness. Sadly, many cases progress to the point where they are no longer treatable before the owner even realizes what’s happened.

How to spot the early signs of distemper

First and foremost, understand that distemper can often be diagnosed very early if regular trips to the veterinarian are scheduled and kept. This cannot be stressed enough, especially for new puppies! Because afflictions like distemper most often strike very young pups when they have weaker immune systems, it?s crucial that owners visit the vet often in the first few weeks of life. Early diagnosis means a chance to survive distemper.

Owners who suspect distemper, but haven?t had the animal seen by a vet yet, can detect it by a couple of signs. First, yellowish-green or dark green discharge from the eyes and nose is a classic symptom. It?s often accompanied by sneezing and general lethargy. Unfortunately, many pet owners assume this is just a sign that their dog has contracted a cold or has allergies and they ignore it.

If you remember nothing else about what you read here, remember this: any greenish discharge from the eyes or nose means distemper is a real possibility. RUSH your pet to the vet at the first sign! In most distemper cases, the only chance your puppy or dog has is early detection and aggressive medical therapy.

While distemper can manifest differently from one dog to the next, another hallmark of it is constant shaking or twitching. This happens in the more advanced stages of the disease, when the infected dog’s neurological system has been compromised and muscles fire continuously. Unfortunately, by this stage it?s rarely treatable and the humane step is euthanasia. Having said that, always get your pet checked out thoroughly to rule out some other condition that may be causing the tremors. You never know. Dogs are like people, in that they are susceptible to a wide range of illnesses and diseases that can share very similar symptoms. Never assume!

It isn?t easy for pet owners to prevent diseases as serious as distemper. It’s infamous for sneaking up on otherwise healthy puppies. But starting a new puppy out right – with good nutrition and regular visits to the vet for vaccinations and check-ups – will go a long way toward keeping him healthy and disease-free. Know and watch for the signs of distemper and your dog will have a strong ally in you!

? John Schwartz http://www.puppies-dogs-supplies.com (all rights reserved)

John Schwartz is a web site publisher and professional writer. For more information about dog toys and other dog supplies, visit his site at Puppies-Dogs-Supplies.com today.

Some over-the-counter medications can be used for emergencies in select situations. Always ask your vet before giving any over-the-counter medicines to your injured or ill shih tzu.

3% hydrogen peroxide: Can be used to induce vomiting and for general wound cleaning. Dosage is: 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight.

Syrup of ipecac: Can be used to induce vomiting. Dosage is: 1 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight.

Bismuth subsalicylate: Can be used for vomiting and mild diarrhea. Dosage: 1 teaspoon per 15 pounds of body weight. 1 tablet per 40 pounds of body weight (doubt your shih tzu will be taking a full tablet!)

Kaolin-pectin: Use for mild diarrhea. Dosage: 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight.

Buffered aspirin: Use for fever and inflammation, mild to moderate pain, arthritis, before giving vaccinations. Dosage: 1 adult table (5 grains) per 40 pounds). Ask your vet the correct dosage for your shih tzu.

Diphenhydramine: Use for mild cough, allergies, allergic reactions. Dosage: 1 milligram per pound of body weight.

Vegetable oil: Use for constipation. Dosage: 1 teaspoon per 5 pounds mixed in food.

Epsom salts: Use for constipation, as a soak to reduce swelling and inflammation. Dosage: For constipation, 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight, dissolved in water and given orally; same dilution for soaks.

Milk of magnesia: Use for vomiting, constipation, deactivate poisons. Dosage: 2 teaspoons per 10 pounds of body weight.

Activated charcoal: Use to deactivate poisons. Dosage: 1/2 gram per pound of body weight.

Petroleum jelly: Use for constipation. Dosage: 1/2 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Weekly updates of available puppies. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Introduction

Your dog?s health and wellbeing is important to you and your family. Not to mention keeping down the cost of veterinarian bills! So you need to carefully consider the food that you give your dog. People sometimes just pick the first dog food bag they see at the store. It?s easy to overlook the importance of dog food but it is essential to pick the right one for your dog.

To keep your dog healthy he needs plenty of fresh water and should be fed good quality dog food in amounts just right to meet his energy requirements. Always follow the guidelines on the dog food package for recommended feeding amounts.

Picking a dog food

The first challenge in choosing a dog food is picking one that has overall quality. The term that comes up a lot about dog food is human grade. Human grade implies that the dog food is good enough for us to eat. Many commercial dog foods are made from materials unusable or less desirable for human consumption. Often the meat that is used in dog food is of a quality considered unfit for humans to eat.

Major dog food companies try to provide balanced proportions of vitamins and minerals for maximum benefit to your dog. Although you may see that many brands of dog food have almost identical labels, a reputable dog food company will provide an explanation for each supplement and how it benefits your dog.

Always read the label to see what proteins, vitamins and minerals are being provided to your dog. Try not to use store brand dog food they may short change your dog on much needed nutrition.

Studies have shown that the primary ingredient in dog food should be meat-based protein, not corn meal, flour or corn gluten meal. According to reviews a better quality dog food results in a healthier coat, fewer digestive problems and firmer stools. Pet-nutrition experts agree that the best dog food is made from human-grade ingredients like meat, whole grains and vegetables. Premium dog food is so important because good nutrition is essential for a long, healthy life.

Types of dog food

There are many varieties of dog food to choose from. The three most popular types of dog foods are dry, semi-moist and canned products. Check the color of your dog food. Usually dog food made from natural ingredients will have soft earth tones and contain no preservatives, artificial colors and flavors.

Raw dog food is becoming more popular. More and more veterinarians recommend feeding your dog with raw dog food. They feel that this is the best choice and is the healthiest food for your dog. After all, you’ve never seen your dog enjoy commercial dog food the way he enjoys a good meaty bone.

Raw food advocates concede the diet costs more than traditional dog food, but they argue it’s worth it. You may find that locating free natural home made dog food recipes is not easy. Try making a mixture of ground turkey, rice and carrot as your own dog food. Your dog will thank you for it.

If you decide to go the commercial route, try and choose a good premium dog food since it contains more energy and protein than an economy brand. Unfortunately not all dog food brands contain high quality and natural ingredients, so always check the label. It is best if you seek advice from your veterinarian before deciding on which dog food to feed your dog or puppy. He will know your dog?s dietary needs and you will find that veterinary offices and feed stores often carry excellent and natural dog food.

All Natural Dog Food

Many natural dog foods contain only fresh, natural and wholesome ingredients for your dog. Not only are the protein ingredients digestible, but the carbohydrates in the dog food are digestible. Natural dog food has 100% nutritional value which is important for healthy strong dogs. Chicken, egg and fish are examples of protein that is provided in natural dog food. There are also ingredients in natural dog food that really help the health of your dog?s skin and also your dog?s coat. One of the main draw backs of natural dog food is that it has a shorter shelf life and may spoil before it is used.

Dried Dog Food

A good high quality dry dog food will work out to be more economical than the generic brands even though they cost more per pound. A vast majority of dog owners go for dry dog food for its convenience and ease of storage. The cheaper dry dog foods are made from soybean, corn or rice, while many premium dry dog foods are made with all-natural, human-grade ingredients.

Vegetarian dog foods

There are dog foods specially formulated for dogs that are allergic to wheat, corn, and/or chicken. There are also vegetarian dog foods marketed to owners who do not want their dogs to consume meat products. Most vegetarian dog foods use soy as a protein source. If your dog has allergies consult your vet before putting him on a specialized diet.

Conclusion

Overall it’s usually best to let dogs enjoy dog food and not our food, even though they may prefer what we’re eating! Of course you can feed your dog treats from time to time, every dog needs some TLC from time to time!

David Amos is a dog lover and long time dog owner. Click for more articles and resources on Dogs and Dog Food

There?s a hole in your life that only a dog can fill. You want a special dog, perhaps just a full-grown adult. Maybe your code of ethics calls for saving a dog?s life ? not buying an expensive purebred.

I?m not a veterinarian or a dog trainer, but I?ve enjoyed two successful adoptions. Here are some tips I?ve picked up along the way.

(1) Clarify your requirements ahead of time.

Once you?re standing in front of a cage, it?s easy to say, ?Well, he?s a lot bigger than I expected, and I really wanted a female, but oh he?s SO cute!? No amount of love or training will help if your dog needs more exercise than you can provide.

(2) Know the difference between shelter and rescue groups.

Most cities have humane societies where you can view dogs and make a choice. Rescue groups typically hold animals in foster care ? which is good, because you can ask the foster mom all sorts of questions. For example, they can say, ?This dog lived with two cats so you know you can trust her.?

(3) Be prepared to pay.

Shelter animals are not free, but you do get value for money. Expect to pay a fee that may include spay/neuter costs, licensing, and/or veterinarian visits.

(4) Consider an older dog.

By the time a dog has turned three or four, she?s as big as she?s going to get. No surprises! You?ll also have clues regarding his temperament.

(5) Plan to confine the dog during a period of transition.

Your new dog doesn?t get it. She was in a loving home (or left alone in a yard all day or even abused). Then she spent a few weeks in a cage, feeling lonely and isolated. Maybe she?s been passed around to multiple homes.

Bottom line, she?s stressed. She may chew, dig, bark, or even lose her house training at first.

Crating the dog prevents destructive behavior. My dogs both looked visibly relieved as they retreated to their crates every day. ?Time to relax,? they seemed to say.

(6) Invest in training.

Most dogs are turned over to the shelter because of behavior problems. If you?re new to the world of dog behavior, take a class or hire a professional. Most behavior can be corrected, even among older dogs. But if you?re not sure, ask a professional. Some behaviors can?t be ?fixed.?

(7) Incorporate large doses of exercise and walks into your day.

Walking together builds your bond and a tired dog is a good dog. Begin the exercise program immediately so you can gain a sense of how much exercise the dog needs ? an important factor in the dog?s adjustment ? and start training for the basics on the way home from the shelter.

Dog Fanatic Cathy Goodwin wrote Arf! Dog Health Comes Home: Tips and resources to care for your sick, injured and senior dogs. Download your copy at http://www.dog-health.org