You want to start a pet, but you have no idea what to think really. You can take a decision of confusion, especially now when we are faced with many options for pets. Why choose one over the other? Why, for example, for a freshwater aquarium with a cat or a dog?

Before taking any decision, it is important to recognize that each type of animal care and attention is required on your part – are a bit 'like children in thisSense. You must feed, clean, and make sure that their environment allows them to thrive. This should not be discouraged – if you master even the basics, is a bit 'routine and will be easier and more fun and more with time.

Well, why you should choose a freshwater aquarium. If you're wondering what are the benefits of a freshwater aquarium, I give you my experience over the years of ownership and pet fish regularly. They are domestic animals, in agreementare allowed but with a difference:

1. For starters, for those who want to learn more about the environment, an aquarium is a perfect place to start. create a very stable environment for the fish, you have the mechanics to understand how they live. You have to learn what they eat, how you leave that to ensure that the tank environment is certainly necessary and also that which can poison them and kill them. If you get in this "science", you will find it a bit 'more demanding than a dog or a cat. A dog or cat home with good food, water, exercise and occasional visits des If there is a loving family environment, even less pressure, because they are very social creatures. With a freshwater aquarium, you will see that playing all of these things does not matter but you need to understand what the fish live and live well.

2. Fish, unlike the normal pets are much cheaper. AllAway from the set-up for maintenance, you will notice that you spent a lot less, especially if you buy a ready-tank – these are usually a bit 'more expensive. If you've done with the set-up, the only thing you have to do regular water changes and cleaning the tank. Each day a handful of fish food is all it takes to be happy. A cat or a dog, on the other hand, have expensive habits, their food costs more, they need expensive shotsand is usually in an effort to pop or 2 if he did not expect. Even if you leave the house, and have them as part of another child-care leave, the new keeper has to make time for them because they need exercise and a normal conversation. The fish, all you need to check the vital signs of the tank and throw in some foods.

3. Learn about the different types of animals with the same ease of doing, like it was just the only one. Many species of fish can coexist peacefully in afreshwater aquarium at no additional cost. Attempting the same with cats or dogs could be a lot of commitment, cleaning and patience on your part.

These are the 3 reasons why I had a dog, select a freshwater aquarium or a cat. Hamsters also can not be compared – they worry even more. Fish are also quiet, relaxed performance that does not require much attention – you can always relax after a long day, getting your fish. I can hear youask whether the game, so do they. Take some fish and throw it in the tank and see how they eat. You can do it for hours. And they play with each other, that illuminates the tank more or less!

Just as trees, flowers and plants help our environment, add a food source and make our landscapes beautiful so too do aquatic plants provide the same for your aquarium.

Just like us fish like to have areas where they can swim around and nibble at, but plant life in the aquarium plays a much greater part in the aquatic environment.

Toxins in the water created by rotting food and fish excrement pollute and starve the water of vital oxygen. Remembering that the fish breathe water through their gills we know that it is vital to keep oxygen levels up in the tank. Aquatic plants will help the process and uses the phosphate created in the nitrogen cycle to help them grow.

So what is the nitrogen cycle? Just like on land the leaves, plant life and animal droppings rot and mulch down into a fertiliser. Plant roots take the fertiliser and use it as a feed. In the aquarium rotting foods, and fish waste falls to the bottom of the tank and turns into a fertiliser for the aquatic plants. In turn they produce oxygen through photosynthesis just as the trees and flowers do above water. More oxygen means that the fish can breathe healthy clean and safe water.

Aquatic plants also play an important part in the breeding process of fish. Some species lay their eggs beneath the leaves away from other predatory fish swimming around the plants to ward off fish from nearing them until the eggs hatch, the leafy plants then offer a good food source for the young fry and indeed many adult fish enjoy nibbling on the fresh leaves as much as we enjoy our garden vegetables..

Not only are aquatic plants important to the tank environment but offer an exciting landscape for you and your fish. Imagine walking through the countryside and seeing no trees, no flowers and plant life, pretty grim thought yes? In the same respect the underwater garden offers you the chance to create dramatic and stunning plant effects that will give you hours of watching pleasure as you see your fish happily swimming and enjoying the garden you have given them.

Different plants have different visual effects, look around your aquatic centre and ask for advice as some plants are hardier than others and therefore easier to look after. You will also need to ensure you have a good substrate for the roots to grow and a plant food, this usually comes in liquid form and can be added at intervals to ensure your plants get what they need to survive life in the tank.

The plants come in all shapes and sizes, various colours can brighten a drab looking aquarium, this not only creates great effect for you and any visitors to your home, but also gives the fish a greater enjoyment. When you plant your garden, use your imagination, create an effect you will truly be happy with, and if you need an extra hand there are hundreds of ideas to choose from in websites and books readily available on the net, library?s and in your local aquatic centre.

Cerianwen is a keen aquarist with many years of personal experience of tropical and cold water fish keeping. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Swimming colored fishes in a tank they say is therapeutic. Others believe that viewing fish or schools of fish in a tank gives you a calming effect. It temporarily puts off any worries that you have in mind.

But you will not feel relief or enjoyment if the fishes you are to see are confined in an indistinguishable home. Hence to provide you with viewing satisfaction, an all glass aquarium has been created.

An aquarium is set to be the shelter of ornamental fishes. Plants that can survive in water are also placed in aquarium to augment its beauty as well as provide nourishment with fishes. One type of aquarium is an all glass aquarium, which has been well loved by individuals who have pet fishes for quite a long time.

There have been applauds and criticisms to all glass aquariums. Here are some of its advantages and disadvantages.

Using an all glass aquarium provides you with many benefits such as:

?It is cost-effective to buy glass aquarium compared to other types of tanks.

?It is scratch-resistant.

?The frame of glass aquariums are made of customary width, hence you can ensure that it will not easily be broken.

?There are varieties of color available. You can choose your preferred color for your all glass aquarium.

On the other hand, there are some posed disadvantages whenever you use all glass aquariums.

?Without proper care it can result to brokerage that will result to more serious problem such as possible death of fishes.

?Leakage may be one of your dilemmas if your glass aquarium develops a crack.

?Once you decide to empty the tank for general cleaning, it is weighty to carry.

However with proper handling and care you are most likely to avoid any destruction to your glass aquarium. It is not only the fishes you must take good care but its shelter as well. Just like how you give utmost concern to your own home.

Clear and easy to view ? that is what you get from an all glass aquarium. Now you do not have to worry about not seeing all the fishes in its shelter nor will you worry about gaining enjoyment from fish viewing.

With a glass aquarium your pet fishes will most likely convey to you that they swim and they want be noticed. Watch them, feel the relief and be amazed.

This content is provided by Low Jeremy and may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more info on Aquariums, please visit http://aquarium.articlekeep.com

So Just what makes Acrylic Fish Tanks so special?

Acrylic aquariums are unique in that they afford a wide variety of shape options and the strength one would expect in a product designed to last for decades!

Acrylic aquariums are ten times stronger than glass and are not prone to shatter; while we do not suggest testing our theory I suppose you could take a hammer to that old glass aquarium in your garage and watch what happens!

Take note of the seam work on acrylic aquariums vs. glass fish tanks; no silicon ?goop? holding the corners together. Acrylic seams are stronger, bonded, weld-like, far clearer and cleaner than glass. In fact a virtually invisible museum quality seam is available when purchasing an acrylic aquarium, however, make sure you deal with a quality manufacturer and not the guy spending weekends in his garage in his garage attempting to build a quality system without the proper tools or forming oven to get the work just right.

But doesn?t acrylic scratch easier than glass?

Sure it can scratch, but glass also can scratch and when it does what can you do to fix it? With acrylic a simple buff kit is all that is required to remove the scratch. Over the years these kits have evolved from really difficult to use to so simple you can even use them when the aquarium is full of water!

It would seem that an acrylic aquarium purchase is the most sensible purchase for a majority of aquarium keepers due to the strength, clarity, clearer seams, half the weight, variety of shapes, and classier look.

Aquariumsource.com offers fine hand-crafted acrylic aquarium systems complete with furniture grade cabinetry shipped WORLDWIDE. To find out more about fine custom acrylic aquariums visit Aquariumsource, LLC.

Many fish species from all over the world likes to spawn among Java moss plants in the aquarium even when Java moss can not be found in their native habitat. Java moss will also provide fry with an ideal hiding place where they can avoid being eaten by adult fish. Since infusoria appreciate Java moss as a home, really small fry will have access to tiny food that they can feed on until they are large enough to eat bigger food types. Java moss does not have to be planted in the substrate; you can simply tie it to a piece of aquarium decoration or leave it floating around in the aquarium. A free-floating piece of Java moss can however be sucked into the filter, so most aquarists prefer to attach the Java moss to something or plant it in the substrate. Java moss can actually do well even above surface as long as the air is moist. It is therefore a great plant for open aquariums and paludariums.

When you attach the Java moss to rock, wood or any other type of aquarium decoration you can for instance use fishing wire. Be careful not to use materials that can pollute the water, e.g. cupper wire. The Java moss will instantly start growing small roots (so called rhizoids) and try to attach it self to the surface. After a while, the fishing wire is no longer needed since the plant will be secured by the rhizoids.

Java moss is a very fast growing plant, and when you have purchased one plant you can easily use it to create new plants for other parts of the aquarium. Java moss can be propagated by simply splitting the plant and moving one of the parts to another place. The Java moss will often propagate itself in the aquarium since small pieces will fall of the main plant and drift around in the water until they find a new place where they can attach themselves. The Java moss will also form red-brown sporocarps.

Java moss will endure a wide range of different water conditions and temperatures. It is native to warm waters and the preferred temperature range is therefore 64?-86? F (18?-30? C). It will also appreciate a pH between 5.8 and 8.0 but can sometimes adapt to more acidic conditions. Unlike many other tropical plants, Java moss does not require strong light and it will actually do best in low or medium strong light. Algae can be a problem for the Java moss since excessive algae growth on the leaves can harm and even kill the plant.

Allen Jesson writes for several sites including two sites that specialize in salt water and fresh water aquariums and the aquarium site and Seapets, a leading source for aquariums and fish tanks.

Scientific Name: Botia macracanthus
Other Scientific Name(s): Cobitis macracanthus, Botia macrocanthus
Common Name: Clown Loach

Clown loaches are very popular aquarium fish; however they are not always easy to keep successfully since they easily succumb to ick and are sensitive to poor water conditions. This article is intended to help new clown loach owners provide a good home for their loaches. Clown loaches are found in Indonesia (Sumatra and Borneo), and almost all clown loaches in aquariums are wild caught and distributed around the world before being sold. This can put considerable stress on the fish, and a vital step in getting a healthy clown loach school in your aquarium is choosing healthy fish. But how to make sure that you get healthy fish?

- Check the general conditions in the fish store. Are there dead fish in the aquariums? Is the water clean? If some tanks are mistreated there is a good chance that there might be unfavourable conditions in others too. Only buy fish from stores that take good care of their aquariums.

- How do the clown loaches look? Clown loaches can give you an indication of their condition based on their coloration. A healthy clown loach shows clear distinct colours, while a stressed one loses its colours and becomes whiter. Only buy loaches that show their correct colours.

- Are the clown loaches well fed? Those that haven’t been fed correctly are hard to nurse back to health, and it is more than likely you will end up with a dead fish if you buy one. Look at their bodies and see if they look well fed, and ask the shopkeepers how often and what the loaches are fed.

- Are the clown loaches active? Healthy clown loaches are very active and full of energy. A healthy clown loach should be hard to catch.

- Do the clown loaches have hiding places? Hiding places are very important to relieve stress in clown loaches, and you are likely to get higher quality fish from aquariums with hiding places.

- Don’t buy clown loaches smaller than 2 inches/5 cm if you haven’t kept clown loaches before, since they are much more sensitive when they are younger.

So ideally you should look for the most coloured, most active clown loaches you can find, and buy these to have the best starting point possible. You should also consider the water conditions in the store and try to find one that keeps their clown loaches in water condition similar to the water conditions in your aquarium, to reduce stress on the clown loaches. It should also be stated that clown loaches like resting on their sides, looking almost as if they were dead. However this is completely normal and should not be seen as a sign of poor quality in the fish but rather the opposite. When you have decided where to buy your clown loaches you should buy at least 3 (preferable 8-10). Clown loaches are schooling fish that should never be kept alone!!!

Once you get home with your new clown loaches you should let the bag float on the water surface for 10-15 minutes, and then slowly every 10 minutes add a little water from the aquarium (a coffee cup). Repeat this 4-5 times before you release the fish into their new home.

Tank setup
Clown loaches can be kept in aquariums of 100 L / 20 G or more. Keep in mind that even though clown loaches grow very slowly they will get big eventually and need an aquarium of at least 540 L/ 125 G, and that should be considered a minimum.

Decorate your aquarium using a bottom substrate of sand or fine gravel that allows the clown loaches to dig . I recommend keeping your clown loaches in a planted aquarium, however the choice of plants differs greatly depending on whether you keep juvenile or adult clown loaches. Juvenile clown loaches can be kept with most plant species, while adults can be kept only with hardy plants such as Java fern and Anubias. All other plants will be destroyed and/or eaten by the adult clown loaches. I also recommend using floating plants to dim the lighting, which makes the loaches more active during the day.

Clown loaches want a setup with a lot of caves and other hiding places, preferably so narrow that they can just barely squeeze themselves into them. Don’t be concerned if your clown loaches have squeezed themselves into caves they dug under rocks or aquarium equipment. Odds are they are not stuck – they just like it that way.

Hiding places can be created with rocks, roots, PVC pipes, flower pots, coconuts and different kinds of aquarium decorations. Sharp objects should not be used to decorate aquariums for clown loaches. You can not create too many hiding places and you should create several for each loach.

Clown loaches are sensitive to poor water quality, and they require good filtration. Higher water circulation is also appreciated since clown loaches live in currents in the wild.

Clown loaches are excellent jumpers, and you should make sure that your tank is properly sealed.

Health
As I said earlier, clown loaches are very sensitive towards poor water quality and are usually the first fish that get ill or die if the water quality drops. Water changes of at least 25% a week are recommended. Because of their low tolerance to poor water qualities they are sometimes called indicator fish, since their health indicates the status of the aquarium. Clown loaches are very sensitive to chlorine, and even small amounts can cause a mass death of loaches.

This species are very prone towards getting ick if the water quality isn’t good enough, and are sensitive to most ick medicines and salts. So keep an eye on your clown loaches and only use half the recommended doses of medicine, otherwise you risk the medicine killing the loaches.

Food
Clown loaches are carnivores and only eat vegetables to complement their diet. It is therefore recommended that they are given food that reflects this. To get your clown loaches to grow, optimal feeding 3-5 times a day is recommended. (They still grow slowly). Their diet should contain a variety of foods, and can include almost any carnivorous food. A good base may be shrimps, different sinking wafers, different frozen foods, and as they grow older, fish slices. Clown loaches can make a clicking sound, and they will do this when they are content. Therefore you will soon find out what is your loaches’ favourite food by them clicking when they receive it. Like most other fish, clown loaches might need some time to accept new foods, however once they do it might become a favourite. Clown loaches are one of the few fishes that eat and like snails, and can therefore be of good use in snail control.

Breeding
Clown loaches have been bred in aquariums, however it is very rare. Sexing clown loaches externally is hard, but possible by looking at the tail fin. The tail fin tips on the male are slightly bent inwards, making the fin look a little bit like a claw. The tail fin tips on the females aren’t shaped like this.

Clown loaches have to be quite old and at least 7 inches / 17 cm before they are sexually mature. In the one good account of clown loaches spawning they spawned under the following conditions:

- Temp: 84F
– pH: 6.5
– Ammonia & Nitrite: 0
– Nitrate: < 25

Four large clown loaches (over 25 cm /10 inches) were kept together in a planted aquarium, and a few weeks before spawning they changed their behaviour and started eating live fish as their only accepted food. The females in the group grew very fast on this diet, and had doubled in girth by the time of spawning. The night during which the spawning took place, two clowns were swimming close beneath the surface entwined in each other and clicking. The next morning, 450 eggs were found spread about the aquarium. Clown loaches eat their own eggs, so it is recommended moving the parents if you wish to succeed in spawning them.

The fry were fed liquid fry food for the first two weeks, after which they accepted crushed flakes. They grew relatively fast, to 2.5 cm/ 1 inch in 6 weeks. After that the growth rate slowed down.

It’s suggested that older fish are essential for breeding since this fish might have to be quite old to be sexually mature. Clown loaches live to be about 50 years, so it is quite feasible that they may spawn later in life than many other species.

William Berg has over 20 years of aquarium experiences and runs an aquarium website with a lot of information about aquarium decoration and all other aspects of aquarium keeping aswell as different fish species such as cichlids, bettas, catfishes and even crayfish.

This article was originally written for a site about clown loaches.

The real apistogramma’s come from southern America, they all have the same characteristics, like a complex breeding behavior, as their large relatives, only their size is different. Besides the apistogramma group there are also some relatively popular dwarf cichlids from Africa, like the Pelvicachromis group. From this group the most widespread cichlid is the Pelvicachromis pulcher, also known as the Kribensis or Purple cichlid.

Generally the cichlids from the apistogramma group are more fragile and harder to maintain, and breed, for a longer period of time. In my opinion apistogramma’s are not real beginner species. They are more likely to get diseases if not all the environmental variables are properly taken care of. They need soft and acidic water with a low PH value, a PH of 5.5 to 6 is preferable. They hardly eat dry foods, best is to feed them live foods or frozen food, like bloodworms, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae. Apistogramma species can be kept in a large tropical community aquarium, but be sure the other fish are not too small, they can defend their territory very fiercely, and can be quite aggressive when they are breeding. In my opinion it is best to keep the apistogramma’s on their own, in a larger aquarium you could combine two apistogramma variants together, maybe supplemented with a small group of other fish, like some livebearers or betta’s. They also can be kept together with discus or angel fish. I always have a harem of apisto’s in my discus tanks, just to populate the lower areas of the aquarium and I really like these small dwarfs with a big attitude.

The cichlids from the Pelvicachromis group are much more tolerant when it comes to water values and feeding, I do consider these cichlids a good beginner species. They are hardened, beautiful colored and eat almost anything. The Pelvicachromis pulcher is maybe one of the most easy to breed cichlids as well. If you have an adult couple they will reproduce, in a community tank, a special species tank or in a pond, some people like to breed them in their pond during summer. Actually some of the biggest and nicest colored Pelvicachromis pulcher were pond bred and raised. The only thing to keep in mind with these cichlids is that they are capable of redesigning your aquarium, they can make huge holes and are real little bulldozers. So if you have, or want to setup, a subtile planted tank, don’t add a couple of Pelvicachromis to your aquarium.

The last dwarf cichlid I want to mention is the Microgeophagus ramirezi, or Ram cichlid. Their behavior and care are roughly the same as the apistogramma’s but they are more tolerant when it comes to water values, and in my experience they are easier to keep in good condition. Unlike the apistos they have to be kept as a couple, not a harem but that’s the only breeding experience I have. I have tried several couples, have a couple in a breeding tank right now, but I have never even had a clutch of eggs. I know from other breeders that they are kind of hard to get going, but if they do they never stop.

Auke Veenstra is keeping and breeding tropical aquarium fish, and dendrobatea, for years. He shares his experiences on the TinkerFish website.

Tropical aquarium fish

This article can be used for free on-line, if the origin of the article is mentioned and an active link to http://www.tinkerfish.com is provided.

Aquarium fish fall ill just like any other pet. The illnesses are as a result of disease. The common diseases that affect aquarium fish are mostly stress induced.

The micro-organisms which cause these diseases may be present in the water as part of the normal micro fauna and grab the opportunity to infest or infect the fish when it is stressed and its normal defense are weakened.

Different ways aquarium fish suffer from stress

- Aquarium fish usually start experiencing stress starting from the time it?s about living the breeding farm till when the end purchaser finally picked it from retailer. Most beginners don?t really know how to handle fish.

- The quality of water is another cause of aquarium fish stress. Different fish species have different water quality that will make the environment conducive for them. Quality parameters like pH, water hardness, high nitrite and carbon dioxide level, low dissolved oxygen salinity of water, water temperature and others.

- Any change in environment like physical damage, leaches, lice and introduction of new fish that is not quarantine could lead to stress in aquarium, thus making life non conducive for fish in aquarium tank

- Change in weather condition is another factor that leads to aquarium fish stress. When there is heavy downfall as you know the weather will become cold and this could lead to stress in aquarium.

- Poor Diet as a result of lack in nutritional requirement always leads to poor performance in fish immune system. Fish immune system will struggle to operate efficiently. This will result in a stressed fish.

Warning signs of illness in aquarium fish

You can easily know when your fish are going through stress if you watch them very well and often. You will notice signs like fish swimming with clamps up (closed) in their fins, hovering in a corner, heavy breathing and fish brushing its body against objects. These are warning signs you need to act on immediately.

How to reduce stress in aquarium

To reduce stress in aquarium, you need to guide against factors that lead to stress. The following are tips on how to prevent stress that ultimately leads to illness:

- Make sure you have detail information about the fish species that you will be introducing to your tank. Enquiring about its requirements before you buy it will help you a lot. Thus, ask lots of questions before making your purchase.

- Knowing the right food for your fish is another important thing you have to know as this may vary from species to species. If you have this knowledge you will be able to provide foods that are rich in nutritional ingredients that your fish require.

- Keep the environment clean.

- When you want to introduce new fish, make sure it’s quarantined to reduce the risk of disease.

For more great aquarium related articles and resources check out http://tropicalfish.aquariumspot.com

The Congo tetra is less well-known that its famous relatives the Neon tetra and Cardinal tetra and it is seldom found in beginner aquariums. The Congo tetra has an elongated body with big eyes. The scales are quite large. The middle rays of the caudal fins are very long in male Congo tetras. You can also tell the male apart from the female on his big dorsal fin that reaches all the way back to the caudal fin. Males will also grow bigger than females. A male Congo tetra can become 3.5 inches long, while the female typically stay smaller than 2.5 inches. A group of Congo tetras can be comfortably housed in aquariums measuring 40 inches or more in length.

The native habit for Congo tetra is the Zaire River basin in Central Africa. Wild caught Congo tetras are still very common in the aquarium trade since captive bred specimens tend to be of lower quality. This species is really not very hard to breed in aquariums, and hopefully we will se an increased quality in the captive bred specimens offered by aquarium stores in the future. Today, the wild caught Congo tetras usually have longer fins than the captive bred specimens and display more pronounced colours.

Congo tetras sport iridescent colours that very from specimen to specimen. The main body colour is olive green and the fins can be grey or of a pale red shade. The belly is usually violet or purple. Each side of the body is decorated with a large light brown stripe under which many smaller stripes can be seen. These stripes are usually green or golden. The tail fin and anal fin have white edges, and the anal fin is also decorated with a darker spot.

The Congo tetra will feel stressed if kept in a barren aquarium and can become very shy and skittish. A well planted aquarium with plenty of hiding spaces is therefore recommended. You should also keep at least six Condo tetras together, preferably even more, since the Congo tetra is a schooling species. Aggressive species can also cause stress and shyness in Congo tetras, so housing it with other peaceful species is advisable.

The recommended temperature range for the Congo tetra is 73? – 79? F (23? – 26? C). The levels of soluble waste must be kept very low and frequent water changes are necessary. The water circulation should also be quite powerful. Congo tetras prefer somewhat acidic waters, but a pH from 6.0 to 7.5 is usually tolerated. Soft water is advisable, but this species is known to adapt to harder conditions in the aquarium.

In the wild, the Congo tetra feed on insects, but it is not very hard to train onto flakes or frozen food in the aquarium. If you give your Congo tetra nothing but flakes, it can however become dull and loos its striking colours. Using flakes as a base and supplementing them with brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, or similar foods is therefore recommended.

Allen Jesson writes for several sites including two sites that specialize in salt water and fresh water aquariums and the aquarium site and Seapets, a leading source for aquariums and fish tanks.

Goldfish Healthcare

You would think that it?s unfair that such a small little creature that brings you so much joy can actually fall sick. But it?s a fact of life that all living things are susceptible to illness, infections, and diseases and will ultimately die. Goldfish too are a species with its own set of health problems that will leave you feeling helpless. The best way to deal with this issue is to familiarize yourself with common health issues that goldfish face and the reasons for their sickness. Knowing the kinds of ailments will empower you with the knowledge to be alert to symptoms and take the appropriate steps to deal with if you can.

Through many hours of research, I have been able to come up with the answers to some the most important questions that have plagued me for so long. Such questions as -

1. Why do Goldfish suddenly turn on their sides before dying later on?

2. Why do goldfish sometimes attack eachother?

3. What exactly is that white growth that appears on their body, known as Ichtyopthirius(Ich), and how do you treat it?

4. What other health threats do Goldfish face?

5. How many fish can you fit in a tank without it being overcrowded?

I was able to find the answers to several hundred questions in total, which I documented in an ebook that I called ‘Goldfish Secrets Revealed!’ You can check it out at my site by Clicking Here

Dane Stanton is an expert on goldfish health care. To visit his website visit http://www.goldfish-secrets.com for more information on Goldfish care and other aquarium related topics. *Recommended*