One of the biggest problems my clients complain about is the fact that their dogs dont come when called. This is not only annoying but can be costly and dangerous. A dog that wont come when called can potentially run into traffic, run away from you and get in a dog fight, or ruin someones picnic in the park as he runs up happily all the while ignoring your calls to return. The best way to teach the ultimate recall is by using a dog training device called the electric dog training collar.

Before I explain how to train this exercise I need to first give a little bit of background on the tool that you will be using. An electric dog training collar is perhaps the least understood dog training product on the market. Many consider this dog training product to mean, cruel, and violent. The truth is the opposite. Used properly, an electric dog training collar is actually one of the most humane ways to train your dog. It allows you the greatest freedom while delivering the least violent correction (Try one on yourself. They really arent painful unless you use the highest levels. For the recall exercise you will be using low levels, though.) Think about it, when giving a dog a correction which is more humane? A jerk on a leash or a small bee sting on the neck administered from an electric dog training collar?

An electric dog training collar allows you to give an off-leash correction at great distances. You will harness this ability to show your dog that he must return when called no matter how far away. The first step is to teach your dog to come to you on leash.

Read this article on how to train your dog on leash first.

It is important that your dog first has a knowledge of what come here means before you start using the electric collar. Once he knows what come here means you can start using the electric collar.

Start out by conditioning your dog to the collar. Have him wear it at odd times for several days before you even start using it. You want the dog to have a neutral association toward the collar. Too many times dog owners will put the collar on, train the dog, and take the collar off. They repeat this over and over and soon the dog learns that he only has to obey when the collar is on. For that reason you must make him believe that training has nothing to do with the collar. If you do this properly you will be able to phase out the use of the collar and soon he will obey the same regardless of whether or not he is wearing the electric dog training collar.

Once your dog is properly conditioned to the collar you can begin. I am going to teach you the mechanics of the exercise first and then teach you the canine psychology of why this exercise works.

1. Find your dogs tolerance for the electric dog training collar. This is the unpleasant part of training with electricity but it must be done. Tie your dog out in a neutral area wearing the electric collar. Wait until he is in a neutral state of mind, not thinking of anything or distracted by anything. Go to the lowest level of stimulation and hit the button. Check his face to see if there is a reaction. If not, go up a level. Continue in this way until you see a small reaction. Once you find this level that is your benchmark. To train this exercise you will use your benchmark level minus one.
2. Have your dog wearing the dog training electric collar, a regular collar beneath that, and a long line attached to the regular collar.
3. Allow your dog to separate himself from you at a distance of 10 feet or more.
4.Set the remote to your pre-determined level. The next part is going to require a lot of coordination and practice so pay attention. There are several things that must be done simultaneously and in sequence.
5.Hold down the button on the remote for 2 seconds without saying a word.
6.As you continue to hold the button down tell your dog come-here, as you pull the long line toward you, and as you jog backwards. Read it twice. There are several things that need to be done at once.
7.The very instant your dog starts moving in your direction release the button and praise your dog like crazy. When he gets to you, praise him physically and verbally.
8.Continue this course of action. Repetition is very important. With this exercise there is a 2 second window where you are giving a small correction before you even give the command. After plenty of repetition you will notice that as you start to hold down the button he will start coming to you before you have had a chance to say come-here. When you reach this point you can move to the next step.
9. In the next step you will remove the long line. Repeat the training exactly as before except you will cut out the step where you pull on the long line. Repeat this step often and for several days. When your dog is perfect at this you can move on to the next step.
10. In the next step you are now going to remove the first part. Have your dog off leash and separated from you. Call to your dog come-here. If he comes, great! Give him tons of praise. If he doesnt come, hold down the correction button until he begins to come, at which point you will instantly release the button and praise him. Repeat this step often. Repeat it at close distances and far distances. At this point your dog understands that coming when called is fun because of the praise involved, but also that he must come every time.

Sounds easy enough, right? Ok, lets examine the canine psychology that goes into making this exercise successful. At its root, this training exercise is successful because you are slowly teaching your dog how to turn off the stimulation from the collar. In the very beginning stages you turn the stimulation on for 2 seconds with no hint as to why. Your dog feels it, it isnt painful because it is a low level, but it does cause confusion because he doesnt know why he is feeling it. As you continue with the exercise he begins running in your direction and the stimulation immediately turns off. With enough repetition your dog forms the association and realizes that it is the act of returning to you that turns off the stimulation. Following that, you proof the exercise. You allow him the chance to make a mistake by giving the command without the stimulation. If he does mess up the stimulation turns on and only turns off when he begins to return to your side.

Be very careful with this exercise. Study it out in your mind first and visualize yourself completing all the steps perfectly. Then try it out using a friend at the end of the leash instead of your dog. You must be very precise with the steps. Miscalculation of even a little bit could spell disaster for the whole exercise. For example, if your dog begins running toward you and you wait a second or two before turning off the stimulation, instead of turning it off immediately, your dog will not be able to make the association of returning to you equals stimulation turns off.

Practice makes perfect. Using the electric dog training collar can not only be fun but can be an excellent way to train your dog.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

More articles at articles host

Dogs and Cats. Eternal enemies, right? Through proper dog home obedience training you can teach your animals to live together.

The first mistake that most pet owners make when introducing their pet dogs and cats is to allow them to make their own introductions. This is a mistake! As I stated above, these two species are eternal enemies. You cant just set one down near the other and expect great results. (Ok, I know that can happen and does happen, but my job here is to teach you about dog home obedience training. My version of training calls for prevention with dogs and cats rather than creating a problem and then being forced to fix it. As Mom used to say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.) There is a good deal of prevention that should be used before allowing your dogs and cats to co-exist.

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a home with a dog or vice versa I want you to start out the same way. Start out by using your trusty dog crate. Put your dog in the crate and allow the cat to be in the same room. There are several possible outcomes to this action :
1.Your dog shows complete indifference. This is ideal. If your dog behaves like this you will have a quick transition.
2.Your dog shows fear. This is not ideal but it will make the transition easier than some other outcomes.
3.Your dog shows nervousness and anxiety. He whines, he paces in the crate, paws at the door of the crate, etc. This behavior tells you that he wants out. There is something about that cat that is exciting and he wants to know what it is.
4.Your dog shows overt aggression. He barks, claws at the door of the crate, and he knows exactly what he wants to do with that cat. This is going to be the toughest dog to train, but it can be done.

For the first few days dont let your dogs and cats near each other. Keep the dog in the crate. This doesnt mean you need to keep him in the crate 24/7. When you want him out of the crate just make sure that your cat is shut off in another bedroom to avoid contact. What you hope to accomplish with this action is to train your dog to be indifferent to the cat. You want your dog to view the cat as background noise. The cat is inconsequential, the cat doesnt matter, there is nothing interesting or exciting about the cat. In other words, your dog is safely tucked away in the crate and casually observes the cat move around the house. For categories 1 and 2 this will be simple. It will take no more than a day or two for your dog to think of your cat as just another ‘thing’ in the house. Categories 3 and 4 will take more training and time.

For categories 3 and 4 you need to attach a negative association to showing cat aggression. To do this, get a spray bottle. Fill the bottle with either plain water, water mixed with lemon juice, or for very stubborn dogs, water with vinegar. At this point, your dog is still tucked away safely in the crate. The next part of training will be conducted while you are sitting near the crate, ready for action. The instant your dog shows aggression (barks at the cat, claws at the door, whines in frustration, etc.) toward the cat spray him in the face with your spray bottle. Every time he shows aggression spray him with the bottle. When he isnt showing aggression give him soft praise, Good boy.

Make sure that your dog never gets a chance to show aggression toward the cat without having a bad experience. This means that you must always be ready with the spray bottle or make sure the cat isnt near the dog. If you arent vigilant and your dog has the chance to show aggression with no adverse consequence, you are training him to show cat aggression.

If you are consistent with this exercise you will soon notice that your dog will show less and less aggression while in the crate, it just isnt worth the squirt in the face for him. You are on your way to getting your dogs and cats to co-exist.

When your feel comfortable that your dog is indifferent to the cat move on to the next step. As I said, for categories 1 and 2 this is probably one or two days after beginning the crate training. For categories 3 and 4 get your dog to the point where he is indifferent and maintains that attitude for several days if not a week.

The next step is to get your dog out of the crate and get those dogs and cats together at last! You are going to move slowly, though. Put your dog training collar and leash on your dog and make sure that he is always wearing it around the house. Keep your dog near you and allow your cat to be in the room. If your dog makes any move whatsoever to chase the cat, bark at the cat, or perform any of the stereotypical behaviors that dogs and cats do, give him a very strong correction with the leash. You want this leash correction to be a very memorable one so it must be very strong. You want to form a very negative association toward cat aggression.

Be consistent with this training. If you do this properly you will notice that your dog has less and less of a desire to chase after or bark at the cat. As you notice your dog changing his behavior give him more and more freedom by allowing him to be closer to the cat and further away from you. Eventually you will phase out the use of the dog training collar and leash.

Even if your dog isnt showing aggressive tendencies, never let him chase after the cat in the house, even playfully.

Even some of the hardest to train dogs will respond to the above method. There exist, however, certain dogs that have such strong prey drive that only drastic measures will cure them of their desire to chase and kill cats. For these dogs I employ an electric dog training collar.

Read the instruction manual on proper fitting for your electric dog training collar. With a stubborn dog that needs an electric collar the method is simple. With the collar on his neck and turned on to a high level of stimulus you are going to correct your dog every time he even looks at the cat. As your dog even sneaks a glance at your cat press the button to deliver the correction. Dont say no, dont react in any way, just correct him for looking at the cat. Do this as many times as it takes. Lets examine this from your dogs point of view. He wants to get to the cat, wants to chase, wants to kill. But the very act of looking at the cat causes him pain. You dont tell him anything so he doesnt associate the correction with you. He soon will learn to believe that the cat is evil and he had better not even look at it because it the act of looking causes pain.

As with all training, you must be very consistent. Your dog must never have a successful chance to even chase or want to chase the cat. Be consistent, though, and soon your dogs and cats will be able to co-exist.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

More articles at articles database

We all expect excitement and adoration when we bring a new puppy home for everyone to dote over. Although, someone will probably be a little more nervous than excited the puppy! This is ok though. Here are some steps to make this a little more pleasing for everyone involved.

Before you bring a pup into your house, there are a few things you’ll need to do before you start puppy training. You might want to consider the view from the pups eyes. That may sound a little odd at first although you’ll see what I mean in a minute.

Potted plants may be attractive to a pup. How about shifting it to a higher position? What about all the personal belongings you have under the coffee table or in baskets here and there? Don’t worry, this is all part of puppy training and you’re only moving them for a short time. Once your new puppy has learned her place in the family, you can put your things back where they go. Your life should never be dictated by your puppy. Although, by removing these curiosity objects from the start, it will allow you to work with your puppy on the basic training she will need to learn.

It is imperative to understand that as much as you want your new puppy to be a part of your family; your puppy is still an animal. Puppy training is essential. She will take her cues from her environment. If she is allowed to have free reign of the home and access to everything, you are letting her think she is in charge. Pups have instincts. The main instinct of Pups is to live in a pack. Your new puppy will assume her new family is her pack. If she picks up the clues that she is her own boss and she can do what she wants, whenever she wants, she is being taught she is the leader of her pack. Everyone will find it easier, including the Puppy, if she learns when she enters the home that she is not the head of the family.

A common error people make is letting their puppy sleep in a utility room, or kitchen. Pups are from the wolf family, and really prefer to have a den all their own. Some people assume placing a Puppy in a potty/crate is cruel. On the contrary, if potty/crates are introduced properly, they will be much loved by the puppy. When planning for a new puppy, do not go out and buy the biggest potty/crate you can find for your puppy thinking she will grow into it. This is the worst mistake owner’s make. A potty/crate should be large enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Puppies usually learn from their mothers to not soil in their bed area. If the potty/crate is too large, your puppy may designate a portion of her potty/crate for sleeping, and the other half for soiling. You should also never place your puppy’s food and water in her potty/crate.

At the time your puppy is first introduced to the potty/crate, do not simply put her inside and close the door. This will only disturb her. (You should place the potty/crate in a room in your home where the family gathers. You should not expect the puppy to walk through the entire house to the back guest bedroom to nap. While having the potty/crate in close proximity to the family, the puppy will feel as if she is still hanging out with her pack, even if she is inside her potty/crate sleeping.) You can place a towel in the bottom, and a chew toy inside if you want. Some puppies are very curious. They will simply walk inside. Others may be a little shy with the potty/crate. Give your puppy time to warm up to the potty/crate. When she does enter the potty/crate, praise her. Why not give her potty/crate a name. When she enters the potty/crate, you can repeat the potty/crates name, and give her a treat.

Once she is familiar with her potty/crate and has entered and exited it a few times, you can close the door. She may whine and paw at the door. She may even start yelping and barking. This is okay. Do not let her out. After about ten minutes, you can open the door and pick her up. Walk her directly to the area designated for pottying. Most puppies will simply squat and go where they please. Once you are outside, set her down. You would then encourage her to do her business. Choose a couple of words such as, Go potty, or Do your job. Although she hasnt studied English, she will eventually understand. Although, after repeated attempts and with being given a puppy treat and praise, she will learn what those words mean. Most puppies will need to go out at least every hour during the first few days to familiarize them with their potty area. This is a chance for you to catch them doing their business where they need to. Lavish them with praise.

Over the first couple of nights you may even question why you brought the puppy home. The repeated yelping and whining coming from the potty/crate can seriously upset many adults who need their sleep. You should look at your new puppy as the baby in the family. Important – puppies less than four months of age may need to go out once during the night. After she has relieved herself, place her promptly back into the potty/crate.

Dont ever, ever play with your puppy during the evening hours. This will only encourage. After a few days, your puppy will adjust to the night time patterns of her pack and everyone will get more rest. Most Pups are able to make it through the entire night without a potty break around 18 weeks.

There are those who think it is harsh to scold a puppy. These dog owners may be the same people who have a Puppy running wild in their home within a year. Pups which aren’t disciplined can wreck havoc on a home. Shredded couch, chewed up shoes, and garbage strewn all over the place are not uncommon in the se environs. If there are other pets in the home, you should also consider their feelings. They will most likely be intimidated by such a furry beast, and scuffles may occur.

Should your special pup begin chewing on items that should be untouchables, a firm no is usually enough. As with other forms of puppy training, this may take a few days for her to learn. This is why you were advised to move precious things away. If she were truly in a Puppy pack, her alpha would nip her soundly. In fact, most puppies seem to feel more secure when they know their place.

The most imperative things you can do with your puppy besides introducing a potty/crate immediately, is instilling a potty routine, and teaching her what no means, and build the relationship with your new puppy. Get on the floor and play. The bond will grow along with the love. This will make your pup want to please you and be obedient. I assure you it will go a long way when you start teaching her other basic puppy training commands such as sit and stay.

This article has been supplied courtesy of Kitty Barker. Kitty often writes and works closely with Puppy And Dog Tips who can help with more information on Puppy Training. If the link is inactive, you can paste this one into your browser – puppy-and-dog-tips.com/ You can also look for Puppy Training information at Potty Puppy Training. If this previous link is not working you can paste this link into your browser, easy-puppy-training-tips.com

More articles at database for articles

Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Turning with your trailer.

Backing your trailer.

Parking your trailer on a grade.

Stopping the trailer rig suddenly.

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

More articles at articles database

Everybody loves a baby animal and Westie puppies are adorable, but new dog purchasers often do not realize the commitment they are making when they bring a puppy home. For those want the companionship of Westies dogs, but do not have the knowledge or patience to endure the training process, rescuing an older Westie dog may be the right alternative.

When considering an older West highland terrier dog, the first thing that many people think is that they would be getting a dog with problems, either genetic problems common to Westies, or behavioral problems from improper training. The truth is, many Westie dogs go to shelters for reasons that have nothing to do with the dogs’ inherent qualities. Every year, dog owners die, move to retirement homes, change jobs, get divorced, have new babies, or, unfortunately, simply tire of the responsibility of caring for a dog.

The advantages of older dogs are many. They have already finished teething, and no longer feel the urge to chew holes in your shoes, rugs, and furniture. Westie dogs that are older have grown used to sleeping through the night while their people sleep, as opposed to westie puppies, who wake up and whine. Older pets will have already been housetrained and also should know the meaning of the word ‘no,’ making their continued training that much easier.

When you encounter a Westie puppy, you only have the breed standards to give you an idea of what kind of dog it will grow into. Although Westhighland dogs have a typical personality type, there are variations from dog to dog. The full-grown Westie is a know quantity. The Westie dog you meet is what you will get, and you can quickly determine if it will fit into your home.

It may seem like rescuing an older Westie provides you with an ‘instant dog,’ but that is not the case. At first they might become confused, upon arriving at a new home, and need to be reminded of their basic training. However, even allowing a few weeks of extra special care is easier and less stressful than the rigors of training a puppy.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson
webmaster@madaboutwesties.com

*****************************************
Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest
Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie Puppies
You’ve Ever Dreamed Of! Then Click Here NOW!
******************************************

More articles at database for articles

How cool would it be if you could say one command and your dog would know to immediately go to the bathroom wherever he or she may be? Ill answer for you, it would be very cool. This is taking potty training to the next level

Teaching your dog to go to the bathroom on command is not only a fun thing to teach your dog but can also be quite useful. How many times have you taken your dog out to the bathroom in inclement weather and wished that he would just go so you could get back inside? I find this command to be very useful as well when you are traveling. When you pull over at a rest stop you can give this command, he does his business, and you are back on the road.

Before we get started there are a few prerequisites. First, your dog needs to be housebroken and second he needs to be primarily an indoor dog. An outdoor dog can go to the bathroom whenever he wants and so you never get the chance to train him.

Does your dog meet the above requirements? Ok, lets get started. First, determine what is a good motivator for your dog. If possible, I will always use food as a motivator for this exercise. Find out what food is most motivating for your pal. Personally, I use pieces of hot dog as they are cheap and they are easily swallowed. Some dogs just arent driven by food, however. If your dog is one of these, how does he feel about toys? Does he go crazy for a ball or a Frisbee? If so you can use that. From time to time I come by a dog that wont chase a ball to save his life and would rather take a nap than take a piece of hot dog. For a dog like this, the best motivator is going to be praise. By praise I mean plenty of good boys and patting and rubbing.

Once you have determined what is going to be the best motivator you can get started. If your dog is housebroken he is probably on some sort of schedule. He is probably accustomed to be taken out at certain times. When you are teaching him this command keep him on this schedule. At his next scheduled potty time take him out to his usual area and start repeating the command potty time. You dont have to use the command potty time. Some people just feel silly saying that to a dog. Use whatever command you want. I have used several commands such as bathroom, take a break, hurry up, do your business and more. Keep repeating the command ‘potty time’ every two to three seconds. When your dog goes to the bathroom immediately reward him with food, toy, or praise. Simple as that!

Now, in the beginning your dog is going to have no idea what potty time means. For him it is just going to be background noise. That is fine, just stay consistent with the command and reward. After a while your dog is going to start making a connection, Hey, every time I hear that command and do my thing, I get rewarded! This is pretty awesome! If you do your job right he is going to connect your command with the act of going to the bathroom and getting rewarded.

Let me give you a few things to remember at this stage. In the beginning make sure that every time you take him out to the bathroom that you are prepared. Being prepared means having his reward and making sure that you are giving him that command every few seconds. If for some reason you dont have his reward handy, DO NOT give him the command. If you are giving him the command but then not rewarding him for compliance then your are tricking him. You are showing him that there is no pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. In the beginning stages he must believe that when he goes to the bathroom on command he just won the lotto.

After time he will now go to bathroom on command in his normal area. The next step is to take him outside his normal area and repeat the same steps. Take him to the park and tell him potty time every few seconds. When he does, get him that reward. Keep doing this at home and at other areas.

If you are consistent it wont be long before he is now going to the bathroom on command every time. You are ready for the next step.

The next step is to gradually reduce the rewards that he gets. Every fifth time instead of giving him food just tell him good boy and pat him on the head. Next it is every fourth time you withhold the treat. Then every third time and then every other time. Soon you will be giving him a little praise every time he goes to the bathroom and only rarely giving him the treat.

Be consistent and within a short time your dog will be going to the bathroom on command every time.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

More articles at articles database

Is your dog hunting for land mines around your yard? Digging in the yard is a dog behavior problem that many of my clients have complained about. It ruins the grass, flowerbeds, and generally gives a lousy look to your yard. Train it correctly and your dog can learn to hate digging in the yard.

Digging is a natural behavior for your dog. Members of the canine family in the wild dig to hide their treasured possessions and to build their shelters. In our domesticated world, however, digging is not an acceptable behavior.

The first thing to do is to understand that your dog is digging to fulfill one of his needs. Start out by giving your dog something else to do. Make sure that he has safe toys to play with in the back yard and that he gets plenty of exercise. This probably will not cure him of his digging behavior problem but it is only fair to help him occupy his time.

Second, you must change his association to digging. Right now your dog sees digging as a fun activity. It is up to you to make it an activity that brings no pleasure.

You are going to need a partner to help out with this exercise. Have your partner take the dog out of the back yard. He cant see what you are about to do. With your dog out of the yard gather as much of his stool as you can. Fill the holes he has dug with his own stool and cover it up with dirt. Do this to every hole.

Most dogs are repulsed by their own stool. Most dogs will also return to their previously dug holes. So when he goes back to his old hole to re-dig, he will find his own stool and have a negative association to that hole. If he then re-digs another hole and again finds his own stool he will once again be repulsed. If this happens often enough he will soon believe that every time he digs he will be confronted with his own stool. This should stop his digging.

Sometimes it isnt as easy as that, though. Some dogs get clever and dig in a new place. When that happens, repeat the same process of removing him from the yard and filling in his hole. You may have to repeat this process numerous times before, by virtue of the law of statistics, he keeps having bad experiences with his own stool while digging.

Stay consistent. Keep at it. Persistence and patience is the keys with removing this unwanted dog behavior problem.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

More articles at articles database

Anthropomorphism. Do you know what it means? Give up? Ok, Ill tell you. Anthropomorphism is the attribution of human characteristics to inanimate objects or animals. What does it have to do with dog training? A lot. And for some people it is a major hindering force in their progress in training their dogs.

Too many times dog owners believe that their dogs are people. They believe that their dogs have the same feelings they do, process information the same way, and generally see the world through the same eyes. It is not true.

If you are going to effectively train your dog you must understand who he is. Or in this case, who he is not. And he definitely is not a human.

The best way, hands down, to housetrain a dog is through the use of a crate or kennel. By using this method you can ensure that when you arent able to supervise your dog that he is safe and sound and not getting in trouble while in his crate. But what have I heard a hundred times? How would you like it if you had to spend time in a kennel?

My answer is always the same. I would hate it! I would hate to spend time in a crate. I would also hate to eat dog kibble. I would hate to walk on a leash. I would hate to be covered in fur in the summer time. There are a thousand things I would hate about being a dog. Here is the catch folks, just because you would hate it doesnt mean that your dog would. My Rottweiler, Rocco, loves his crate. If I ever can’t find him that is the first place I look. I properly conditioned him to his crate so now he views his crate much like a dog in the wild would view a den. Is it cruel to put him somewhere where he would voluntarily go on his own? I have asked many nay-sayers of the crate method how they feel about wild animal dens. Should we go around caving them in because they are cruel and unusual?

The anthropomorphism of dogs isnt limited to crates. This style of thinking has also invaded many other correct dog training principles such as training collars, the use of corrections in training, the need to establish dominance, feeding schedules, and much, much more.

At this stage it is important to note one thing. If you want to treat your dog like a person in many respects this is fine. If you want to dress your poodle in a pink dress or invite your lab to sleep in your bed, or feed your German Shepherd some vanilla ice cream go right ahead (talk to your vet first, though). But if you are letting tried and true dog training techniques go by the wayside because of anthropomorphism, you must re-think your training methods. I promise you, youll thank me.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

More articles at articles database

Is your dog a little less enthusiastic about his daily walks? Is he reluctant to get up or lie down? Do his joints click as he walks? If so, theres a chance your buddy is suffering from canine arthritis.

Just as with humans, arthritis in dogs can be one of a variety of types, but the most common is osteoarthritis.

What is Osteoarthritis and what causes it?

Cartilage in joints acts as a buffer between bones. Sometimes, that cartilage degrades and deteriorates, reducing the buffer between bones, sometimes to the point where there is direct bone-to-bone contact, which is extremely painful for the dog.

There is no single cause of arthritis. Genetics and breeding have made certain breeds more susceptible to hip dysplasia, which often leads to arthritis. Obesity in dogs can also contribute to arthritic conditions. Sometimes young dogs can suffer with arthritis if their bones dont develop correctly. An injury to a limb can also result in arthritis later in life.

Symptoms

If your dog displays some of the following symptoms, you should consult a veterinarian regarding the possibility of canine arthritis:

Inactivity
Favoring of one limb
Reluctance to get up or lie down
Clicking of joints
Visible pain when walking
Swelling of Joints
Whimpering/Crying
Reluctance to climb stairs
Stiffness after getting up

Treatment

There is no cure for canine arthritis. Generally, treatment is dedicated to reducing the inflammation, and managing the pain. You and your veterinarian should decide whether prescribed drugs are warranted.

Glucosamine and Chondroitin have shown good results in reducing the inflammation, and therefore the pain, in the joints in many dogs. Commercial supplements providing this combination include Cosequin and Arthogen, among others. They are available without a prescription.

Changing the animals diet might also help. For overweight dogs, a light product may be in order. Some pet owners may prefer to go the all-natural route, while others might consider dog food that contains Glucosamine and Chondroitin.

Alternative treatments, such as acupuncture and chiropractic have also had positive results for some arthritic canines.

What Can I Do to Make my Arthritic Dog More Comfortable?

If your dog shows signs of arthritis in his neck or shoulders, raise his food and water bowl by using a stand or dog diner.

When the weather is cold or damp, keep your buddy cozy and warm.

Apply moist heat to arthritic joints, in the form of a hot towel, or a towel-wrapped hot water bottle. Never use a heating pad, as it could lead to accidental burning.

Utilize ramps instead of stairs when possible.

Maintain a reasonable activity level. Exercise and mild activity will help stop joints from deteriorating further.

Conclusion

The sad fact is, that once a dog develops arthritis, he will suffer with it for the rest of his life, and all that can be done for him is to make him as comfortable as possible by maintaining a reasonable activity level, feeding the proper diet, and/or treating with over-the-counter medications, prescribed drugs, or holistic remedies. And a lot of love.

Nick Bulka runs a number of pet-related web sites. Visit his sites at http://www.petsupplyguy.com, http://www.dogtraininginstruction.com, and http://www.pet-guide.us

More articles at database for articles

Why use a crate:

When used properly and not abused, crates are the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Dogs are den animals that will instinctively seek out a small, cozy place to rest for shelter and security. Crates act on a dog’s instinct to keep its den clean and unsoiled. Keeping your dog in a crate teaches him to hold it until he can go in an appropriate place, which helps your puppy develop his bladder control. For older dogs, crates act as a bedroom where they can relax and escape the hustle and bustle of kids, other pets, and everyday family life. Also, it’s never too late to crate train! A crate can help break bad habits that improperly trained dogs may have developed over the years.

Plastic or metal?

Plastic kennels are good for travel, and are generally the only method of containment permitted by airlines. Metal wire dog crates are ideal for home use, however. They are generally roomier and more open. They’re also sturdier, so they will stand up to your pet’s movement/ activity and be able to last as your dog’s permanent bedroom.

What size?

A crate should only be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down. If the crate is too big, your puppy will have enough room to soil one side and sleep in the other, which defeats the purpose of the crate. Buy a crate large enough to accommodate your dog’s full-grown size and get a divider panel. This way, you can keep the one crate and have it grow along with your dog.

Accessories:

Always be sure to include appropriate toys and treats in the crate. This will keep your dog occupied and prevent your teething puppy from chewing on the crate’s metal bars. It is also important to purchase crate bedding. A crate cover is great for lowering the number of outside distractions your dog sees, which can reduce barking and stress in the crate. A crate pad will be more comfortable than the crate’s plastic pan. Finally, a bumper like the one included in Pet Dreams Cratewear will help protect your puppy from injuries caused by chewing or leaning against the crate’s metal bars.

For more information:

In addition to Cratewear, Pet Dreams provides a wealth of Crate Training Tips, articles, and FAQs to help you crate train your dog. Weve also recently launched Forums where you can discuss all aspects of training with others and get advice from the experts!

Visit http://www.petdreams.com for Dog crates, Cratewear bedding and Sleep-ezz dog beds.

More articles at article database