A horse needs care 365 days of the year come rain or shine. Any horse whether young or retired should be taken care of with respect. When you buy a horse consider who is going to take care of the horse. Are you going to be the one to go out in the rain or snow to feed him and make sure he has water? If the thought sends a chill through your bones, you may want to board your horse at a facility, so someone else has the responsibility to care for your horse.

A horse/pony needs approximately 2.5% of its body weight in food per day. Horse feed mainly consists of hay(grass) and hard feed. Your horse should be fed according to his workload. A horse that has free access to a field 24 hours a day and is seldom ridden can maintain his weight with a small amount of hard feed versus grass. Where as a horse which is stabled most of the day and ridden daily will require more hard feed.

Here are some feeding Tips:
Feed only good quality hay and feed
Store your feed away from water to prevent mold
Feed your horse plenty of fiber (bulk)
Provide a constant supply of clean, fresh water
Make any feeding changes gradually
Feed according to the age of your horse and the amount of exercise he gets
Overfeeding grain to a horse can lead to a serious case of gas colic and cause your horse to suffer from severe abdominal pain
Wash feeding mangers and buckets regularly
Horses should have three meals a day instead of one large meal
Allow your horse the time to digest his food before exercising him(wait an hour or more)

One of the most important ways to avoid colic is to feed your horse regularly. Feed good quality fiber (hay), make sure you open a bale and smell it before offering it to your horse. If the hay smells moldy or looks dusty do not feed it to your horse. Ingesting bad hay can be fatal to animals.

On average most horses can consume three flakes of hay per day. When riding your horse only on weekends or sporadically buy a food that is non-heating and formulated for low energy. Few pleasure horses need more than a cup of grain or horse feed several times a week. If your horse is looking pudgy you may need to cut back on his hay or check with your veterinarian to make sure he is getting the correct quantity of hard feed (grain/pellets).

If your horse competes in shows or you go on a lot of arduous trail rides, you will need to feed more grain or pellets. Talk to your veterinarian about how much grain your horse should have before you give him this type of feed on a daily basis. Professional advice can prevent a very pudgy horse or a difficult horse to handle due to overfeeding. It is important to your horses performance and health that you know what to feed him and how to feed him. Talk to your veterinarian about giving your horse vitamin and mineral supplements to be sure all of his nutritional needs are being met.

Your horse guide. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about horse health.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Yoga DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this months e-book on How To Spot A fraudulent Email. Grab your free copy today.

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A zoonotic disease, loosely defined, is a disease that can be transmitted from an animal to a human. These diseases can be transmitted by direct contact, by vectors or by the consumption of animals and/or animal products.

While many animal diseases are zoonotic, we are going to highlight some of the more common ones caused by worms.

A) Hookworm (Ancylostoma caninum)

These are distributed worldwide and are found wherever dogs live.

In dogs they can cause anaemia(bloodloss), weight loss, loss of appetite, poor growth,bloody stools, coughing and localised skin inflammation, especially of the feet, legs and abdomen.

In humans they are responsible for a condition known as Cutaneous Larval Migrans. The migration of the larval stages causes localised skin inflammation, especially in the lower leg region

Preventative measures include:

1) Regular removal of dog faeces from the environment and avoiding contact with dog faeces and soil contaminated with dog faeces.
2) Disinfection of Kennels etc
3) Regular Deworming (pets and people!)
4) Basic Hygiene – washing hands after playing with dogs, before meals etc.

B) Roundworm (Toxocara canis) are also distributed worldwide.

Usually only dogs up to about 8 months old are infected. Symptoms include poor growth, weight loss, pot bellied appearance, coughing, occasional vomiting, slimey diarrhoea with worms sometimes visible.

In humans they are responsible for a condition known as Visceral larval Migrans. The larvae migrate through the body and the symptoms experienced by the person depend on where the larvae end up in the body.Common symptoms include a fever, muscle pains, coughing, loss of appetite, blindness (usually only one eye) etc.

Prevention is the same as for hookworm.

C) Toxoplasmosis

Toxoplasmosis is one of the best known of the zoonotic diseases that involve pets and is the disease that leads many pregnant women to (unfairly) toss the pet cat out the door!

Although cats play a major role in the life cycle of Toxopllasma gondii, the causative organism, humans can in fact become infected 3 different ways, only one of which is direct contact with cat faeces.In fact, cat ownership is not a big factor for human infection with Toxoplasma.

The three ways that humans can become infected:

1) Eating undercooked meat
This is THE major route of infection for humans, NOT contact with cat faeces. In one study , up to 60% of infections were as the result of the consumption of undercooked meat.

2) Transplacental Infection
The foetus is infected while still in the uterus. This infection is the result of the mother becoming infected during pregnancy.

3) Ingestion of the organism shed in cat faeces.

Preventative measures thus involve cooking meat properly, wearing gloves when gardening, washing hands and utensils after working with raw meat and cleaning litter trays out daily.

Zoonotic diseases are a real threat to humans, but in most cases a little common sense and basic hygiene practices will prevent you becoming infected with any of these diseases.

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French bulldogs trace their origin back to England. Most of the French dogs today are descendents of English bulldogs

The French warmed up to the strange-looking creature and began rearing the dog within their country. Over the years, the French bulldog acquired its own characteristics, and it now looks different from its English ancestors. The French bulldog has front facing, rounded bat ears and a very lively expression. It is a stocky creature and weighs around 28 pounds. French bulldogs normally have a medium sized muscular body and bright expressive eyes.

French bulldogs have unique, upright bat ears. They are genial dogs, with a happy look about them. In fact, it does appear that they constantly have a smile on their faces. With short and stout legs, short tails and ears, they come in a variety of colors — the most common being a mix of black and brown. As is common with their breed, they do not require much grooming. Their coat is short, dense and smooth they may be said to be maintenance free.

French bulldogs are good watchdogs, and they are a friendly breed. They make friends quite easily and are happy to wag their short tails at strangers. They have an out-going personality and are generally warm and affectionate. They adapt easily to a new environment and like to receive attention from their owners.

French bulldogs are difficult to breed. As a result, there are not too many of them around. The litter of a French bulldog at the most bears three pups. They mature slowly and their life span ranges 12 and 14 years. As with their English counterparts, French bulldogs are sensitive to heat. They are not the sort of a dog that can be left alone in a car for they may get overheated. They are extremely intelligent and often end up as permanent fixture in the life of their owners.

Bulldogs provides detailed information on Bulldogs, English Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, American Bulldogs and more. Bulldogs is affiliated with Dog Fleas.

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If you are a beginner and you love animals and other living things, tropical fish is a rewarding, challenging, but sometimes pricey hobby. If you dont like a challenge and just want something easy to care for, I imagine a goldfish is a good bet. A Beta is a nice choice also. They are pretty, colorful fish and easy to care for. Theyre also fun to watch when they see theyre reflection in the aquarium or bowl. They puff up and try to charge and attack their own image. Sometimes it looks like theyre marching back and forth like sentry. You can only keep one in an aquarium or bowl, however, or they will try to kill each other. Another name for the Beta is Siamese fighting fish. Putting other tropical fish in with the Beta isnt a good idea either. The Beta will bite off chunks of the other fishes fins and otherwise terrorize them.

I have had aquariums on and off through my life since 1977 and now have three. Tropical Fish are found in tropical surroundings around the world, including both freshwater tropical fish and salt water species. Freshwater tropical fish are the more popular of the two and the freshwater tropical fish themselves are very inexpensive. Due to their often bright coloration, salt water fish are admired by hobbyists because of their exotic appearance. However they are more expensive and a great deal more difficult to care for.

It can be extremely enjoyable building and sustaining a cozy environment for your fish. It can give you much satisfaction making sure, for instance, that the water hardness, ammonia, ph, and nitrate levels are all normal. Sometimes I feel like a scientist using the test kits and test strips to monitor the water. If you find a good water siphon to do your water changes, it can be a piece of cake. An inferior water siphon can make a mess.

Another significant part of the aquarium environment would be the ornaments. Placement of the ornaments is important not only for aesthetic purposes, but also the fish need a place to hide. Sometimes fish are shy at first or they become stressed by being chased by aggressive fish. The same is true when you introduce new fish. Also, I find they like to hide for a few hours after a water change which must seem very invasive to their world. I have three aquariums and I always place the ornaments in a corner with the plants behind it. You can still see the fish weaving in and around the plants and peaking through any opening in the ornament(s).

To avoid killing your new freshwater tropical fish, it is essential that you set up your aquarium days beforehand. Creating and maintaining a virtual natural environment within the aquarium should not be a problem as long as a balance is being maintained. Most of the aquariums you find in pet stores have everything you need. Just follow the directions. The directions dont, however, tell you what you need to do with the water. You will always need a water conditioner. After you have given your aquarium a few days to set up, some pet stores will test your water for free and advise you on what you need to do to correct any problems. The aquariums in this website are also worth considering. These aquariums are quite unique and aesthetically pleasing. Once your simulated environment has been achieved, the fascination of watching your fish develop and interact is a reward in itself and well worth the time and effort taken.

I clearly state here that I am not an aquatics expert; I am a hobbyist and love animals. The subject of this article is not exhaustive. The documents herein are based on my experience and research. Therefore I am not liable in any way for how this information is used. There are lots of articles on the web or talking with your local pet store might be a good idea if you have any questions.

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Reticulated Pythons are the longest species of snake in the world, adult females often reaching 18feet plus. The longest recorded is approximately 33feet. Their large size has made them a very talked about snake, regularly coming into the pet trade. Unfortunately, for many keepers their sheer size eventually proves too much. They often become tame with handling, but are quite a jumpy and unpredictable species and very aggressive feeders. Adult females can grow to over 20ft, more commonly 15-18ft. This is a formidable force coming at you if they smell food. Captive bred Reticulated pythons can make wonderful pets if they are given the right conditions and are in the hands of a devoted, experienced reptile keeper. They are not for the beginner. Even a tame Retic must never be under-estimated and should be treated with great respect.

For lovers of these huge pythons who cannot afford the space that they need, there are a number of Dwarf species which have become common on the market today. Jampea and Kayuadi Dwarf Retics are the more commonly seen. Jampea Retics are known to reach approximately 13feet, while the Retics from the Island of Kayuadi are known only to reach 9feet.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snakes life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Reticulated python, a vivarium 3m Length x 1m Width x 1.5m Height is ample. These pythons are one of a few species which are generally not worried about the size of their enclosure. The more room you can provide; the better. Many keepers decide to dedicate a whole room to their beloved python. Other keepers may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and ceiling of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will cut down the costs of building and allow for a larger space for the python.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Retics, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 SSSHHH factors:

1)Safety Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2)Secure Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3)Size Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4)Heating Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5)Humidity Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?

6)Hygienic Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Dcor

Dcor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing dcor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your dcor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Retic is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and dcor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per metre in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Reticulated Pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-94F while the cool end should be approximately 80-84F. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large Reticulated Pythons enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. If a room is used, 2 or 3 of these heating areas may be needed. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large Reticulated Pythons, if so, they should not be accessible to the python.

Lighting

Retics are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snakes enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12 up to 48 and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium. In a room-sized enclosure, a few may be needed.

Humidity

Reticulated Pythons occur in South East Asia and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 60-70% humidity range will allow to snake to slough its skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered small mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Reticulated Python should be converted to larger food items such as rabbits. One of these every 3-4 weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for egg production, or just after they have laid. An egg-laying female should be fed double the normal amount for several weeks after they have laid. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snakes weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

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Are you thinking about getting some discus then and want to know a little about them. Have you been to the aquatics and seen some lovely colourful discus in there show tanks. A lot of people will tell you that discus are only for advanced fish keepers but in my experience they are easy to keep as long as you follow some basic rules.

First of all, discus require clean water free of chlorine and heavy metals. You may be best to invest in a water purifying unit. Make sure the water is on the soft and acidic side. pH between 6.0 and 7.5 with a general hardness between 5 and 15. Now is you want to been them these will have to be lower.

The water should be well filtered but slow moving and be heated at around 82 86F.

Another point to cover is that discus are best suited to large deep aquariums as they commonly grow to around 6 or 7 inch. They prefer to be in shoals of no less than 6 when they are growing up.

They can be kept in bare tanks but benefit from bog wood and plants as these help the discus feel safe knowing they have some where to hide. If they get stressed and scared in a bare tank they can dash around and damage there selves.

Ideal tank mates for discus include small tetras from South America i.e. neon tetras. They are also ok with various cat fish and plecs but please make sure the discus is the largest fish in the aquarium.

Discus can be fed on most aquarium foods and practically like sinking pellets. They also like frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp. Young discus should be fed 3 times a day and adults just once.

I hope you have enjoyed this article and learned a little bit more about discus fish. If you would like more information on discus fish please visit my site http://www.discus-fish-secrets.com

Rob Clarke owns Discus Fish Secrets website helping begginners and advanced fishkeepers with discus problems inluding keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more discus information

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Sometimes puppies are born that can’t suckle properly, and it’s almost alway’s because they have a cleft palate. A cleft palate can be a complete division up the middle of the palate, or roof of the mouth, or it can just be a small hole in the palate.

Canine cleft palate is a failure of the two sides of the palate to fuse correctly during the embryonic stage of developement. It can just be the soft tissue, in which case it only presents as a cosmetic malformation, but if the hard palate is affected, it inevitably spells doom for the new born pup. A cleft pale in dogs can be either a genetic defect, or due to something occuring during the developement of the embryo. Surgical correction of cleft palate

All puppies should be examined for a cleft palate as early as possible, by opening the jaws and looking at the roof of the mouth. If the breed is very small, it may be necessary to get your Vet to check for you.

It is possible to correct a cleft palate surgically, however the pup must be old enough to undergo an anaesthetic, so in the early stages of it’s life the puppy will need hand feeding with a stomach tube.

Cleft palate of the outer soft tissue, sometimes called canine hare lip, can repaired surgically at about six months of age. Small holes in the roof of the mouth can self correct as the pup grows older, but may also be corrected surgically if so desired.

Russell Savige has been a professional dog breeder for 18 years. He is the owner of Training Dog Breeds, a high content website of dog related articles, and also the home of a Directory of over 16,750 dog related websites of breeders, clubs, trainers, vendors, shelters and rescues.

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Ticks on a dog (or any animal or human) can be a serious problem. These wingless parasites are not insects, but are actually related to mites and spiders. Many people are suprised to learn that there are over 850 tick species, about 100 of which are capable of transmitting potentially serious diseases.

The tick’s sole mission is to wait for some human or animal to brush against them so they have a wonderful new host to feed from. Because ticks can feed on many hosts, they can easily spread diseases between animals and humans. This is why it is very important for you to check your dog periodically, especially during the summer months, for any ticks that have decided to hitch a ride with your favorite canine.

Tick’s Can Spread Lyme Disease

One tick in particular that you should watch out for is the Deer Tick. This tick is about the size of a pinhead in its nymphal stage and adult deer ticks are smaller than most normal ticks. Deer ticks are known to spread Lyme disease, a multi-system bacterial infection, which often has to be treated with antibiotics. Unfortunately, some animals won’t show any symptoms of Lyme Disease although they may be infected and this can make it difficult to diagnose and treat. An additional problem is that the body does not develop an immunity to this disease, so you and your pet can be reinfected by new tick bites.

How To Remove A Tick

You must be very careful when trying to remove a tick. Do not use lighters, alcohol or any of those other home-remedy myths you hear about. Because ticks have a mouth that contain reverse harpoon-like barbs, there is really only one safe way to do this.

1. Use tweezers to grab the tick as close to the skin (and its mouth parts) as possible.

2. Pull straight up removing the tick. Do not burn or prick the tick, as it might release infected fluids. Do not twist the tweezers.

3. If a the small mouth piece remains in the skin leave it alone. It will work its way out of the skin as old skin cells slough off. If you try to pry the small mouth piece out with a needle, you may inadverdentley push it farther in, possibly causing more problems.

4. Put the tick in a small jar and label it with the person’s or animal’s name, address and date.

5. Wash your hands and the tweezers, then disinfect the bite area.

6. If possible, have the tick identified and tested by the local health department or your veternarian (in case there are further complications).

Rose Smith is the author and owner of Caring For Canines, a web site that provides information on natural dog health care. To learn more about dog skin problems, care and grooming, please visit us at: http://www.caringforcanines.com/grooming-aids.shtml

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The praying mantis is a very interesting looking creature. Usually, you can’t even see them in the wild because they blend in so much with plants. The African Mantis is becoming very popular as a pet and is relatively easy to keep.

A praying mantis can grow to be up to ten centimeters long. They come in many different color variations that range from bright green to dark brown. Occasionally, they also are a cream color. The adults have full wings and can see extraordinarily well.

If you are going to keep these creatures, you must be very careful to keep them in the correct temperature and humidity. They need to be kept in an aquarium that is pretty tall because they need height for molting. Make sure the tank is sealed so that they cannot get out, but use a well-ventilated lid so oxygen can get in. Many people end up sealing the tank so well than oxygen cannot get in and the creatures die.

At the bottom of the tank you will need to have some kind of substrate as well as twigs and branches. Make the substrate ten millimeters thick. You don’t need to make the aquarium that humid because the praying mantis gets the moisture it needs from what it eats. It is recommended that you lightly mist them though. A younger mantis needs more humidity than an adult. If you see dew on the side of the tank, then that means that the there is too much humidity in there. Don’t let the humidity get too high or your praying mantis can die. Also make sure the humidity doesn’t get too low.

In the wild, the praying mantis eats mainly insects. When you keep these animals in your home, you need to feed them every two to three days. You should feed an adult mantis crickets and grasshoppers. A younger mantis can be fed smaller insects like pinhead crickets or drosophilae. If you have more than one mantis housed together, be sure to keep them well fed or they will eat each other.

If you plan on breeding the praying mantis, the first thing you need to know is how to tell males and females apart. The easiest way to tell is to count the abdominal segments. Males have eight and females have six. Once you get a pair, feed them very well for two weeks before breeding them. If you don’t feed them enough, one will probably eat the other instead of mating. The only thing recommended for a breeding tank is a piece of diagonal corkboard. Put the breeding pair together once they have been fed for the two weeks. Watch them very closely and make sure the female is not aggressive towards the male. If she is, take out the male immediately. If they mate, the female will lay several hundred eggs. Be careful, because right after they mate the female will try to eat the male.

It doesn’t take that much work to keep your praying mantis healthy. Getting their environment right is the hardest thing to do. Once you do that, you can just enjoy watching these fascinating creatures.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

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The Duke of Gordon is known as the founding father of the Gordon Setter breed, although the dogs were known throughout Scotland and England as early as the 16th century. In the United States the Gordon Setter was entered into the A.K.C. registry in 1892. This beautiful and flashy bird dog, a hunter of pheasants, quail and other game birds, still retains a strong birdsense . In the modern world they are also adept at obedience and agility and of course are well known in the conformation ring.

Like all the hunting dogs with strong instinct, the Gordon is a dog that will thrive on plenty of exercise and chances to explore. They are not safe unless in a fenced in area or on supervised walks, as they investigate their environment with their noses and following the trail of a squirrel is second nature to them!

The Gordon Setter Club of America mentions three medical conditions which Gordon owners should be aware of. Like many of the deep chested breeds, the Gordon Setter is susceptible to Gastric torsion or bloat, which is life threatening. Also hip and elbow dysplasia can be a problem, as well as thyroid deficiency.

The Gordon Setter weighs between 50-80 pounds and is between 23-26 inches in height. This is a dog with moderate bone and should be of moderate size, as being overly large in the field is not an advantage to a hunting dog. The coat is similar in nature to that of the flat coat retriever, being a coat which lies close to the body and being slightly wavy and feathered on the legs, ears, tail and underbelly. The Gordon has a tail that is constantly wagging and in motion this tail is carried out and proudly waving as he gaits. The color of the Gordon setter is a major consideration as it follows a specific rule which can deviate very little. The dog is black with rich tan or red chestnut markings over the eyes, around the muzzle, on the throat, chest and insides of the hind legs and on the forelegs. Any other color is not eligible to compete in the show ring and should not be used for breeding.

The Gordon Setter is a fun loving and highly enthusiastic dog. They are puppies until at least the age of two, seeming to have boundless energy and enthusiasm. This is a dog which needs consistent training. However they are not considered hard headed and they do need to have a gentle but firm master. Once trained in obedience, the dog will respond well to his family and is a loyal and intensely affectionate companion. He is a dog which needs one owner or one family and does not often make overtures to strangers, being aloof but not aggressive by nature. They do not make good kennel dogs, as they are needy of human companionship. Gordon Setters are protective of children and will tolerate much from their young charges.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

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