Crate training has many huge benefits, but the biggest by far is how much easier it makes housebreaking.

Crate training works with the puppy?s natural instincts. A dog is, by nature, a den animal. He will feel comforted and safe in his crate, and he will not want to soil where he sleeps. This is your golden ticket to housebreaking. Of course, you may have to convince him that this is his bed at first.

The first few nights your puppy is home, expect he will cry and howl for you to let him out. He wants to be with you. This is natural, as is your desire to let him out. Restrain yourself. He needs to learn from the very beginning where his place is to be. If you allow him to run the house now, be prepared for the mess that will cover your floors by morning and for many mornings to come.

Crate training works very well and after the initial break-in period, his crate will be a favorite place for him to be. Once he knows it is a warm, safe place, you will often find him putting himself to bed when he is tired.

Here are some basic rules of thumb to get started:

Your puppy should be in his crate if you can?t be right with him. If you need to do something or be somewhere the puppy can?t go then put him safely in his crate.

Make sure the crate is always a pleasant place to be. Give him a favorite toy, or an old t-shirt that smells familiar to him. (Unless he is apt to destroy and eat them, then minimize what goes in with him)

Never scold him when you put him in. If he has had an ?accident? then scold him and put him outside, not in his crate.

You might even feed him in there so he associates the crate with good things.

Once he goes in at night, do not revisit him, he will settle down….eventually.

The reason that crate training works so well for housebreaking is that it encourages the puppy to ?hold it?. The puppy does not really want to mess where he sleeps. Make no mistake, he will soil his bed so make sure everything that goes in is washable. The difference is that he really doesn?t want to go there. He will tend to wait as long as he can. He will start to build control over his body this way.

It is important to mention that if the crate is too big then you are defeating it?s purpose. If he can mess far enough away from where he wants to curl up, he won?t mind going there a bit. The crate area should be plenty big for him, but not so big he has no exposure to his indiscretions.

To encourage success, make sure you take your puppy out to the yard as late as possible before you go to bed, and plan to get up with the sun to take him out again. In time he will be able to hold it longer, but when he is very young you can?t expect him to go more than several hours.

He will have to ?go? immediately on waking up. Don?t even call him to the door, just pick him up and take him out. You will eliminate many accidents this way.

He will have to ?go? about five minutes after he eats. Make sure you are ready to take him out quickly and spend time out there with him until he figures out why he is out there.

Feed your puppy often and offer water frequently. You are creating opportunity to praise! Just be on your toes and try to have him in a place where he should ?go?. The more success he has the faster he will catch on.

When he goes, praise him, praise him, praise him! Do a little dance, cheer, whatever it takes to show him you are delighted with what he did in that spot.

Conversely, fold your arms, scold, and scowl at him when he picks a spot indoors. Show him his mistake and tell him ?No?, ?Outside? and take him out where you want him to go.

If you have no yard and actually want him to pick a specific area of your home for him to go on newspapers or training pads, the same rules apply except that will be your final destination and you may say something like ?Paper? instead.

You need to be consistent with your training for this issue and all others. The more consistent you are the faster progress you will make.

If you can spend a solid 3 or 4 days at this you will probably be able to train him in a week or so. His age will be a variable however, very young puppies simply don?t have the control over their body that they will by 10 or 12 weeks.

Once you have put the crate into play it should not take more than a week until he really understands that it is a good place. You can take his crate, or his crate pad at least, any time you take him somewhere with you. He will feel right at home no matter where he is.

A crate creates a safe place to hide during thunderstorms and windstorms. You will have a safe place to put him if you have construction going on. He will have a safe place to be when fireworks are going off. If there is any doubt as to the surrounding circumstances when you are away, you can put him in his crate and know without a doubt, he will be fine. He will be there when you get home, and your home will be intact. Frightened dogs can do a lot of damage trying to escape scary situations. It is a great relief for you and him.

For more information on raising puppies http://puppys-place.com/

Laura Anderson http://puppys-place.com/

People love Pugs! There is something about that rogue-like face that tugs at your heart strings. This dignified toy breed is loved by royalty and commoners alike. These loving, intelligent, little clowns are extremely popular and ranked 12th out of 154 dog breeds registered by the American Kennel Club in 2005. The Pug is the largest of the Toy Dog Group weighing in a whopping 14 to 18 pounds.

The Pug has a fascinating history and one that is somewhat controversial. No one disputes that the English painter William Hogarth owned Pugs and portrayed them many times in his paintings. For example, Hogarth’s 1730 painting shows a black pug in House of Cards. Similarly everyone agrees that the Pug became the official dog of the House of Orange after saving the life of the Prince of Orange, by giving alarm at the approach of the Spaniards in 1572. Later when William of Orange went to England in 1688 to be crowned King William III, he took along several Pugs. So we know how the Pugs got from Holland to England but the controversy arises over how the breed got to Holland in the 16th century. One group of historians thinks the Pug was developed as a result of crossing several small Bulldogs. Another group thinks it is a miniature form of the rare French mastiff called the Dogue de Bordeaux. However the majority of historians think that the Pug originated in China and was brought back to 16th century Holland by the Dutch East India Company traders. This is the history that we will assume is true. The Pug is of Chinese origin and its development seems to pre-date the Christian era. Early records indicate that there were three types of short-nosed dogs bred by the Chinese. They were the Lion Dog (probably the Shih Tzu), The Pekingese and the Foo Dog or Pug. These dogs became very popular with Chinese royalty and the Pug breed was highly prized by the Emperors of China and lived a pampered existence. In fact, ordinary citizens were not allowed to own them. However, European traders managed to obtain some Pugs and introduce them to Europe – particularly Portugal, Spain, Holland and England which were the home countries of the traders. There, these adorable little animals became the pampered favourites of many royal families. We mentioned earlier that William III and Mary introduced Pugs to Britain from Holland when they became King and Queen in 1688 and the little dogs became a favourite at the royal court. This small dog breed was also extremely popular in the European courts and was a favourite of Napoleon’s wife, Queen Josephine of France. Later Queen Victoria of England succumbed to the Pugs charm and introduced several Pugs into her household. This British royalty love of Pugs continued down the line into the 20th century with the Duke of Windsor becoming a Pug owner. However by the time of Queen Victoria and her descendants, Pugs were no longer restricted to royalty. Members of the aristocracy became enamoured with Pugs as well.

Because the Pug was becoming very popular, English breeders were importing Pugs from other countries such as Russia, Austria and Holland. In 1860 British soldiers overran the Imperial palace in Peking and brought back a number of Pugs to England. The black Pug probably was imported at this time. Subsequent to this period, breeders established standards for the breed. In 1881, the Pug Dog Club of England was established and in 1883 the British Kennel Club formally recognized this breed club. By 1885, the Pug had been accepted for registration by the American Kennel Club but no national American breed club was created until 1931. By the beginning of the 20th century, large numbers of Pugs were exported to the United States from the United Kingdom. These Pugs were expensive – as they were still very much upper-class dogs.

Now we no longer have to be members of the royalty or the upper classes to own a Pug. Pugs are low maintenance dog breeds that require little grooming and get enough exercise playing indoors. They are well suited for apartment living. Pugs have a tendency to put on weight and should be taken for walks when the weather isn’t too hot.

Many royal and well known people have been owned by a Pug. This started with the Chinese Emperors many centuries ago and continued right up to the Dowager Empress of China who died in 1908. Many European royal families including Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife Josephine fell under the spell of the Pug. More contemporary (and quite diverse) Pug owners included Sir Winston Churchill, Valentino, Andy Warhol and Sammy Davis Jr. You can get free pictures and additional information on the Pug at Pug Pictures.

Perhaps it is time for you to consider being royally entertained by the uncommon Pug!

About the Author – Mike Mathews is a contributing writer and editor for the popular dog breed site: http://www.dog-breed-facts.com . He provides informative, real-world advice and tips on dog breeds, dog health , dog grooming and more. As well be sure to check out his free report on Dog Training.

Many dogs today suffer from itchy skin caused by a variety of factors. Dogs actually have more sensitive skin than humans, and are often exposed to a variety of irritants in their environment. These grooming tips may help alleviate your dog?s constant itching.

Brushing your dog daily will remove pollens, grasses, and other outdoor irritants as well as stimulating the skin?s circulation and preventing matting. Brush carefully and down to the skin, taking care not to tug on tangles, and using a soft bristle brush on sensitive areas.

Bathing should also be done on a monthly basis, following a thorough brushing. Use a natural, low lather, low irritant shampoo, wet your dog down thoroughly with lukewarm water, and apply the shampoo using your hands. Avoid getting water or shampoo in his eyes and ears, and lather all over, right down to his skin, then rinse thoroughly. Shampoo residue is a major cause of skin irritation for dogs. After rinsing, towel dry your dog, and avoid using any coat finishers or blow dryers, which can also cause skin irritation in a sensitive dog.

Grooming is essential for a dog?s skin health, helps you identify skin problems early on, and is a great way for you to bond with your dog as well!

About The Author

Alexandra DeBoer is the creator of a low-lather shampoo line for sensitive dogs. You can learn more about her company at: www.barknbath.com.

bow-wow@barknbath.com

Remember, GSD training is an important part of owning your dog. As a German Shepherd owner, you own one of the greatest potential athletes in the dog world. Well rounded, these dogs were created on the premise that the dog be versatile, athletic, courageous and mentally sound to excel in any activity in which they participated. Before taking your dog to the next level however, it is best to first make sure that your dog is physically fit by your veterinarian. Your vet will check your dog’s overall health and well being as well as it’s lungs, heart and joints for any potential problems.

Once you get a good bill of health from your veterinarian, the next thing to do is to start a GSD training routine with your dog. Start slowly with short exercise periods a few times daily. There are many excellent ways to build up your German Shepherd’s endurance – swimming, walking and playing fetch are all good ways to start. If your dog stops frequently, pants heavily, limps or shows any sign of pain then take heed, these are all clues that your dog is not yet ready for more vigorous activity.

There are many different types of activities and training which are available for you and your GSD to participate in. In the links below we will attempt to briefly examine and explain what each activity is and also what is involved in participating in each.

Remember, of all breeds, the German Shepherd is the most versatile. He can do it all and do it all well. Often it is the owner who must check his own limitations versus that of the GSD. Of all the various types of GSD training available, you are sure to find one or more that is right for both you and your German Shepherd.

Advanced Training and other Activities for your German Shepherd Dog

Herding and the GSD
Conformation Dog Shows and the GSD
Schutzhund Training and the GSD
Routine Boredom and Stress
GSD Obedience Training
GSD Beginning Agility

The author, a lifelong dog lover and German Shepherd owner, has been a German Shepherd breeder for over to 15 years. For more information and articles covering other German Shepherd related topics, feel free to visit: total-german-shepherd.com

Interested in other purebred dog breeds? Visit: pedigreedpups.com

Canine Diabetes: A Serious Dog Disease That is Completely Manageable

Canine diabetes is a serious disease that causes there to be too much glucose in the blood. If your pet has any of the signs, a dog health exam will help you find out with certainty. Canine diabetes symptoms usually include the following:

- drinking excessive amounts of water
– frequent urination
– weight gain (or weight loss in some cases)
– increased lethargy during the day

A simple blood test can tell the vet if the glucose counts look suspicious. You should have a full physical exam done on your dog annually, even if he seems perfectly healthy. Be sure to ask your vet to include a full blood work-up, to rule out diabetes (as well as many other diseases). It?s well worth the added cost!

If your pet has been diagnosed with canine diabetes, don?t panic. While it is a ?special needs? issue that will influence many daily decisions, it is a manageable disease in dogs. You just have to learn some simple steps and stick to a schedule.

The first goal after a canine diabetes diagnosis is to get the glucose levels down to a normal (or only slightly elevated) level. This will not require thorough dog health exams like the original blood test. The vet can draw some blood and test the levels fairly quickly, with minimal cost to you.

Canine diabetes means someone must administer insulin injections (in most cases). They are easy to do and will quickly become routine. One person in the family should be responsible for the shots, but everyone should know how to give them (age teen and up) in case of a dog health emergency. I highly recommend posting a printout of how to give the injection to your pet in every room in your house, just in case.

In our house, where we have a diabetic dog, we made a canine diabetes ?Dog Health Cheat Sheet? for potential problems, like these:

- too much insulin is accidentally injected
– the needle breaks off while in the dog
– there?s a seizure (not common, but can happen occasionally)

The cheat sheet includes the vet?s emergency number and some basic actions to take in each scenario. We made several copies to be posted all over the house, but especially by the phone, the fridge (where the insulin is kept), and the bed (where our dog hangs out a lot).

The other goal with canine diabetes is to maintain the glucose level (with your vet?s help). It is crucial to take your pet periodically to the vet for a whole day (8-hour period at least) so they can check blood sugar levels throughout the day. Just as in humans, blood sugar levels fluctuate in your pet throughout the day. Having your vet monitor and take several blood readings during a longer stretch of time helps ensure that your diabetes treatments are actually working as intended.

It?s a little more work to care for diabetic dogs, no doubt about it. But our pets are family members and we love them dearly. Right? They give us their devotion, protection, and love, so the least we can do in return is give them proper health care, especially if they have problems like canine diabetes. Going the extra mile for them will help them live happier lives with less pain and more enjoyment. Can there be a nobler goal?

John Schwartz is a freelance writer, webmaster, and dog lover. He has written many published articles on subjects that include shopping for dog supplies, improving pet health, and good dog training practices. Please visit my dog supplies website at http://www.puppies-dogs-supplies.com for more dog and puppy tips.

If you have a long-haired cat, you know the problem that cat hair can be. The cat sheds it seemingly continuously everywhere she goes. Her fur gets matted in places if left untouched. Hairballs form more regularly as the cat bathes and removes hair. These problems, while quite annoying for you, can be addressed to some extent by following these tips:

• Brush Often – It?s much easier to keep your cat?s fur soft and untangled if you brush her on a regular basis for short periods of time, rather than waiting until there?s a huge tangle that will require serious attention. This should reduce shedding somewhat over time as well, as you will have removed hair that otherwise would have been left in other places.
• Brush at the Right Time – While some cats (including mine) don?t particularly like being brushed for very long, they do seem to tolerate it more when they are distracted. I?ve taken to brushing mine right after I feed her and she is busy eating. She?ll allow me to brush her for several minutes, usually yielding a golf-ball sized clump of hair by the time she?s had enough.
• Set Boundaries – Reduce hair in unwanted places by clearly defining where the cat is allowed and not allowed to be. Reinforce by placing obstacles where the cat would otherwise sit. You can also spray a small area with perfume to deter the cat from going to that place again. Especially if done in the cat?s younger years, she should be able to learn where she isn?t allowed.

Following tips like these and your own ideas should help you solve the various problems that arise from your cat?s excess hair. Good luck!

My Lenaptalf Cat

My Cat Articles