Dogs and Cats. Eternal enemies, right? Through proper dog home obedience training you can teach your animals to live together.

The first mistake that most pet owners make when introducing their pet dogs and cats is to allow them to make their own introductions. This is a mistake! As I stated above, these two species are eternal enemies. You can?t just set one down near the other and expect great results. (Ok, I know that can happen and does happen, but my job here is to teach you about dog home obedience training. My version of training calls for prevention with dogs and cats rather than creating a problem and then being forced to fix it. As Mom used to say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.) There is a good deal of prevention that should be used before allowing your dogs and cats to co-exist.

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a home with a dog or vice versa I want you to start out the same way. Start out by using your trusty dog crate. Put your dog in the crate and allow the cat to be in the same room. There are several possible outcomes to this action :
1.Your dog shows complete indifference. This is ideal. If your dog behaves like this you will have a quick transition.
2.Your dog shows fear. This is not ideal but it will make the transition easier than some other outcomes.
3.Your dog shows nervousness and anxiety. He whines, he paces in the crate, paws at the door of the crate, etc. This behavior tells you that he wants out. There is something about that cat that is exciting and he wants to know what it is.
4.Your dog shows overt aggression. He barks, claws at the door of the crate, and he knows exactly what he wants to do with that cat. This is going to be the toughest dog to train, but it can be done.

For the first few days don?t let your dogs and cats near each other. Keep the dog in the crate. This doesn?t mean you need to keep him in the crate 24/7. When you want him out of the crate just make sure that your cat is shut off in another bedroom to avoid contact. What you hope to accomplish with this action is to train your dog to be indifferent to the cat. You want your dog to view the cat as ?background noise?. The cat is inconsequential, the cat doesn?t matter, there is nothing interesting or exciting about the cat. In other words, your dog is safely tucked away in the crate and casually observes the cat move around the house. For categories 1 and 2 this will be simple. It will take no more than a day or two for your dog to think of your cat as just another ‘thing’ in the house. Categories 3 and 4 will take more training and time.

For categories 3 and 4 you need to attach a negative association to showing cat aggression. To do this, get a spray bottle. Fill the bottle with either plain water, water mixed with lemon juice, or for very stubborn dogs, water with vinegar. At this point, your dog is still tucked away safely in the crate. The next part of training will be conducted while you are sitting near the crate, ready for action. The instant your dog shows aggression (barks at the cat, claws at the door, whines in frustration, etc.) toward the cat spray him in the face with your spray bottle. Every time he shows aggression spray him with the bottle. When he isn?t showing aggression give him soft praise, ?Good boy?.

Make sure that your dog never gets a chance to show aggression toward the cat without having a bad experience. This means that you must always be ready with the spray bottle or make sure the cat isn?t near the dog. If you aren?t vigilant and your dog has the chance to show aggression with no adverse consequence, you are training him to show cat aggression.

If you are consistent with this exercise you will soon notice that your dog will show less and less aggression while in the crate, it just isn?t worth the squirt in the face for him. You are on your way to getting your dogs and cats to co-exist.

When your feel comfortable that your dog is indifferent to the cat move on to the next step. As I said, for categories 1 and 2 this is probably one or two days after beginning the crate training. For categories 3 and 4 get your dog to the point where he is indifferent and maintains that attitude for several days if not a week.

The next step is to get your dog out of the crate and get those dogs and cats together at last! You are going to move slowly, though. Put your dog training collar and leash on your dog and make sure that he is always wearing it around the house. Keep your dog near you and allow your cat to be in the room. If your dog makes any move whatsoever to chase the cat, bark at the cat, or perform any of the stereotypical behaviors that dogs and cats do, give him a very strong correction with the leash. You want this leash correction to be a very memorable one so it must be very strong. You want to form a very negative association toward cat aggression.

Be consistent with this training. If you do this properly you will notice that your dog has less and less of a desire to chase after or bark at the cat. As you notice your dog changing his behavior give him more and more freedom by allowing him to be closer to the cat and further away from you. Eventually you will phase out the use of the dog training collar and leash.

Even if your dog isn?t showing aggressive tendencies, never let him chase after the cat in the house, even playfully.

Even some of the hardest to train dogs will respond to the above method. There exist, however, certain dogs that have such strong prey drive that only drastic measures will cure them of their desire to chase and kill cats. For these dogs I employ an electric dog training collar.

Read the instruction manual on proper fitting for your electric dog training collar. With a stubborn dog that needs an electric collar the method is simple. With the collar on his neck and turned on to a high level of stimulus you are going to correct your dog every time he even looks at the cat. As your dog even sneaks a glance at your cat press the button to deliver the correction. Don?t say ?no?, don?t react in any way, just correct him for looking at the cat. Do this as many times as it takes. Let?s examine this from your dog?s point of view. He wants to get to the cat, wants to chase, wants to kill. But the very act of looking at the cat causes him pain. You don?t tell him anything so he doesn?t associate the correction with you. He soon will learn to believe that the cat is ?evil? and he had better not even look at it because it the act of looking causes pain.

As with all training, you must be very consistent. Your dog must never have a successful chance to even chase or want to chase the cat. Be consistent, though, and soon your dogs and cats will be able to co-exist.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

The only way to be 100% sure of getting a verified pure breed Maine Coon cat is to buy a pedigree kitten from a breeder. The breeder should be able to present a family tree of your cats pedigree and provide relevant certification.

A recommended place to start a search for a reputable breeder in your local area is the Maine Coon Breed Fanciers Association (www.mcbfa.org) Maine Coon kittens can be instantly recognizable by the long tufty ears and oversized paws, as seen in the classic longhaired American however there is a European strain of Maine Coon, (my own Maine Coon, King Henry comes from a German line) which has a shorter ruff around the neck, and often a fuller, squarer muzzle. The differences are not apparent until the cat is between 12 to 18 months.

In terms of identifying a pure pedigree Maine Coon, youll be relying quite heavily on information the breeder is presenting to you. If you have difficulty finding a reputable breeder, you could try and get a recommendation by talking to individuals at a Maine Coon event or an all breeds Cat show. It is essential you are happy with your breeder – if you are becoming a Maine Coon owner for the first time, you may need to rely on their expert advice.

You can expect to pay anywhere between $500 and $800 for a pure breed Maine Coon. With food, litter, vet bills and cat-sitters for holidays, Maine Coons can be a relatively expensive investment. All Maine Coon owners will agree that they are a truly wonderful breed and will repay you many times over.

IMPORTANT TIP: This could save a lot of heartache, trouble and expense later on; When buying an expensive pet, do not go for the kitten you feel sorry for and looks like it needs help. Any kittens with signs of withdrawal, low energy or general apathy, should really be avoided. Choose an independent, lively, energetic kitten. Pick out kittens that dont necessarily come to you but are, however, interested in their surroundings.

Its best to pick a local breeder and visit them in their home, when youre first making your initial enquiries to check the kittens living conditions, health and welfare of all cats living in the same environment.

Although it sounds like common sense, have questions prepared that will help you to establish whether the breeder can be trusted.

Questions youll definitely want to ask:

1. How much experience does the breeder have? If you need assurance about the breeders ability/expertise ask to speak to someone who has recently purchased a Maine Coon from that breeder.

2. Who are the kittens parents and are they champions? Even if you dont intend to show your cat, youll still want to find out about their pedigree. Thats what you are paying for. If this is just not important, you can sometimes find cheaper Maine Coons that are called pet quality meaning they do not meet the required physical standards for showing. This does not mean they are not perfectly healthy.

3. Does the stud live with the breeder? If not, can the breeder guarantee that the stud has not been subjected to any illnesses e.g. cat flu. Has the breeder bred the stud before?

4. Is there any known heredity illnesses in the ancestral line such as HCM (can cause heart failure) and hip problems?

5. Have any of the other cats suffered from any illnesses for e.g. have any recent litters suffered from any strain of cat flu?

6. If relevant to your situation, ask if the kitten is comfortable around other animals and children?

7. At what point, could the kittens leave their mother (I would be concerned if the breeder allowed the kitten to leave its mother if it is less than 12 weeks).

8. Will a vet check the kittens before leaving the breeders home? How many times? If the Maine Coon becomes ill after it has left the breeder, who is responsible for paying vets fees or could the kitten be returned to the breeder?

9. Youll also want to find out how often the queen is impregnated; because a queen subjected to too regular pregnancies can be prone to producing weak or sickly kittens.

Other things you may want to check/do:

10. The living conditions of the stud and queens e.g. the cleanliness of the cages/rooms and the health/welfare of the cat etc.

11. Will the cats be litter trained before they move to their new homes?

12. Also, the environment where the mother and kittens are living. Are there toys, clean litter, warmth, food and water?

13. Check the eyes of the kitten to evaluate its health. Never purchase a kitten that has weeping eyes.

14. The breeders contract. Have a read of the written agreement before you commit yourself. Pay particular attention to areas of responsibility should the kitten become unwell soon after youve bought him/her.

15. You should book your new kitten in for an all round check with your own vet almost as soon as youve collected from the breeder. If there are any signs of problems, youll want to know within the first 24 hours.

On the whole, Maine Coon breeders are passionate about their cats and love what they do. Theres not a whole lot of money to be made in breeding Maine Coons, and it is very demanding work.

Unless, your gut feeling tells you otherwise, you can expect to be talking to breeders who are totally dedicated Maine Coon lovers.

Copyright 2006 Sarah Crosier

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The shih tzu with a long, flowing coat and an arrogant air is beautiful and captures the heart of many who own and professionally show the breed. Satisfaction, joy and pride can result from conditioning and growing a beautiful coat of hair for the shih tzu. For the showring, this is an absolute must. The complete protrait of a showring shih tzu is one that is draped in a long luxurious coat that has been maintained and groomed properly. This can also be accomplished by sending the shih tzu to a handler getting the shih tzu ready for the showring. If you have the time, patience and ability yourself, whether your shih tzu is a pet or a show dog prospect, you certainly are very fortunate indeed. Most likely you will receive rave reviews everywhere you and your shih tzu go.

A lot of shih tzu owners, however, do opt for the shorter cuts. In my opinion, the shih tzu is just as cute and lovely. Maintaining the longer coats is a fulltime job. It takes hours and hours of careful brushing and most often daily brushing. One of the most important aspects of the procedure is your ability to remain faithful to a schedule.

Start with good health from the inside. Be sure you keep your shih tzu free from parasites and you feed a good, quality, nutritious dog food. I highly recommend HealthyPetNet Life’s Abundance pet foods, treats and grooming supplies. I am a faithful user of these products myself and I am completely satisfied with the results evident in my shih tzu. I have a few that I try to keep in long coat. It is very time consuming, but I must admit when I see these romping around in my yard or moving about, I get an extra kind of thrill inside to behold their beauty. So I must say, a beautiful, long coat on a shih tzu is probably my favorite. I just don’t have the exact ability and time to maintain all of mine in that long coat and those I do, are still not as perfected as they could be. Personally, I have just not developed the skills to do so. I believe I have the ability. That ability has not been developed. Maybe some day…..

Whatever you feed your shih tzu, dry food is always superior. And I would think that if you are going all out for a long coat for your shih tzu, you probably will need to add some extra supplements. Again, I would recommend HealthyPetNet Life’s Abundance Daily Nutritional System, which is the dry food with a daily supplement, and add to that, their skin and coat supplement, plus add their health bar for skin and coat, which is full of antioxidants. The decision belongs to you, your vet and to your handler, if you use a professional handler or groomer.

I have found where I live that most of the groomers do not like to mess with a long coat. And when I do get this done, the expense is far greater than a simple hair cut. I do have one groomer in particular, only one I have found within driving distance who halfway was descent in combing out and grooming my long haired shih tzu. Then, the expense was so great, I could not afford using her that often. I keep most of my short at this time. The cost for me would have been at least $70 per month for one dog and that is going every two weeks. For the shih tzu lover of long, long hair, it is wise to learn how to do it yourself, yet, also you got your time and labor involved in that. Time is something most of us seem to never have enough of.

Good coats are inherited in many lines. I really do have some show dog coats of hair in my bloodlines at Stain Glass Shih Tzu, and one day I hope to be able to at least take a course in grooming. When I do, I most likely will include what I learn through the course in my articles and e-books I will offer to others. Most likely, this is coming soon. It is just not totally right it seems to not at least have one very long haired shih tzu in the crowd. For some bloodlines, to grow a long and flowing coat is impossible. You will see beautiful and cute faces, wonderful personalities still, but the coat of some of the shih tzu bloodlines just will not grow. There is no other choice in that matter but to the keep it clipped. One of the goals of my breeding program is to continually search for the bloodlines that most closely meet the AKC standard for a long, flowing coat. I am very partial to the smaller sizes, but even in those, I search for the long flowing coat of hair. My Holly, Simon, Danny Boy and Jane Jane all have this type of coat. Holly probably had the best of all. It was extremely long and thick, but guess what, time was not on my side about keeping it that way, so I had to opt for a shave down to start all over. She is still just as cute and perky, and I think she has been very happy with her new haircut. I was saddened to tears almost, but my own fault. A person has to allocate the time to grow these beautiful long coats or else hire someone else to do it for them. That is just the starting point for the entire process.

There are lots of products to help us deal with the shih tzu that do not have the better coats of hair. And as I mentioned before, HealthyPetNet products is always my first choice. There are, however, dozens of other products you can try that may suit you and your shih tzu even better. If you have the time and money, it can be a very enjoyable hobby. I have too many hobbies concerning the shih tzu right now anyway, but…..I do plan on gaining more skill at coat handling and grooming. I just recently bought my first clipper, a must for the types of work I am in at this time – raising puppies. Many times, shih tzu moms need to be completely shaven down for the sake of cleanliness and this is a routine I follow with mine. In my plans is a special grooming room with all the bells and whistles – a nice tub – tables and all the right equipment. Even for the person who has only one shih tzu, having the exact equipment needed and the lighting and tubs can be a very fun experience and much more rewarding than using the family bathtub and a small space in the corner of one very dimly lit room. I tell you what…..my plans include a nice grooming room with all the bells and whistles. I just hope I am not 95 before I can afford that. I plan to live to be 100 years old. And then, I plan an afterlife for myself, not as a shih tzu of course, but just as a soul that lives on….that’s a whole other topic however.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Weekly updates of available puppies. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

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1. Introduction:

If you have just picked up a camera for the first time, or have been taking pictures for years, the information contained in this guide will ensure that you do not overlook anything as you frame and shoot that picture. Taking your photographs to the next level, by using a few computer tools, and free clip art, we will walk you through the steps to create a picture like the one on the cover of this book as easy as 1-2-3.

At pet shows, and especially dog shows, enthusiasts like yourself pay close attention to every detail down to making sure that every hair is in place, the bows in the top knot are perfect, down to the shin on the glistening coats. The end quality of your picture is dependent upon your attention to details. Whenever we take a photograph for a client and create their unique art we do exactly the same. Starting with the right photograph is key and we will provide some often overlooked aspects of pet photography. Remember that you must start with the right photograph in order to obtain good and even great results.

2. Digital Photography Basics For Pets

There are two assumptions made here. The first is, that you are interested in color photography and the second is that you have read your camera owners manual and understand the features and capabilities at least at a basic level. With that said the intent of this guide is to help you get started with taking photographs and getting the best possible results. Before we continue, there is one thing often overlooked until it is too late that will ruin a great photograph. Shut off the date and time stamp feature. You can be sure that it will always take away from the picture or be in the wrong place where no amount of editing can account for it.

2.1. Picture Quality

The focus here is to start with the best of everything possible and use your camera to the fullest. This does not mean that you need to spend $2000 on a camera and special lenses, but it does mean taking advantage of the best capabilities your camera provides. Even a $100 camera can create good small prints. After you understand your cameras feature menu and how to navigate it, go back and re-read the picture quality section again. Once you understand that section set your camera to the BEST modes possible.

Many cameras have resolution settings similar to Normal, Better, Fine, and quality settings of Good, Better, Best. Select the Fine and Best modes or what ever your camera calls the highest quality and highest resolution modes. You can always reduce the resolution and quality later if needed, but you can never improve it. Starting off with the best quality photograph gives you the best possible chance of having a great photograph and piece of art. This becomes even more important when making larger prints or even posters. As you increase picture quality, your memory card will fill quicker and be able to store fewer images. Be sure that you have a large enough memory card or multiple cards. Remember, you do not want to run out of storage when your pet is doing something that will look great on that next Christmas card, so be sure to have that extra 512M or 1G card handy

2.6. Lens Filters and Shades

If you must take photographs in bright sun, such as at an outside farm and pet show, use a lens shade and force flash to overcome the harsh sun. One alternative to use especially if your flash is not powerful enough, is a polarizing filter instead of the flash. The polarizing filter is one of the most useful filters for outdoor photography and is a requirement for any serious photographer, especially for those that use a digital camera. A polarizing filter will reduce the glare and make colors stand out more in harsh sun conditions. These filters can significantly reduce white-outs or wash-outs (surfaces with the primary color all washed out) due to bright reflections. An example of this would be your golden lab having a whitish back, and dark murky looking legs lacking in detail. Some photograph flaws can be edited out and touched up, however, these flaws are nearly impossible to eliminate after the fact and make the editing look natural.

A second important tool to have in your camera bag is a lens shade. A lens shade is inexpensive and is attached on the end of your lens to keep excess light from directly entering the lens. It basically provides a tunnel that shields the optics (lens), and due to its black color absorbs any bouncing light. This helps the camera to better detect the light levels of the subject.

3. Express your Pets Personality Through Creative Art

People find many ways to express their personality, whether it is through sports, music, art, or another outlet. In any case, the creative nature that we have comes to the surface once we have the tools and have developed ability to accomplish this. One area that has continued to grow as a result of technological advancement is with computer enhanced graphics. Faster home computers coupled with programs such as Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator have taken the high end graphics work once limited to corporations to smaller businesses. The most basic photo manipulation is to correct flaws in the picture, which can be expanded to the more advanced creation of fantasy scenes, such as overlaying multiple images and the addition of special effects.

4. The Photo Shoot – The Tricks of Understanding Your Pet

Now that you have a general understanding of how to use your camera, lets focus on where, when, and how to get the optimum environment. There are some things in our control, and others that are not, and at any one time they can change. It is important that we discuss each element so you can decide what to do given your situation. These elements are lighting, the location, and the position of the pet. If you are restricted to a specific time of day outside, then you many not have any control over the lighting, or do you? If you are photographing the pet at a show such as walking around the judging stage, you are probably limited to the camera position and location. Ideally you want the best lighting, optimum flexibility with positioning the camera. Lastly if you are going to remove the background from the final print, the cleanest background for editing is desirable. This section will help you take advantage of any flexibility and optimize your shoot given the environment

4.1. Pick The Right Lighting

Given that we are focusing on color photography, proper lighting is essential. In fact proper lighting actually means LOTS OF LIGHT, and the correct type of light. Without proper lighting it is nearly impossible to have an award-winning photograph, even one that has been touched up with the best photo editing tools. When it comes to lighting you want to have an even distribution of light over the entire surface of the pet, including the underside areas. This light illuminates all areas, is not harsh or glaring and does not cause shadowing. Light that is at a low-angle such as parallel to 30 degrees above the ground, or when outside, sun rise or sun set is often the best. This low-angle light covers the side surfaces of the pets’ body with light. Light that is high in the air, such as overhead lights, or when outside sun light that is high in the sky such as that mid-day harsh sun should be avoided. This harsh light results in the top surfaces being washed out, and the lower areas being dark with excessive shadowing. The ultimate goal is low angle, soft, evenly distributed light that illuminates the entire pet. Also remember when to keep the light source or the sun behind you and watch out for your own shadow!

4.5. Picking The Location

You need to determine if the photo session will be indoors or outdoors, and once that is decided you need to optimize the environment as much as possible to make the pet at ease. Before the pet is there, take a good look all around and make sure that the area is clean, organized, and there are minimal distractions. Distractions can be toys, a left over newspaper lying around, and even a tree branch. You will be in competition with all of these distractions for the pets’ attention. Unless you have a sleeping dog you are photographing, you will always be in competition with the environment. Now the dog may be well trained and stay where you put them, but their attention may still be elsewhere. You also want to remove any items that could complicate the photo editing later on.

The intent for many of the photographs used in fantasy scenes is to remove the background and have the pet stand alone. It is important that nothing sticks up in front of any part of the pet that can cause an obstruction. Unless your final print will be of your pet in a grassy field, do not take your pictures of your dog laying on a lawn or grassy field. The blades of grass will hide the bottom of the paws or any part of the dog that is in close to the round

4.9. What Photographs Should You Take – Getting inside your pets head

It is recommended to initially start by letting your pet act naturally in the environment and study how it acts and responds to whatever stimulus is there. This will allow you the opportunity to get inside of your pets head and over time possibly predict how they will act. Remember that many pets will see the camera equipment around and sense the extra attention making them want to get even more attention. Over time they will forget that you are there and start to focus on the elements in the environment, including even laying down on that special pillow. The idea is to have your pet at ease and capture that natural moment. This will require you to be patient and continue to snap the shutter hoping to capture that special moment. Even in as little as 10 minutes you will understand the pets’ personality and be able to now stage that specific photo.

5. Basic Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator Introduction

For most photography work and picture manipulation you will be using Adobe Photoshop or other similar photo editing tool. If you will be creating large prints greater than 11×17 with text, you should use an illustration tool that provides good text and layout capabilities such as Adobe Illustrator. With these two types of tools you can create fantastic and artistic pictures, and then include them in professional looking layouts. The intent of this section is to provide some starting guidelines to create some of the basic pictures that are displayed on www.PalmieriConcepts.com. Keep in mind that the guidelines and steps provided here have been generalized, however, they will point you in the right direction to create a great picture. The references in this section are referring to Photoshop, so if you are using a different photo editing tool, you will need to find the equivalent features.

Note that to better demonstrate the techniques, the photographs used are not the best and did not follow all of the rules in the previous sections. For example, there are poor lighting and lack of detail to emphasize the use of the tools and techniques.

So to get started, take what you have learned here, get out that camera and have fun.

The selections of text are excerpts from the Ebook titled Pet Photography and Graphic Arts by Anthony Palmieri at www.Palmiericoncepts.com

Anthony Palmieri founded Palmieri Concepts after 20 years of creating custom artwork for his own pleasure and enjoyment. This business grew out of a love for motor vehicles and was started to share with others what began as a hobby. After taking his own pride and joys (yes this really started with family pictures and not cars) and combining them with creativity, it became obvious that many others would like to showcase their loves as he has done.

In addition to the custom artwork, he has also written numerous articles on automotive art and car shows covering topics from custom show boards, to automotive theme garages. Links to some of these articles can be found on http://www.PalmieriConcepts.com web page. His goal was to create a business where each and every one of his works of art are custom done just for you with the intention that it would be something that he would display on his own walls. Many of the custom pictures that he has created can be seen displayed at his house.

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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Understanding today’s Yorkshire Terrier means looking at this dog?s ancestry. There seems to be little disagreement about the way in which the modern Yorkshire Terrier came to be. Even though there are no records of the earliest relatives of the Yorkie it’s widely believed that the breed is estimated to is just over 100 or so years old. The Yorkshire Terrier of the past was much larger than today’s terriers. It’s surprising but the early versions of today’s Yorkies were working class dogs.

From the 11th Century there was a rule that laborers were not allowed to hunt. In order to prevent hunting laborers were not allowed to own a dog big enough to be able to hunt. Dogs had to pass through a small hoop (7 inches in diameter) to prove that they were small enough. It was originally bred to be a hunting dog, catching rats, rabbits and mice to supplement their poor owner?s diet.

Before the beginning of the Industrial Revolution people lived in small communities and grew up around factories and mines. With the Industrial Revolution came great changes to family life. People were drawn to the cities seeking work and a better life.

These people brought with them the Paisley Terrier; who were mainly working dogs who used to catch rats and other small animals.

The Paisley Terrier, or Clydesdale Terrier was crossed with other types of Terriers. The English Black Terrier, the Tan Toy Terrier and the Skye Terrier. The Maltese was also crossed with these to produce long coats, and a smaller stature. You can still see the similarity in shape between the Maltese and today’s Yorkies. There aren’t any records about the early pedigree to confirm these crosses. There were low levels of literacy and this led to poor record keeping. It is believed that this is the most likely of the crosses.

The father of the modern Yorkie is said to be a dog called Huddersfield Ben. Bred by Mr. Eastwood and owned by Mr. Foster; this was a very popular stud dog who had a great influence in the modern breed. He won many competitions and is believed to have set many of the standards for his breed type.

The British Kennel Club registered the first Yorkies in the British Kennel Club Stud Book in 1874. The American Kennel Club started recognizing Yorkshire Terriers as a breed in 1885. The first Yorkshire in 1910 was the first specimen seen in a German speaking area. Known as Halifax Terriers these dogs shared the appearance of the Yorkshire Terrier which to this day has changed very little. The breed standards for the Yorkshire Terrier have hardly changed. There are some small changes but these relate directly to the new knowledge in matters of canine health.

The Yorkshire Terriers of today are brave, loyal and energetic. A loyal guard dog who will be suspicious of strangers and defend their territory. Yorkies like to bark but with good training they can be taught not to. Some of the cross breeding which results in tiny teacup varieties can cause health problems for today’s Yorkshire terriers. Often their skulls are too small and this results in a range of respiratory problems.

It is widely agreed that the breeding of such Teacup varieties is cruel and causes all kinds of health and behavioral problems. Be responsible and buy one of the more accepted varieties. If you are intending on breeding your Yorkshire terrier keep this in mind when choosing a sire.

Today’s Yorkies are energetic, fun and a delight to have around. They will keep you entertained for hours and years to come.

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu?s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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Recall with the Gundog

With regard to training issues rather than behavioural problems, I am asked to correct recall more than any other problem, especially with working and gundog breeds. We are told that some breeds are un-trainable or that they can never be trusted off the lead. Beagles fall into this category, as do some of the Terrier breeds. I do not subscribe to this myth I believe all dogs can be trained but only up to their inbred ability

Instinct
Border Collies are supposed to be the most intelligent of all the breeds, but surely, intelligence is relative. I doubt if anyone could train a Collie to win a field trial championship or a Labrador to win One Man and His Dog.

The problems we see with some of the hunting retrieving breeds is that instinct takes over, that instinctual trait reduces some of the senses, the one that is often detuned or switched off is hearing.

We imagine our dogs can always hear us clearly, that it is selective deafness or stubbornness that is the cause of dogs ignoring recall commands. In actual fact genetics often takes over, without early counter conditioning we cannot cut through the desire to hunt to initiate the recall.

We also show this behaviour. Imagine you are watching a brilliant wildlife or shooting program, then someone starts talking about shopping, we hear the sounds but often do not understand the content. Our brain has detuned it out; we are not being rude or ignorant (though try telling the OH that,) the brain is genetically hard wired to react this way.

However if we were specifically trained to react to an audible cue/signal rather than words then we would shift our attention to the person emitting that signal much more readily.

I am sure we have all read the books or been told we should not start training our dogs until six months or in some cases a year; that is totally incorrect. Dogs learn more in the first 16 weeks than the rest of their life. It is at this time that dogs are at their most receptive, they soak up information and experiences like sponges.

Whistle Introductions
Often, we introduce whistle commands far too late in the puppies training cycle. Starting pups very young on the whistle for recall and the sit pays huge dividends, yet we often do not take this opportunity. Introduce the whistle as early as possible by associating exciting and pleasurable experiences very early on, even whilst still with the mother. Pups will readily respond to the recall whistle by seven or eight weeks old. I have seen litters of six-week-old pups scamper to the whistle in excitement.

When puppies associate experiences with the whistle in a positive manner, they will respond positively to their reward of affection, food, treats, or a game, always make the whistle something positive. The same is true of the sit. Pups can consistently comply with this whistle command by twelve weeks old. They will eagerly sit on the whistle when the reward is good and the commands are given consistently.

Start by preparing the dogs food and getting someone hold the pup 10 or 12 feet away blow your normal recall and get the helper to release the pup. Extend this by getting your helper to hold the pup in another room and repeating the process.

Allowing the puppy to become more mature before introducing the whistle is not conducive to a good recall response in later life. At six-month-old, pups pay little no heed to their owners recall commands, making the training more difficult. Likewise, once the pup has developed in basic training and is charging in hard on retrieves, whistle controls are much more difficult to introduce.

Early Reinforcement
Imagine that your dog?s brain is a CD. Written to that CD are the breeder and their family the mother, siblings and any other dogs the breeder has. Then you and your family There is nothing on that CD that says if he runs away; it will be far more interesting than staying with you. So leave off the extendable lead the dogs not going anywhere it will stick like glue to almost your every move. The first time you take your dog into the big wild world, which should be as early as possible, you should let him off. Make sure you pick a safe place without too many distractions or other dogs and their should be plenty of trees.

Now what is vitally important is that the dog gets a slight feeling of anxiety when he cannot see you. Move upwind, then whilst he is distracted, quickly hide behind something, like a tree or a fence, he will eventually look up and start to panic, allow this to happen for a short while, he will eventually run around and hopefully pick up your scent and find where you are hiding. When this happens, make a big fuss and give a treat.

If he does not find you fairly quickly blow your whistle and show yourself, praise and treat when he runs up to you, a valuable lesson will have been learned. He will not think you have hidden but will think you have gotten lost; this will instil the need to keep you in view at all times.

These initial reinforcements are critical, however if you want to use you dog to pick up in later life you can introduce the ethos of track and retrieve out of sight, but with tight recall when necessary.

Lead Work
Call your puppy to you and put the normal lead on three or four times during every walk, then he will not learn that the lead means end of walk ie end of fun. We have all seen the dogs that dance around 5/6 feet from their owners at the end of the walk, they have actually taught the dogs this frustrating habit by only ever putting the lead back on at the end of the walk.

Rectifying Recall Problems
If you are already having recall problems then you need to go back to basics you will need to initially practice the sit stay command at home.

To set this well the dog should be on a lead preferably 5 foot long with a Jingler ?see my website for this device? Get the dog to sit with the dog on your left side holding the lead in you left hand. Using the cupped palm of your right hand bring it to the dogs nose saying ?Stay? three times. Swivel in front of the dog so you are facing it pick up the loop of the lead but make sure you keep your left hand on the lead as well, this is your control hand, slowly back up to the length of the lead with the left hand about as third of the way back up the lead.

If your dog moves or tries to follow, lift the lead upwards with your left hand and say ?Stay?. This will activate the Jingler, Keep repeating until you think the dog has the message, then start dropping the lead and moving further backwards. If your dog starts moving, you have gone too far to fast, therefore shorten the distance again. Do this about three times a day for about five minutes per time.

Practice this till you can move 100 feet away without the dog moving then after a couple of days call your dog to you every third time, use either the Whistle, Come, Here or his name. Only treat the best stays and the best results.

Once you feel you have mastered this, it is time to use the lunge rein. Practice the sit stay in the park or field but this time with the 35 foot horse lunge rein; take a friend who will hold the dog whilst you hide behind a tree or fence then call the dog, when he finds you give him a favourite treat and repeat the exercise.

After a couple of days allow the dog to walk free but with the lunge rein still kept on dragging behind, keep standing on it at different lengths whilst issuing the recall command, so the dog thinks you are in control at all distances.

If the dog takes off after a bird or another dog; either stand on the lead or pick it up to stop the charge. The dog will get the message that you are in control and cease chasing after a while. During all of this work, we must give the dog lots of praise and treats. After a few weeks of keeping the lunge rein on you can reduce it down by putting on a normal lead then after a few more weeks remove it completely.

As always, the best strategy for training is to set your dog up to succeed and to not condition in a problem that will have to be rectified later on in the training.

Stan Rawlinson

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times.

He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers

Why use a crate:

When used properly and not abused, crates are the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Dogs are den animals that will instinctively seek out a small, cozy place to rest for shelter and security. Crates act on a dog’s instinct to keep its den clean and unsoiled. Keeping your dog in a crate teaches him to hold it until he can go in an appropriate place, which helps your puppy develop his bladder control. For older dogs, crates act as a bedroom where they can relax and escape the hustle and bustle of kids, other pets, and everyday family life. Also, it’s never too late to crate train! A crate can help break bad habits that improperly trained dogs may have developed over the years.

Plastic or metal?

Plastic kennels are good for travel, and are generally the only method of containment permitted by airlines. Metal wire dog crates are ideal for home use, however. They are generally roomier and more open. They’re also sturdier, so they will stand up to your pet’s movement/ activity and be able to last as your dog’s permanent bedroom.

What size?

A crate should only be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down. If the crate is too big, your puppy will have enough room to soil one side and sleep in the other, which defeats the purpose of the crate. Buy a crate large enough to accommodate your dog’s full-grown size and get a divider panel. This way, you can keep the one crate and have it grow along with your dog.

Accessories:

Always be sure to include appropriate toys and treats in the crate. This will keep your dog occupied and prevent your teething puppy from chewing on the crate’s metal bars. It is also important to purchase crate bedding. A crate cover is great for lowering the number of outside distractions your dog sees, which can reduce barking and stress in the crate. A crate pad will be more comfortable than the crate’s plastic pan. Finally, a bumper like the one included in Pet Dreams Cratewear will help protect your puppy from injuries caused by chewing or leaning against the crate’s metal bars.

For more information:

In addition to Cratewear, Pet Dreams provides a wealth of Crate Training Tips, articles, and FAQs to help you crate train your dog. Weve also recently launched Forums where you can discuss all aspects of training with others and get advice from the experts!

Visit http://www.petdreams.com for Dog crates, Cratewear bedding and Sleep-ezz dog beds.

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