Vetiquette

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 26 January 2009 4:11 pm

This week my dog Kiera had to go to the vet. Ill spare you the gory details, but I can assure you, there was no doubt in my mind that something was not right with my normally perfect girl.

While I was at the Vet I struck up a conversation with the team there about some of the things they wish people would remember when they bring their pets in for care. As we talked I realized that theres some great information here especially since we shared a few giggles and a few gasps about some pretty rude behavior. Voila! A column on vetiquette.

So, here are some things, courtesy of my hard-working front-desk friends at Del Ray Animal Hospital, to keep in mind to make sure you dont find yourself on the wrong side of the vetiquette police.

1.Youre not the only one with a sick animal who is nervous at the office. Try to take into consideration the fact that every person in the waiting room has a sick animal or at least one thats not necessarily pleased to be there.

2.Remember people go to the vet for different reasons. Some may be getting over a devastating diagnosis while sitting quietly in the waiting room. Some may have just put their companion to rest after battling an illness. Even if you have the cutest puppy in the world, they may not really be in the mood to be reminded of happier times with their own pet.

3.Not everyone is a dog person or a cat person. Dont assume that folks in the waiting room want to play with your pets or appreciate being slobbered, kissed, or purred on by your pride and joy.

4.Vet Clients are entitled to the same privacy as people-doctor clients. When you head to the doctor and youre getting ready to pay, you dont expect to have other patients leaning over the counter, looking at your receipt or listening to your diagnosis, do you? When you leave the examining room, realize that it will take a bit to process your receipt and if the front desk staff is busy with another client, respect their privacy and let them finish before you elbow your way up to the desk. Remember, financial stuff that isnt yours isnt your business.

5.Dont offer treats to pets that dont belong to you. This is a plain petiquette rule. No matter where you are, please dont feed someone elses dog or cat. Even if it is your pets favorite homemade liver treat. Remember, one of the reasons that pet may be at the vets office can be tummy trouble!

6.Keep your cat in the carrier. I thought this was a no-brainer, but Ive been assured that there are lots of people who insist that Pookie just hates the carrier and is perfectly behaved in all situations. Generally this assurance is coming as the owner is proudly watching Pookie walk across the front desk.

7.You are as important as the next person. Meaning, you and your pets needs are of equal importance as those of every other client at the clinic. Speaking rudely, disregarding rules (like cats in the carriers), and pushing other clients paperwork out of your way do not make you a more important pet-owner. In fact, it may make some people utter, theres an attitude only a pet would love!

The staff at every clinic goes out of their way to treat each and every pet with care, attention and tenderness. Sharing that attitude with your fellow vet clients can go a long way to keeping you out of vetiquette jail!

(c) 2006 Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of Peggie’s Pet Services (one of the Regions BEST pet-care companies, as rated by The Washingtonian Magazine.) She’s also an engaging and lively speaker on topics related to the love affair between dogs and their humans. She’s an advocate for happy and healthy homes for all species and is eager to assist in creating them. If you want a monthly dose of tips and golden nuggets of information on living with and caring for your pet throughout his life, be sure to subscribe to The Care of Pets at http://www.peggiespets.com. Peggie is also a pet-care business advocate and the founder of the Pet Care Business Success University, which can be found at http://www.petcareuniversity.com.

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Dog Crate Buyer’s Guide How To Choose The Right Crate And Accessories

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 26 January 2009 12:11 pm

Why use a crate:

When used properly and not abused, crates are the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Dogs are den animals that will instinctively seek out a small, cozy place to rest for shelter and security. Crates act on a dog’s instinct to keep its den clean and unsoiled. Keeping your dog in a crate teaches him to hold it until he can go in an appropriate place, which helps your puppy develop his bladder control. For older dogs, crates act as a bedroom where they can relax and escape the hustle and bustle of kids, other pets, and everyday family life. Also, it’s never too late to crate train! A crate can help break bad habits that improperly trained dogs may have developed over the years.

Plastic or metal?

Plastic kennels are good for travel, and are generally the only method of containment permitted by airlines. Metal wire dog crates are ideal for home use, however. They are generally roomier and more open. They’re also sturdier, so they will stand up to your pet’s movement/ activity and be able to last as your dog’s permanent bedroom.

What size?

A crate should only be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down. If the crate is too big, your puppy will have enough room to soil one side and sleep in the other, which defeats the purpose of the crate. Buy a crate large enough to accommodate your dog’s full-grown size and get a divider panel. This way, you can keep the one crate and have it grow along with your dog.

Accessories:

Always be sure to include appropriate toys and treats in the crate. This will keep your dog occupied and prevent your teething puppy from chewing on the crate’s metal bars. It is also important to purchase crate bedding. A crate cover is great for lowering the number of outside distractions your dog sees, which can reduce barking and stress in the crate. A crate pad will be more comfortable than the crate’s plastic pan. Finally, a bumper like the one included in Pet Dreams Cratewear will help protect your puppy from injuries caused by chewing or leaning against the crate’s metal bars.

For more information:

In addition to Cratewear, Pet Dreams provides a wealth of Crate Training Tips, articles, and FAQs to help you crate train your dog. Weve also recently launched Forums where you can discuss all aspects of training with others and get advice from the experts!

Visit http://www.petdreams.com for Dog crates, Cratewear bedding and Sleep-ezz dog beds.

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Vetiquette

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 26 January 2009 8:11 am

This week my dog Kiera had to go to the vet. Ill spare you the gory details, but I can assure you, there was no doubt in my mind that something was not right with my normally perfect girl.

While I was at the Vet I struck up a conversation with the team there about some of the things they wish people would remember when they bring their pets in for care. As we talked I realized that theres some great information here especially since we shared a few giggles and a few gasps about some pretty rude behavior. Voila! A column on vetiquette.

So, here are some things, courtesy of my hard-working front-desk friends at Del Ray Animal Hospital, to keep in mind to make sure you dont find yourself on the wrong side of the vetiquette police.

1.Youre not the only one with a sick animal who is nervous at the office. Try to take into consideration the fact that every person in the waiting room has a sick animal or at least one thats not necessarily pleased to be there.

2.Remember people go to the vet for different reasons. Some may be getting over a devastating diagnosis while sitting quietly in the waiting room. Some may have just put their companion to rest after battling an illness. Even if you have the cutest puppy in the world, they may not really be in the mood to be reminded of happier times with their own pet.

3.Not everyone is a dog person or a cat person. Dont assume that folks in the waiting room want to play with your pets or appreciate being slobbered, kissed, or purred on by your pride and joy.

4.Vet Clients are entitled to the same privacy as people-doctor clients. When you head to the doctor and youre getting ready to pay, you dont expect to have other patients leaning over the counter, looking at your receipt or listening to your diagnosis, do you? When you leave the examining room, realize that it will take a bit to process your receipt and if the front desk staff is busy with another client, respect their privacy and let them finish before you elbow your way up to the desk. Remember, financial stuff that isnt yours isnt your business.

5.Dont offer treats to pets that dont belong to you. This is a plain petiquette rule. No matter where you are, please dont feed someone elses dog or cat. Even if it is your pets favorite homemade liver treat. Remember, one of the reasons that pet may be at the vets office can be tummy trouble!

6.Keep your cat in the carrier. I thought this was a no-brainer, but Ive been assured that there are lots of people who insist that Pookie just hates the carrier and is perfectly behaved in all situations. Generally this assurance is coming as the owner is proudly watching Pookie walk across the front desk.

7.You are as important as the next person. Meaning, you and your pets needs are of equal importance as those of every other client at the clinic. Speaking rudely, disregarding rules (like cats in the carriers), and pushing other clients paperwork out of your way do not make you a more important pet-owner. In fact, it may make some people utter, theres an attitude only a pet would love!

The staff at every clinic goes out of their way to treat each and every pet with care, attention and tenderness. Sharing that attitude with your fellow vet clients can go a long way to keeping you out of vetiquette jail!

(c) 2006 Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of Peggie’s Pet Services (one of the Regions BEST pet-care companies, as rated by The Washingtonian Magazine.) She’s also an engaging and lively speaker on topics related to the love affair between dogs and their humans. She’s an advocate for happy and healthy homes for all species and is eager to assist in creating them. If you want a monthly dose of tips and golden nuggets of information on living with and caring for your pet throughout his life, be sure to subscribe to The Care of Pets at http://www.peggiespets.com. Peggie is also a pet-care business advocate and the founder of the Pet Care Business Success University, which can be found at http://www.petcareuniversity.com.

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Possesion Aggression Object Guarding

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 26 January 2009 4:11 am

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

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Hiring A Pet Sitter: Choosing The Right Care Giver For Your Pet

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Monday 26 January 2009 12:11 am

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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Westie Dogs Please Consider Adopting An Older West Highland Terrier

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Sunday 25 January 2009 8:11 pm

Everybody loves a baby animal and Westie puppies are adorable, but new dog purchasers often do not realize the commitment they are making when they bring a puppy home. For those want the companionship of Westies dogs, but do not have the knowledge or patience to endure the training process, rescuing an older Westie dog may be the right alternative.

When considering an older West highland terrier dog, the first thing that many people think is that they would be getting a dog with problems, either genetic problems common to Westies, or behavioral problems from improper training. The truth is, many Westie dogs go to shelters for reasons that have nothing to do with the dogs’ inherent qualities. Every year, dog owners die, move to retirement homes, change jobs, get divorced, have new babies, or, unfortunately, simply tire of the responsibility of caring for a dog.

The advantages of older dogs are many. They have already finished teething, and no longer feel the urge to chew holes in your shoes, rugs, and furniture. Westie dogs that are older have grown used to sleeping through the night while their people sleep, as opposed to westie puppies, who wake up and whine. Older pets will have already been housetrained and also should know the meaning of the word ‘no,’ making their continued training that much easier.

When you encounter a Westie puppy, you only have the breed standards to give you an idea of what kind of dog it will grow into. Although Westhighland dogs have a typical personality type, there are variations from dog to dog. The full-grown Westie is a know quantity. The Westie dog you meet is what you will get, and you can quickly determine if it will fit into your home.

It may seem like rescuing an older Westie provides you with an ‘instant dog,’ but that is not the case. At first they might become confused, upon arriving at a new home, and need to be reminded of their basic training. However, even allowing a few weeks of extra special care is easier and less stressful than the rigors of training a puppy.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson
webmaster@madaboutwesties.com

*****************************************
Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest
Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie Puppies
You’ve Ever Dreamed Of! Then Click Here NOW!
******************************************

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Your Child’s First Pet

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Sunday 25 January 2009 4:11 pm

Tired of hearing your child whine about wanting a pet? All parents seem to have this problem at one time or another. Many children want a pet, and its a perfect way to teach children responsibility. If youve decided to give your children the opportunity to have a pet of their own, you just have to figure out which pet is the right pet! There are a few smaller, easier to care for animals that make great first pets. These are typically a bit more affordable than bigger animals such as dogs or cats. However, with any pet, the owners personality affects the decision.

Gerbils make great pets for smaller children, as they are active during the day and are extremely curious and friendly. Gerbils are actually desert animals. They are very clean animals, which makes cleaning up after them a lot simpler. For a young childs first pet, these are perfect! Gerbils are very social animals, so a pair is definitely the way to go with these animals. However, be sure they are not mates, otherwise youd better be prepared to take care of lots of little gerbils! A large aquarium-style tank with a deep layer of wood shavings makes for a perfect home for these little creatures, as they love to tunnel and dig. To keep them (as well as your child) entertained, tunnel-type toys are great! Gerbil food is relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at any pet store. They also enjoy the occasional bit of lettuce or cheese. Gerbils usually live up to three years.

Guinea pigs are good first pets, as they dont scratch and can be gently handled. Like gerbils, theyre social creatures, so a pair is preferred. Guinea pigs are very timid, so they need lots of places to hide in their cage. An aquarium-style tank works well for guinea pigs as well, as long as they have a grazing area and places to burrow. Guinea pigs need a daily diet that his high in fiber and vitamin C. Guinea pigs live up to six years.

Most people arent entirely keen on the idea of keeping mice, but if youre looking to get one as a first pet, you should keep in mind that, like the others, they are social. Two to three female mice are the best way to go as males tend to fight and produce a much stronger smell. Cages must be cleaned two to three times a week. A wire-mesh cage works best for mice, as they need a well-ventilated living space, with tunnels and other toys. Mice need a lot of things to gnaw on, such as dog biscuits.

Though they generally have a shorter life span than gerbils or guinea pigs, mice are by far the highest maintenance. However, any of these pets are perfect for a childs first pet, and what better way to give your child a lesson in responsibility?

Amanda Baker writes for All Things Pondered

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Vetiquette

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Sunday 25 January 2009 12:11 pm

This week my dog Kiera had to go to the vet. Ill spare you the gory details, but I can assure you, there was no doubt in my mind that something was not right with my normally perfect girl.

While I was at the Vet I struck up a conversation with the team there about some of the things they wish people would remember when they bring their pets in for care. As we talked I realized that theres some great information here especially since we shared a few giggles and a few gasps about some pretty rude behavior. Voila! A column on vetiquette.

So, here are some things, courtesy of my hard-working front-desk friends at Del Ray Animal Hospital, to keep in mind to make sure you dont find yourself on the wrong side of the vetiquette police.

1.Youre not the only one with a sick animal who is nervous at the office. Try to take into consideration the fact that every person in the waiting room has a sick animal or at least one thats not necessarily pleased to be there.

2.Remember people go to the vet for different reasons. Some may be getting over a devastating diagnosis while sitting quietly in the waiting room. Some may have just put their companion to rest after battling an illness. Even if you have the cutest puppy in the world, they may not really be in the mood to be reminded of happier times with their own pet.

3.Not everyone is a dog person or a cat person. Dont assume that folks in the waiting room want to play with your pets or appreciate being slobbered, kissed, or purred on by your pride and joy.

4.Vet Clients are entitled to the same privacy as people-doctor clients. When you head to the doctor and youre getting ready to pay, you dont expect to have other patients leaning over the counter, looking at your receipt or listening to your diagnosis, do you? When you leave the examining room, realize that it will take a bit to process your receipt and if the front desk staff is busy with another client, respect their privacy and let them finish before you elbow your way up to the desk. Remember, financial stuff that isnt yours isnt your business.

5.Dont offer treats to pets that dont belong to you. This is a plain petiquette rule. No matter where you are, please dont feed someone elses dog or cat. Even if it is your pets favorite homemade liver treat. Remember, one of the reasons that pet may be at the vets office can be tummy trouble!

6.Keep your cat in the carrier. I thought this was a no-brainer, but Ive been assured that there are lots of people who insist that Pookie just hates the carrier and is perfectly behaved in all situations. Generally this assurance is coming as the owner is proudly watching Pookie walk across the front desk.

7.You are as important as the next person. Meaning, you and your pets needs are of equal importance as those of every other client at the clinic. Speaking rudely, disregarding rules (like cats in the carriers), and pushing other clients paperwork out of your way do not make you a more important pet-owner. In fact, it may make some people utter, theres an attitude only a pet would love!

The staff at every clinic goes out of their way to treat each and every pet with care, attention and tenderness. Sharing that attitude with your fellow vet clients can go a long way to keeping you out of vetiquette jail!

(c) 2006 Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of Peggie’s Pet Services (one of the Regions BEST pet-care companies, as rated by The Washingtonian Magazine.) She’s also an engaging and lively speaker on topics related to the love affair between dogs and their humans. She’s an advocate for happy and healthy homes for all species and is eager to assist in creating them. If you want a monthly dose of tips and golden nuggets of information on living with and caring for your pet throughout his life, be sure to subscribe to The Care of Pets at http://www.peggiespets.com. Peggie is also a pet-care business advocate and the founder of the Pet Care Business Success University, which can be found at http://www.petcareuniversity.com.

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Hiring A Pet Sitter: Choosing The Right Care Giver For Your Pet

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Sunday 25 January 2009 8:11 am

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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Trailering Your Horses Safely!

Posted by Snoop Dog | Cat and Dog | Sunday 25 January 2009 4:11 am

Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

  • Turning with your trailer.
  • Backing your trailer.
  • Parking your trailer on a grade.
  • Stopping the trailer rig suddenly.
  • Ready for the Highway

    After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

    Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

    Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

    Neva Scheve is the author of The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer. She and her husband Tom are the owners of EquiSpirit Horse Trailers. Built and designed for your horse’s safety.

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