Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

More articles at articles on database

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

More articles at articles database

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

More articles at articles database

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

More articles at database for articles

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

More articles at article database

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

More articles at www.articles-host.com

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

More articles at articles database

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

More articles at articles on database

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

More articles at database for articles

The only way to be 100% sure of getting a verified pure breed Maine Coon cat is to buy a pedigree kitten from a breeder. The breeder should be able to present a family tree of your cats pedigree and provide relevant certification.

A recommended place to start a search for a reputable breeder in your local area is the Maine Coon Breed Fanciers Association (www.mcbfa.org) Maine Coon kittens can be instantly recognizable by the long tufty ears and oversized paws, as seen in the classic longhaired American however there is a European strain of Maine Coon, (my own Maine Coon, King Henry comes from a German line) which has a shorter ruff around the neck, and often a fuller, squarer muzzle. The differences are not apparent until the cat is between 12 to 18 months.

In terms of identifying a pure pedigree Maine Coon, youll be relying quite heavily on information the breeder is presenting to you. If you have difficulty finding a reputable breeder, you could try and get a recommendation by talking to individuals at a Maine Coon event or an all breeds Cat show. It is essential you are happy with your breeder – if you are becoming a Maine Coon owner for the first time, you may need to rely on their expert advice.

You can expect to pay anywhere between $500 and $800 for a pure breed Maine Coon. With food, litter, vet bills and cat-sitters for holidays, Maine Coons can be a relatively expensive investment. All Maine Coon owners will agree that they are a truly wonderful breed and will repay you many times over.

IMPORTANT TIP: This could save a lot of heartache, trouble and expense later on; When buying an expensive pet, do not go for the kitten you feel sorry for and looks like it needs help. Any kittens with signs of withdrawal, low energy or general apathy, should really be avoided. Choose an independent, lively, energetic kitten. Pick out kittens that dont necessarily come to you but are, however, interested in their surroundings.

Its best to pick a local breeder and visit them in their home, when youre first making your initial enquiries to check the kittens living conditions, health and welfare of all cats living in the same environment.

Although it sounds like common sense, have questions prepared that will help you to establish whether the breeder can be trusted.

Questions youll definitely want to ask:

1. How much experience does the breeder have? If you need assurance about the breeders ability/expertise ask to speak to someone who has recently purchased a Maine Coon from that breeder.

2. Who are the kittens parents and are they champions? Even if you dont intend to show your cat, youll still want to find out about their pedigree. Thats what you are paying for. If this is just not important, you can sometimes find cheaper Maine Coons that are called pet quality meaning they do not meet the required physical standards for showing. This does not mean they are not perfectly healthy.

3. Does the stud live with the breeder? If not, can the breeder guarantee that the stud has not been subjected to any illnesses e.g. cat flu. Has the breeder bred the stud before?

4. Is there any known heredity illnesses in the ancestral line such as HCM (can cause heart failure) and hip problems?

5. Have any of the other cats suffered from any illnesses for e.g. have any recent litters suffered from any strain of cat flu?

6. If relevant to your situation, ask if the kitten is comfortable around other animals and children?

7. At what point, could the kittens leave their mother (I would be concerned if the breeder allowed the kitten to leave its mother if it is less than 12 weeks).

8. Will a vet check the kittens before leaving the breeders home? How many times? If the Maine Coon becomes ill after it has left the breeder, who is responsible for paying vets fees or could the kitten be returned to the breeder?

9. Youll also want to find out how often the queen is impregnated; because a queen subjected to too regular pregnancies can be prone to producing weak or sickly kittens.

Other things you may want to check/do:

10. The living conditions of the stud and queens e.g. the cleanliness of the cages/rooms and the health/welfare of the cat etc.

11. Will the cats be litter trained before they move to their new homes?

12. Also, the environment where the mother and kittens are living. Are there toys, clean litter, warmth, food and water?

13. Check the eyes of the kitten to evaluate its health. Never purchase a kitten that has weeping eyes.

14. The breeders contract. Have a read of the written agreement before you commit yourself. Pay particular attention to areas of responsibility should the kitten become unwell soon after youve bought him/her.

15. You should book your new kitten in for an all round check with your own vet almost as soon as youve collected from the breeder. If there are any signs of problems, youll want to know within the first 24 hours.

On the whole, Maine Coon breeders are passionate about their cats and love what they do. Theres not a whole lot of money to be made in breeding Maine Coons, and it is very demanding work.

Unless, your gut feeling tells you otherwise, you can expect to be talking to breeders who are totally dedicated Maine Coon lovers.

Copyright 2006 Sarah Crosier

More articles at article database