Warmbloods are amazing animals. They are some of the most beautiful horses in the world, with a versatility that is unbelievable. Warmbloods, unlike what many people think, are a true breed. All of the studbooks are closed. What this means is only a horse of that breed can be registered in that studbook. The only exception is individuals of other breeding that are deemed to be able to improve the bloodline of the current breed. This is shown through performance records and the success of offspring in competition. The recent opening of the Trakhener studbook is due to a loss in type of modern Trakheners. There are various types of Warmbloods:

The Hanoverian

The Hanoverians originate from Germany. There primary use is for dressage and show jumping. These horses are mildly temperamental, with more of a calmness in nature than many horse breeds. The most common coloring in the Hanoverian are Chestnut, Bay and Grey.

The Hanoverian Horse is a well built, well put together horse with much success in the disciplines of dressage and show jumping. This breed tends to be very versatile.

The Holsteiner

The Holsteiner originates from Germany, usually reaching 16 to 17 hands. These horses are mildly temperamental and are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. They tend to usually be bay in color, but mostly any solid coloring. Most Hosteiners have a defined canter that tends to be very expressive, but lacks an impressiveness at the trot. They are typically well known as excellent jumpers but have made their imprint on the dressage community.

Dutch Warmblood

The Dutch Warmbloods originate from Holland and are very easy going, typically calm in nature. These good tempered horses are built well running around 16 to 17 hands. They are known to excel at whatever discipline they are trained by.

Friesian

The Friesians originate from Holland and Germany with the studbook now kept in Germany, the FPZ. They are mildly temperamental growing to a huge size of 17 hands. They are primarily used for Dressage and reining but are sometimes seen on the show jumping circuit. These horses are also used for trick training, being widely versatile and very easily trainable. There are distinct characteristics of the Friesians. Baroque, which is mainly upright, with higher action and more feathering with a heavier mane and tail. Traditional, which is heavier and more drafty usually used for driving, and Sport Horse, which is used for all types of riding and driving. These horses are amazing. Very versatile with a very calm temperament for such an enormous horse.

Swedish Warmblood

The Swedish Warmbloods originate from Sweden, obviously. They will grow to be 16 to 17 hands. The are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. There coloring is all solid, predominantly Chestnut. The Swedish Warmbloods are one of the youngest warmblood breeds , so true type is not quite defined. Mainly having solid movements, with the conformation and their temperament being highly variable.

Trakhener

The Trakheners originate from Poland and East Prissuia. They tend to be a little more temperamental than a lot of other warmbloods. They are used for dressage, jumping and eventing. Coloring is mainly solid with defined characteristics of nice movements with good push from behind. They tend to be a bit stubborn and even difficult at times. Although there are some very lovely Trakheners. This breed possess a strong competitive drive owing perhaps to the large amount of Thoroughbred blood most carry. This is the only studbook still open in an attempt to further refine and define the Trakhener breed.

Oldenburg

The Oldenburgs originate from Germany. They grown to the large size of 16 to 17 hands. These horses are very calm and loveable. There coloring is solid but any color. They are primarily used for dressage and jumping. They were the first studbook with an American Division. Interestingly enough, all American Warmbloods approved by the ISR are registered as Oldenburgs, regardless of their actual parentage.

Andalusians

The Andalusians originate from Spain. They are smaller in height, ranging from 14.3 to 16 hands. They are used for dressage, bullfighting, parades and trick training. They come in solid colors, including mulberry. Bay and grey are the most common. Black and Dun are the least common. Andalusians are classically styled Baroque horses. They have thick manes and tails and tend to have high , lofty actions for their size. The Spanish Olympic Team was comprised entirely of Andalusians for the 2000 Games.

Horses are an amazing animal, no matter what the breed or bloodlines. They love their owners and one forms an attachment to their horse like no other. I couldnt imagine my life without my horse.

Nanette Hughston is a freelance writer from the southern United States Region. She has a bachelors degree in finance. She rides dressage with Grand Prix Level Trainer, Tracy Masterson at Highlife Farms, Orlando, FL. For more information and articles please see her website at http://www.dressageamerica.com and to visit her training site, please visit http://www.highlifefarms.com for dressage and hunter/ jumper information. Permission for reprint is granted with full bio remaining intact.

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Homemade dog treats dont have to involve any cooking or baking. There is an increasing trend in feeding dogs a raw diet that consists of uncooked meats and vegetables. One popular version of this diet is known as the bones and raw foods (BARF) diet. This diet places an emphasis on feeding your dog only natural foods that have not been cooked or otherwise processed. You can follow the principles of this diet to provide your dog with homemade dog treats that dont involve a great deal of work.

The BARF diet includes the use of raw, meaty bones and includes items such as chicken wings, necks and backs. It is important to note that while it is safe to give your dog raw chicken that includes bones, it is not safe to give them chicken that has been cooked that includes the bones. The bones are softened during the cooking process making them brittle and a choking hazard for dogs. However, raw chicken bones are not likely to splinter and create this hazard and are therefore safe to give to dogs.

Purchasing a bag of frozen chicken wings is one way to provide your dog with incredibly simple homemade dog treats. These treats can be as simple as removing a chicken wing or two from your freezer and distributing them to your dog.

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Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

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Every dog loves a tasty biscuit to chew on and what better way to show your dog that you care than to make homemade dog biscuits for him. Dog biscuits are excellent for maintaining your dogs dental health and when you bake homemade dog biscuits you can provide additional nutritional value in these biscuits.

Many commercial prepared dog biscuits are very high in fat. This fat content is what makes the biscuits so appealing to dogs. Baking homemade dog biscuits provides you the opportunity to make a healthier version of dog biscuits. When you make your own homemade dog biscuits, you have the flexibility to eliminate or reduce the amount of high fat ingredients in the biscuits. You can also opt to replace the fat found in meat with the healthier forms of fat that is found in peanut butter. Both sources provide your dog with a source of protein but the fat in meats is not as healthful for dogs as the fat found in peanut butter.

You also have the option of including vegetables in your homemade dog biscuits. Whether or not the recipe calls for vegetables you can always grate a few vegetables into your homemade dog biscuits to provide additional nutritional benefits to your dog. Incorporating vegetables into these homemade dog biscuits gives the treat an added flavor as well as many of the same health benefits that humans derive from consuming vegetables.

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Homemade dog treat recipes may sound like a great idea for creating your own nutritious and cost effective dog treats but you should also be extremely cautious to ensure that you are not giving your dog anything that could potentially be harmful to their health. Ingredients such as cocoa, chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions and macadamia nuts are known to cause health problems when ingested by dogs. These ingredients cause problems ranging from renal failure, anemia and erratic heartbeats as well as neurological problems. To avoid these potentially life threatening ingredients you should research each ingredient in the recipe.

It is imperative that you carefully research the ingredients in homemade dog treat recipes to ensure that each individual ingredient is safe for canine consumption. Using reputable sources for this important research is recommended. Published books as well as websites run by highly regarded individuals are both excellent resources for researching the ingredients in homemade dog treat recipes. If you are unable to find any specific information on the safety of a particular ingredient it is wise to show the ingredient list to your veterinarian to seek their opinion. They may be able to tell you if the ingredients in your homemade dog treat recipes are safe for your dog or not.

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Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

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There are many websites on the Internet that provide access to dog treat recipes. Many of these recipes are excellent resources for providing your dogs with healthy treats that are affordable and nutritious. As with any information that you find on the Internet, however, you should do quite a bit of your own research before using any of the dog treat recipes. This research should include ensuring that each of the ingredients is not harmful to your dog. This is necessary because many ingredients that we would not consider harmful could cause irreversible health problems and even fatalities in dogs.

Raisins are one example of an ingredient that should be avoided in dog treat recipes. Both grapes and raisins have been known to cause renal failure in dogs. Although one or two grapes may not be cause for concern, these products should be avoided in dog treat recipes and you should seek veterinary intervention if your dog ingests either grapes or raisins.

Onions are another such ingredient that should never be included in dog treat recipes. Many people make the mistake of thinking that onion is a great flavor for dog treats but ingesting onions even in small doses can make dogs susceptible to a certain type of anemia. Smaller dogs are especially prone to this anemia after ingesting onions.

Before following dog treat recipes, it is important to review the ingredients to ensure that each one is safe for consumption by dogs. It is important to note that seemingly harmless ingredients can be toxic when consumed by dogs.

Todd runs a website where you can find all sorts of homemade dog treat recipes. Sign up for a free ecourse on the benefits of incorporating homemade dog treats into your dog’s diet today at: http://homemade-dog-treat-recipes.com

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Homemade dog treat recipes are a wonderful way to provide your dog with treats that are sure to be enjoyed. There are many delicious dog treats available commercially but finding homemade dog treat recipes that appeal to your dog can allow you to make a dog treat that your dog will go crazy for each time they receive it.

For example, if your dog goes crazy for peanut butter you can find homemade dog treat recipes that include peanut butter and then modify the recipe to include even more peanut butter thus amplifying the taste. You can find homemade dog treat recipes from a number of sources including the Internet, books in pet stores and magazines. You may even find homemade dog treat recipes available in specialty dog food and supply stores that focus on making products with all natural ingredients available to their consumers.

You can also modify homemade dog treat recipes to suit your dogs nutritional needs. Using the example above, you could opt for low fat peanut butter instead of regular peanut butter, if your dog is overweight. This gives your dog the flavor of peanut butter that they love and also provides you with the opportunity to create a low fat version of a favorite treat. Homemade dog treat recipes are a great starting point but they can always be modified to suit your dogs tastes or nutritional needs.

Todd runs a website where you can find all sorts of homemade dog treat recipes. Over 140 homemade dog treat recipes available at: http://homemade-dog-treat-recipes.com

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Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

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Here are five basic puppy naming tips that you can use to help pick out the perfect name for your puppy.

1.) Keep it short and sweet. You should keep your dogs name to one or two syllables so that its easy for it to understand. The longer a name is, the more confusing it will be for the puppy.

2.) End the name in a long vowel. This also aids in the dogs recognizing its name. It will help to get the dogs attention when you call his name.

3.) Do not give your dog a human name. When you give it a human name, you make the dog one of us. And youll soon start treating it like a human and less like a dog.

4.) Naturally youll want to stay away from names that sound like obedience commands, like sit, down, stay, come, etc. Imagine giving the command, Bit, sit. You can see how the puppy would get confused.

5.) Finally, you should pick a name that you like! You can have it based on all sorts of themes and interests (cars, sports, hobbies, etc) that you are passionate about. Why not go with one of those?

Remember, these are just guidelines. You will know when you have picked out the perfect name for your new puppy.

Todd runs the website The Doggy Dispatch where you can get a free dog names report containing over 58 pages of themed dog names you can use for your brain storming. Get your free guide today at: http://thedoggydispatch.com/dognames/

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