The only way to be 100% sure of getting a verified pure breed Maine Coon cat is to buy a pedigree kitten from a breeder. The breeder should be able to present a family tree of your cats pedigree and provide relevant certification.

A recommended place to start a search for a reputable breeder in your local area is the Maine Coon Breed Fanciers Association (www.mcbfa.org) Maine Coon kittens can be instantly recognizable by the long tufty ears and oversized paws, as seen in the classic longhaired American however there is a European strain of Maine Coon, (my own Maine Coon, King Henry comes from a German line) which has a shorter ruff around the neck, and often a fuller, squarer muzzle. The differences are not apparent until the cat is between 12 to 18 months.

In terms of identifying a pure pedigree Maine Coon, youll be relying quite heavily on information the breeder is presenting to you. If you have difficulty finding a reputable breeder, you could try and get a recommendation by talking to individuals at a Maine Coon event or an all breeds Cat show. It is essential you are happy with your breeder – if you are becoming a Maine Coon owner for the first time, you may need to rely on their expert advice.

You can expect to pay anywhere between $500 and $800 for a pure breed Maine Coon. With food, litter, vet bills and cat-sitters for holidays, Maine Coons can be a relatively expensive investment. All Maine Coon owners will agree that they are a truly wonderful breed and will repay you many times over.

IMPORTANT TIP: This could save a lot of heartache, trouble and expense later on; When buying an expensive pet, do not go for the kitten you feel sorry for and looks like it needs help. Any kittens with signs of withdrawal, low energy or general apathy, should really be avoided. Choose an independent, lively, energetic kitten. Pick out kittens that dont necessarily come to you but are, however, interested in their surroundings.

Its best to pick a local breeder and visit them in their home, when youre first making your initial enquiries to check the kittens living conditions, health and welfare of all cats living in the same environment.

Although it sounds like common sense, have questions prepared that will help you to establish whether the breeder can be trusted.

Questions youll definitely want to ask:

1. How much experience does the breeder have? If you need assurance about the breeders ability/expertise ask to speak to someone who has recently purchased a Maine Coon from that breeder.

2. Who are the kittens parents and are they champions? Even if you dont intend to show your cat, youll still want to find out about their pedigree. Thats what you are paying for. If this is just not important, you can sometimes find cheaper Maine Coons that are called pet quality meaning they do not meet the required physical standards for showing. This does not mean they are not perfectly healthy.

3. Does the stud live with the breeder? If not, can the breeder guarantee that the stud has not been subjected to any illnesses e.g. cat flu. Has the breeder bred the stud before?

4. Is there any known heredity illnesses in the ancestral line such as HCM (can cause heart failure) and hip problems?

5. Have any of the other cats suffered from any illnesses for e.g. have any recent litters suffered from any strain of cat flu?

6. If relevant to your situation, ask if the kitten is comfortable around other animals and children?

7. At what point, could the kittens leave their mother (I would be concerned if the breeder allowed the kitten to leave its mother if it is less than 12 weeks).

8. Will a vet check the kittens before leaving the breeders home? How many times? If the Maine Coon becomes ill after it has left the breeder, who is responsible for paying vets fees or could the kitten be returned to the breeder?

9. Youll also want to find out how often the queen is impregnated; because a queen subjected to too regular pregnancies can be prone to producing weak or sickly kittens.

Other things you may want to check/do:

10. The living conditions of the stud and queens e.g. the cleanliness of the cages/rooms and the health/welfare of the cat etc.

11. Will the cats be litter trained before they move to their new homes?

12. Also, the environment where the mother and kittens are living. Are there toys, clean litter, warmth, food and water?

13. Check the eyes of the kitten to evaluate its health. Never purchase a kitten that has weeping eyes.

14. The breeders contract. Have a read of the written agreement before you commit yourself. Pay particular attention to areas of responsibility should the kitten become unwell soon after youve bought him/her.

15. You should book your new kitten in for an all round check with your own vet almost as soon as youve collected from the breeder. If there are any signs of problems, youll want to know within the first 24 hours.

On the whole, Maine Coon breeders are passionate about their cats and love what they do. Theres not a whole lot of money to be made in breeding Maine Coons, and it is very demanding work.

Unless, your gut feeling tells you otherwise, you can expect to be talking to breeders who are totally dedicated Maine Coon lovers.

Copyright 2006 Sarah Crosier

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Lungfish can survive in poorly aerated waters since they have lungs which make its possible for them to obtain oxygen directly from the air. The lungs are related to those in primitive amphibian animals. Today, there are six known Lungfish species in world, but they used to be much more common. Lungfish have been around since the Lower Devonian era and during earlier stages of the planets history there existed much more than six lungfish species. Those species that have survived have changed little since the Lower Devonian age. The Australian lungfish have for instance looked pretty much the same during the last 100 million years.

Today, you will find wild Lungfish in Africa, South America and Australia. The African and South American Lungfish species all belong to the family Lepidosirenidae, while the Australian Lungfish has its own family the Ceratodidae. As mentioned earlier, all Lungfish species are capable of breathing oxygen from the air. Other shared features are their large, elongated and snakelike bodies. They are also predators and will eat pretty much anything that they manage to catch. Fish is their staple food, but they will happily also gulp down crustaceans, larger insects and other aquatic creatures. They are very robust and can survive in waters shunned by most other fish species. If you want to keep Lungfish in your aquarium you should however avoid the highest pH-values. Before you buy a Lungfish for your aquarium should consider their size. The largest Lungfish is one of the African lungfish species, a fish which can reach a maximal size of 2 metres / 6 feet which makes it unsuitable for hobbyist aquariums. Even the smaller Lungfish species grow very large and should only be housed in huge tanks.

In Africa, you will find four different Lungfish species. Protopterus annectens is the most popular species among aquarists. The three other ones are Protopterus aethiopicus, Protopterus amphibious and Protopterus dolloi. You should never get an African lungfish unless your aquarium is very large, since they grow rapidly. As long as you can provide them with enough space, they are however though fishes that will tolerate a wide range of water conditions. They will eat all sorts of food. Even though they are predatory fish, it is not very hard to make them accept dry and frozen foods. When kept on a diet of prepared food they will still appreciate occasional live treats. This means that your African lungfish should ideally be housed alone since it will happily devour any tank mates. If the other fish is too large to swallow, the African lungfish will simply bite chunks out of it until it is fully consumed.

On the South American continent you will only find one Lungfish, Lepidosiren paradoxa. This Lungfish can also be kept in aquariums and its requirements are very similar to the African lungfish species. Just like its African cousins, it must be given plenty of room. Lepidosiren paradoxa can reach a maximal size of 1.2 meters / 4 feet.

The Australian Lungfish, Neoceratodus forsteri, can also be kept in aquariums but you should be aware of the fact that they are CITES listed. You are only allowed to by Australian Lungfish from licensed breeders and if you live anywhere outside Australia it can be hard to get exportation and importation licenses. The Australian Lungfish is also known as Queensland Lungfish.

Read more about about African lungfish or other predatory fish

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The American Quarter Horse is the first breed of horse native to the United States. The breed evolved when the bloodlines of horses brought to the New World were mixed. Foundation American Quarter Horse stock originated from Arab, Turk and Barb breeds. Selected Stallions and Mares were crossed with horses brought to Colonial America from England and Ireland in the 1600s. This combination resulted in a compact, heavily muscled horse that evolved to fill the colonists passion for short distance racing.

The amazing power behind a quarter horse enabled this great animal to run short distances over a straightaway faster than any other horse with the fastest being named Celebrated American Running Horse. The names for this breed has changed many times over the years until 1940 when a registry was formed to preserve the breed which officially became the American Quarter Horse Association.

In the year 1674 in Enrico County, Virginia the first American Quarter Horse Race was held. They were one-on-one match races down village streets, county lanes and level pastures. Many disagreements and fights were generated from heavy betting of large purse races by 1690.

The American Quarter Horse, due to their calm disposition and quick response time, the horse became known for its cow sense, being able to outmaneuver cattle. During the 1800s as many pioneer folk moved westward, so did the American Quarter Horse. An abundant amount of cattle ranches stretched across the plains. Making this breed well suited for the cattle ranchers.

In todays world, the American Quarter Horse still remains a great sprinter known for their heavy muscling, but they have exceeded way past the cattle horse. These amazing horses compete in almost every discipline available, from rodeo events, such as barrel racing and calf roping to English disciplines such as dressage and show jumping. The make a nice little childrens hunter as well, with the ability to jump a wide range of heights. They are one of the most versatile breeds in the world.

Many pleasure riders still look to the American Quarter horse for recreational riding, as they make a nice pleasure horse as well.

Breeders, since the creation of the breed over fifty years ago, have diligently been trying to perfect the bloodlines to produce a high quality versatile animal.. Strict guidelines have been set by the American Quarter Horse Association regarding registration of the American Quarter Horses. Some of these guidelines include:
1.Limited white markings on the face and below the knee
2.Only thirteen accepted colors recognized by the AQHA. These are sorrel (reddish brown), bay, black, brown, buckskin, chestnut, dun, red dun, gray, grullo, palomino, red roan and blue roan. The official gray color is what most people call white, but there are no white American Quarter Horses.
3.A quarter horse foal must be the product of a numbered American Quarter Horse dam and a numbered American Quarter Horse sire. There is an appendiz registry for foals with one numbered American Quarter Horse parent and one Throughbred parent registered with The Jockey Club.

Some other notable characteristics of the American Quarter Horse is their speed, versatility, gentle nature, heavy muscling and keen cow sense.

If you own an American Quarter Horse, no matter what discipline you choose to ride, your horse will excel. This breed is one of the most enjoyable horse breeds around today and one of the most popular.

Nanette Hughston is a freelance writer from the southern United States Region. She has a bachelors degree in finance. She rides dressage with Grand Prix Level Trainer, Tracy Masterson at Highlife Farms, Orlando, FL. For more information and articles please see her website at http://www.dressageamerica.com and http://www.informbyweb.com and to visit her training site, please visit http://www.highlifefarms.com for dressage and hunter/ jumper information. Permission for reprint is granted with full bio remaining intact.

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The Clown Loach is a popular fish in tropical aquariums since it is very beautiful and not too difficult to keep. Its scientific name is Botia macracanthus and it is therefore also known as Botia fish. When you buy a loach it will typically need at least a 100 liter / 20 gallon aquarium to do well. They are usually sold when quite young and will therefore grow larger and larger as they mature. A fully grown Clown Loach will need a 540 liter / 125 gallon aquarium or larger.

Wild Clown Loaches inhabit densely grown waters in Indonesia and will therefore appreciate a planted aquarium or an aquarium with plenty of rocks and caves which the Clown Loach can hide among. A combination of both plants and caves are ideal. Adult Clown Loaches like to nibble on plants and you should therefore ideally choose tough and fast growing plants like Java Fern and Anubias. Juvenile Clown Loaches can usually be kept with all types of plants as long as they appreciate the same water conditions as the fish.

The Clown Loach loves to squeeze it self into caves, rocky formations and other tiny places that can barely fit it. To put it simple: the more decorations the better. The aquarium must be decorated when you bring your Clown Loach home from the fish store, since it is most likely quite stressed from the long journey from Indonesia. A majority of the Clown Loaches available in the aquarium trade is caught in the waters of Sumatra and Borneo. If you place your Clown Loach in a barren aquarium, it will not have a chance to recuperate. It will instead become more and more stressed. Stressed Clown Loaches are very susceptible to a parasite called Ich (White Spot Disease).

Dont be afraid if you notice that your Clown Loach has squeezed itself behind a piece of aquarium equipment, chances are that it is not at all stuck, it just likes to feel safe. The Clown Loach is also found of digging itself into tiny places. It is therefore important to use a substrate without any sharp edges in the aquarium. In the substrate your can place a wide range of different things for your Clown Loach to explore and hide among. You do not have to limit your self to plants and rocks; PVC pipes, flower pots, roots and ceramic and plastic aquarium ornaments will also be highly appreciated. It is important that the decorations have no sharp edges, since the Clown Loach will like to squeeze itself into the smallest places possible. If you place floating plants in the water they will dim the light and make your Clown Loach less shy and more active during the day.

Vigorous filtration is necessary since Clown Loaches are sensitive to poor water conditions. A combination of mechanical, chemical and biological filtration is recommended. Change 25 percent of the water at least once a week. Smaller and more frequent water changes are even better. Even a slight disturbance in the water quality can harm you Clown Loach and in a community aquarium the Clown Loach is usually the first fish that falls ill or die when the water quality drops. Since your will find the live Clown Loaches in streams and rivers, the aquarium should ideally also have strong water circulation. The aquarium must have a will fitted lid since Clown Loaches are vigorous jumpers.

Read more about clown loaches, clown loach breeding and other loaches

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It is not hard to understand why plants are present in so many aquariums. Lush and healthy plants are stunning to look at and will create a much more natural environment in the aquarium. Most fish species feel safer and less stressed when they have plants to hide among, and many species will never thrive in an unplanted aquarium. If your fish species inhabit densely grown waters in the wild, they will feel very insecure in a plant without any vegetation. A lot of fish species are however rock dwellers and can get the same sense of security from caves and rocky formations in the aquarium. If your fish disturb the plants and damage them by nibbling of the leaves or digging up the roots, caves and wood can be a better solution than plants. If uprooting is the main problem, you can choose plants that float and do not require any anchorage in the substrate. If your fish are vigorous plant eaters, artificial plants can be used instead of live plants. It can also be possible to find a few live plant species that your fish do not like the taste of. If your fish only nibble on the plants, you can choose strong and fast growing live plants that can tolerate some snacking.

Plants will not only provide your fish with valuable shelters and make your aquarium look beautiful; they will also help you to keep the water quality up. Fish and plants coexist in the wild and will complement each other well in the aquarium. The waste products released by fish will contain compounds that the plants can use as nutrition. Organic waste will therefore be contained within the plant instead of floating around in the water where it can harm the fish. You should however keep in mind that these compounds will not disappear, they will just be confined within the plant. If you allow dead and decaying plant material to stay in the aquarium, the organic compounds will be released again and begin to pollute the water. Plants must therefore be regularly pruned and unhealthy parts must be removed from the water as soon as possible. In return for the organic compounds that they receive from the fish, the plants will produce oxygen which is essential to the fish. The plants will also use dissolved carbon dioxide and thereby lower the levels of carbon dioxide in the aquarium.

The direct exchange between fish and plants is important, but it is not the only thing that help keeping the water quality up. The plants will also provide a home for a wide range of micro organisms that are beneficial for the ecosystem in the aquarium. Plants are also capable of inhibiting ugly algae growth since plants and algae compete over the same nutrients.

Many fish species will never spawn in an unplanted aquarium. Some species need the plants to feel safe enough to spawn, while others need leaves to attach their eggs on. A densely planted aquarium will also increase the fry survival growth if you wish to raise fry in the same aquarium as adult fish, since the fry will hide among the plants. Busy plants with a lot of smaller leaves are ideal for this purpose. It should however be noted that there are other ways to provide fry with good shelters. Newly hatched fry can for instance hide among larger marbles on the bottom of the aquarium. Caves, roots, stones and artificial aquarium decoration will also give the fry hiding places where they can stay out of harms way.

A plant relies on photosynthesis and light is therefore essential to it. A fish only aquarium requires little light, but if you wish to keep a densely planted aquarium you might be forced to install new lights. Fluorescent light is better than the standard incandescent light in planted aquarium. Some plant species are very demanding in require even stronger light than the fluorescent, but these species are not recommended for beginners. Fluorescent lights are more expensive than incandescent lights, but fluorescent lights will on the other hand burn cooler and use less electricity. Java Fern and Java Moss are two examples of suitable beginner species. They are tough plants that can survive in a wide range of pH-values and water hardiness. They can even be kept in a slightly brackish aquarium, such as a Molly aquarium.

Unlike many other aquatic plants, Java Fern should not be planted in the substrate in the aquarium. Java Fern should instead be attached to rock, wood or aquarium decorations where it will form roots. Once your have purchased your first Java Fern or Java Moss, the plants will propagate themselves. New plants will develop on the old plants, and eventually break off. You can attach these tiny plants to some type of decoration in the aquarium and wait for them to grow large.

Article provided by AC Aquarium fish which is a general aquarium website featuring a lot of information for beginner aquarists including a free ebook named Tropical Fish – A beginners guide.

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Keeping tropical fish is a fascinating hobby that has been enjoyed for centuries in different parts of the world. The Romans kept live anemones in saltwater jars, but never succeeded in keeping these beautiful creatures alive for any longer period of time in captivity. They were however much more successful with keeping eels in aquariums, and some sources claim that certain types of eels reached an age of up to 60 years when kept by the Romans. In South East Asia, the first fish keepers had their fish in ponds, not in aquariums. The first domesticated species were probably carps and all of todays fancy goldfish types actually hail from a wild carp that can still be found in Asian rivers and streams.

If you want your fish to thrive like the Asian carps instead of quickly vanish like the Roman anemones, it is important that you take the time to learn the basics about fish keeping and aquarium maintenance before you set up your first aquarium. By obtaining the basic information before you go about, you will save yourself a lot of time, money and effort in the long run since you will be able to avoid the common beginner mistakes. One common beginner mistake is for instance to purchase a very small aquarium, thinking that a large one is much more difficult to manage. The truth is however that the mega-sized show aquariums that you can see in your fish store are easier to maintain than your tiny 5 gallon tank. In a small aquarium, there will be a very little amount of water. If a fish dies in a large aquarium, the pollution will be diluted by gallons and gallons of water. If a fish dies in your 5 gallon aquarium, the carcass may very well pollute your entire tank before you even notice the demise and remove the body from the water. I therefore recommend the beginner aquarist to choose at least a 10 gallon aquarium, and a 30 gallon aquarium is ideal. Avoid extraordinary deep aquariums since they are more difficult to clean. A very deep aquarium can also become a problem if you want to introduce plants to your aquarium, since you might have to install extra strong lights that are capable of penetrating the deep water all the way down to the plants at the bottom of the aquarium.

Filling up your aquarium with water and then promptly add all your fish at once is extremely unadvisable since the aquarium is ready to accommodate that many fishes. An aquarium is actually a miniature ecosystem and fish is not the only thing inhabiting it. Your fish will produce plenty of waste products (chiefly fish poop) that will eventually begin to build up in the aquarium. It is naturally not very healthy for fish to swim around in there own feces, but fortunately enough there exists a certain type of bacteria that can convert waste products from fish into compounds that are less unhealthy. Fish poop contains a high level of ammonia, and ammonia is also excreted via the gills of your fish. Ammonia is harmful to fish and also can turn extremely poisonous if your aquarium experience a sudden change in water chemistry that pushes the pH level above 7.5. If you allow populations of suitable bacteria to establish in your aquarium before you introduce all your fish, the bacteria will convert the ammonia into nitrite.

Nitrate is also very unhealthy and high levels of nitrite will kill your fish, but fortunately enough there is another type of bacteria that will love to live in your aquarium and that will change the nitrite into a less harmful compound nitrate. Nitrate is less dangerous than ammonia and nitrite, but high levels of nitrate will be unhealthy for your fish. There are unfortunately no beneficial bacteria to aid you here, and you must instead remove the nitrate by performing regular water changes. Changing 25 percent of the water once a week is a good rule of thumb, but some aquariums require more frequent water changes. When you are trying to establish your new aquarium or if you are experiencing problems with the water quality, smaller and more frequent water changes are advisable.

All those who like to start keeping tropical fish or are beginners allready keeping fish are recommended to download the free ebook Tropical Fish – A beginners guide from AC Tropical Aquarium Fish

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When you have decided what type of fish and plants you wish to keep, found a suitable tank and purchased all the necessary equipment, the next step is to actually set up your aquarium. Many people quite randomly add stuff to their aquarium without much consideration, which usually mean that they will encounter a lot more problems that the prepared aquarists. By sticking to a plan when you arrange your first aquarium you can save yourself a lot of time and trouble.

The first thing you should do is to thoroughly clean your tank. If you skip this stage simply because your new aquarium looks clean and shiny, your fish might die due to left over contaminants that become dissolved in the water. A previously used aquarium also needs a good scrub to remove unwanted parasites and diseases. Many microorganisms are remarkably resilient and can stay dormant even in an empty aquarium. Normally, it is unadvisable to use detergents when cleaning aquarium equipment, but during this first wash you can use a small amount of dish washing liquid in warm water. It is of imperative importance that you rinse away all traces of washing liquid as soon as possible. Use warm water to thoroughly rinse the aquarium several times. Fish can die from even tiny amounts of dish washing liquid.

When you have cleaned your tank, you should clean all the items that will go into the aquarium, such as equipment and aquarium dcor. If you use a bucket when cleaning your equipment, you should use a bucket that has not previously been contaminated with any form of detergents. Gravel should be washed under warm running water while being stirred. Continue to stir until the water is clear. If you plan to include bogwood in your set up, you might have to keep it in a bucket for a few weeks before you can place it in the aquarium. Bogwood can not sink until it has been water drenched. If you are lucky, your bogwood has been properly drenched before entering the store shelves.

You should be very careful with items from the wild, since they might affect the water chemistry in the aquarium. If you still want to use aquarium decoration from the wild, you must make sure that the items free from undesired microorganisms. Place them in a bucket filled with water and chlorine bleach. All traces of chlorine bleach must naturally be removed afterwards by repeated rinsing and soaking in fresh water.

Before you begin to fill your aquarium with water you should check that the spot that you have chosen is suitable. The floor must be flat and the room should ideally not be subjected to shakings. A special type of aquarium matting can be used to decrease unevenness between the aquarium and the thing that is stands on top of. A special aquarium stand is recommended, especially for larger aquariums since they can become too heavy for ordinary furniture.

If your tap water contains chlorine, you need a purchase a water conditioner from the fish store to remove the chlorine. In many countries, chlorine is added to the tap water to reduce the growth or bacteria and other micro organisms. In an aquarium, chlorine is naturally unwanted.

Now it is time to test your aquarium for leaks. Mending leaks is much easier now, then when you have filled your aquarium with gravel, equipment, fish etcetera. Fill your aquarium with water and let it stay like that for at least half a day. If there are no signs of leaks, you can remove the water and begin to decorate your aquarium. The first thing that you should add to your aquarium is the gravel. If you want to use an under gravel filter, the necessary plates must be inserted prior to the gravel. It is popular among aquarists to add more gravel to the back of the aquarium that to the front, in order to create a sloping bottom that gives you a better view of the aquarium. Adding 1-3 inches of substrate is common, but some aquarists prefer a deep sand bed while others go for much less gravel. If you are going to use under gravel filtration, you should follow the instructions for the filter system.

The next step involves filling the aquarium half way up with water. If you fill the aquarium all the way up, it will be more difficult to add equipment and decorations. One of the most convenient ways of filling your aquarium with water is to place a place on top of the gravel and pour dechlorinated water onto that plate. With this method, you will disturb the gravel as little as possible. Try to direct the flow to the sides of the tank. By using a plate and adding water at a slow pace, you can have your water pretty clear from the start. It is normal for the water to look a little cloudy after being poured into the aquarium; it will settle after a day or two.

Attach the equipment to their proper places in the aquarium. For most beginner aquarists, this means the heater, the thermometer and the filter. A heater should be placed somewhere in the aquarium where the circulation will be potent, since this will spread the heat evenly in the tank. The thermometer should be placed where it is easy to read. Do not connect the equipment to the electrical outlet yet.

Place aquarium decoration at their desired places. Try to create plenty of good hiding spots for your fish, since this will make them feel more at home in the aquarium. A fish that is relaxed is less prone to diseases. Aquarium decoration is also a good way of hiding ugly cable cords, tubes etcetera. Make sure that the decorations are safely a secured. Caves should not be able to collapse, stones should not topple, and artificial plants should be anchored in the substrate or attached to aquarium decoration.

Live plants are a nice addition to the aquarium and sturdy plant species can be successfully kept even by beginner aquarists. If you want to keep live plants, you can add them now. If you are in no hurry, you can instead wait a few days and allow the water to stabilize since this is more beneficial for the plants. It is advisable to read more about aquatic plants before you choose plants. This way, you will find out which plants that are ideal for you and how to care for them. Some plants should be planted in the substrate; others attached to aquarium decoration, and a third type is simply left floating at the surface.

When you have gotten this far, you should turn on the equipment and make sure that they work. Always read the manuals that come with aquarium equipment before you begin to use the items. Fill the aquarium full with dechlorinated water and wait 30 minutes before you turn on the heater. Install the air supplying equipment, e.g. air stones or the air pump. Also turn on the mechanical filter, if you are using this type of filtration. Always follow the manufacturers instructions, since different equipment have different requirements. The temperature in the aquarium should be closely monitored for a day or two to make sure that everything works properly before you add any fish. The filter should run for at least one day.

Now you are ready to begin the so called cycling of the aquarium. This is an important step that should never be skipped. I suggest that you read about aquarium cycling before you add any fish, since this can save you a lot of trouble and prevent fish death.

When you have setup your aquarium you can read more about how to manage it AC Tropical Fish. AC tropical fish also offer all visitors a free comprehensive aquarium ebook and support many smaller aquarium sites such as this one about clownfish

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