Dog training collars come in a variety of types and sizes. When you want to train your dog, you’ll want a strong collar that goes well with a sturdy leash, so you can keep your pet under control without hurting him too much. Therefore, it must also be one that fits around your dog’s neck comfortably. Taking down the measurements of your dog, especially the area of his neck and head, with a measuring tape before going off to buy, would be wise.

Traditional dog training collars, or choke collars, are now classified by how they are fitted around the dog’s neck. There are three popular kinds of choke collars: the limited choke collar, the choke chain, and the snap-around. All of these serve unique purposes, and some are only advisable to use for dogs who require special training.

The limited choke collar, for example, is used to train sled dogs and service dogs. The limited choke collar only fits snugly around the dog’s neck. When you pull on it with a leash, it doesn’t get any smaller than the size of the dog’s head, so there’s no pain involved for the dog, but it affords the user a great deal of force when used.

The choke chain collar is not at all very popular these days. It’s made of an adjustable chain of heavy steel links, which contracts when pulled on with a leash. It used to be a popular training collar for large guard dogs. This is sort of a shock collar in that it chokes the dog severely if he tries to make a sharp, sudden movement; the more the dog struggles, the more the chain tightens. The chain only falls back into place once the dog relaxes.

The snap around choke collar is considered the healthiest overall, as it doesn’t contract like the choke chain, and rides high on the dog’s neck so it won’t push against the windpipe even if the leash is pulled. You only need a minimum of force to guide the dog using this collar, and it keeps the dog’s neck from snapping backward even in case of an accidentally strong pull.

The more high-tech dog training collars are remote-controlled, but you won’t always need those if you’re mostly after restraint. The difference between traditional and high-tech training collars is that with the latter, you can inflict corrective measures upon your dog at the push of a button – as with shock collars, tone collars and vibration collars. Shock collars are not recommended for use by a truly caring dog owner – these are considered inhumane and unhealthy for the dog’s training progress.

Puppy-train.com provides you with information on dog barking, dog training collars, dog training schools, dog grooming supplies and homemade dog treats. Go to http://www.puppy-train.com/

More articles at database for articles

In compiling some information on achieving a proper fit to the horse when purchasing a saddle I came across several Rules of Thumb to bear in mind. There’s a wealth of information available on the subject of saddle fitting, some of it contradictory. It’s easy for the first time (or even second time) saddle buyer to get confused . The following Rules of Thumb are designed to help a prospective buyer get pointed in the right direction.

The Rules :

Rule of Thumb #1: All saddles don’t fit all horses.

This would seem obvious, but the novice might buy a saddle with only the rider in mind. While it’s obvious that a Belgian, Quarterhorse, and Haflinger would each require a saddle of a different size this is still a good rule to keep in mind.

Rule of Thumb #2: Some western saddle (trees) fit most western or stock horses.

There is truth to this statement. A Western Saddle built on semi-quarter horse bars will fit most cow ponies and similarly an English saddle on a medium tree will fit most horses. Either way, you have maybe an 80% chance of success. But if you have to go through the hassle of returning a saddle or have to suffer with a poor fit those aren’t necessarily the best odds.

Rule of Thumb #3: If you purchase a saddle based on appearance alone, it won’t fit (Murphy’s Law applied to saddle buying).

Well, we all do things like this occasionally, probably more with automobiles than with saddles. It’s hard to turn down something that appeals to the eye. But most experienced horsemen and horsewomen wouldn’t buy based on looks alone – would we?

Rule of Thumb #4: Like other things in life, the more information you gather, the better your chance of success.

What this says is that if you’re going to purchase a saddle, the more you know about saddles and the more you know about the horse(s) in question, the better your chance of success (a good fit) will be. You needn’t be an expert – just take the time to learn a few things like, why fit is important, the basic parts of the saddle tree, etc..

A corollary to this rule is – find out what the saddle maker or retailer needs in the way of information to get you the saddle you need. If they don’t ask for some information find another retailer.

Rule of Thumb #5: If you don’t know a lot about horses, get someone who does to help you out.

Put another way – If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t do too much of it. This is probably the best ruile for the novice to follow. Get a friend or aquaintance who knows a lot about horses, or your vet or your local outfitter – anyone you feel you can trust – to help you out. They can tell you what measurements to need to take or, by looking at the horse, whether you really need to take any. Getting some expert assistance can save you lots of grief downstream.

Rule of Thumb #6 (Golden Rule): You won’t know for sure if the saddle fits until you put it on the horse and go for a ride.

This rule has all sorts of implications. Measuring the horse for saddle fit can range from visual inspection to withers tracings to molds and high tech measuring devices. The more you measure the better the fit you are apt to achieve but at some point it can be overkill because you never achieve a perfect fit. The only way to validate good fit is to put the saddle on the horse and go for a ride.

More detailed information on saddle fit plus a number of related articles can be found at www.your-guide-to-gifts-for-horse-lovers.com/saddle.html.

Copyright 2005 W. Savage. All Rights Reserved.

William Bill Savage, a retired, engineer lives on the Goose Bay Ranch in Montana where he spends time with family, horses, and his web site.

More articles at articles database

Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

More articles at articles database

Birds are great additions to your backyard. Putting up bird houses is an excellent way to attract them. However, not all birds opt to nest in bird houses. Birds differ in their habitat preferences and only cavity-dwellers are probably interested in the bird shelters in your backyard. As it is, these cavity-dwellers also have their own specifications about the kind of house they like. These are minor measurements or feature issues but they are important for the birds. However, there are general guidelines in building these houses.

First, it is important to identify the species of birds that visit your backyard. It is also necessary to distinguish which are the cavity-dwellers from the tree and burrow dwellers. Common cavity-dwellers are wrens, chickadees, bluebirds, and flickers. Choose one you like best and focus your bird house design on it. Even if the idea of building multiple bird houses appeal to you, refrain from doing so because birds are territorial animals.

Second, determine the required dimensions of your chosen bird. Forget asking the birds for these because you’ll get no answers. Dimensions of bird houses include entrance-hole, height, depth, and floor size. Smaller birds like wren and chickadees usually prefer 4×4 floor size and a reasonable 8 depth. Consult a bird book or the internet for information regarding the measurements of your bird house.

Third, it is better to use untreated wood and lumber for bird houses. Aside from mimicking the birds’ natural habitat, natural wood also minimizes risks of poisoning and overheating. Treated and processed wood like plywood contains preservatives like formaldehyde, which poses serious health hazards to your feathered friends. Lumber that is classified as pressure-treated often contain toxic chemicals which can poison the nesting birds. Paint is also a no-no. Chipping paint can be mistaken by the bird for food and eat it. Also, metals and plastics are not suitable for building avian shelters since they are both prone to overheating. You would want to provide the birds shelter, not an outdoor oven.

Fourth, in drafting or designing a plan for your bird houses, it is important to consider the birds’ safety against the elements and predators. Slanted roofs are preferable so rain, dirt, and moisture would not collect on top and rot the wood. It is also preferable that the roofs extend over the sides and front. Perches are not really necessary since cavity-dwellers do not perch. Consider drainage and ventilation needs. Drill small holes on the floor but make sure that these are smaller than the bird’s feet. These holes are also best placed on corners to help in draining water out in case of rain. Baby birds drown easily and a bit of collected rainwater in their shelter is enough to send them to their deaths. Aside from the relatively larger entrance holes, place ventilation holes along the house’s walls or back. These let heat escape to keep the structure comfortably cool. Placing the bird house atop a pole is a good way to discourage predators like cats and raccoons.

Fifth, maintenance and cleanliness are also factors in bird house building. Unkempt bird houses are causes of diseases, according to experts. To help you in maintaining cleanliness in the bird house, add a backdoor. This way, you can easily remove unused nest and disinfect the vacated house. Droppings and other dirt also contribute to the contamination and cleaning these out limits risks of infecting other birds.

With these tips, you are on your way to designing and building your own bird houses. Help the birds by treating these houses as if you live there. Considering the birds’ safety in your bird houses ensure you of longer years with your feathered friends.

For more valuable information on Bird Houses, please visit http://www.birdhousesbylaura.com

More articles at articles database

If your dog is an important part of your life, you will want to provide the best of care for her so she can enjoy a long and rewarding life. A trip or two each year to your veterinary clinic does not guarantee that your loyal canine will maintain her healthy appearance and youthful spirit. It is you, the dog’s owner, who can make the difference between your dog living a long, full life or one of physical disease and health problems.

Many dogs are treated like they are immune from common heath problems – they are NOT! They suffer many of the same health issues that afflict humans; teeth and gum disease, ear infections, toe nail problems, and hair issues, just to name a few.

Well, don’t get discouraged, because a few simple and easy grooming practices can help you prevent the premature aging of your pet. Basic personal dog grooming is the key to early recognition of skin and tumor issues, dental problems, and mobility difficulties.

To help you establish a regular dog grooming regimen, the following tips are provided covering five key areas; brushing, bathing, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and dental hygiene.

Brushing Your Dog

Brushing, or grooming, your dog is a great time for bonding with her and providing the physical contact that all dogs desire. This practice promotes a lustrous shine on the dog’s coat, whiling eliminating dirt, debris, and dead fur.

This is also the perfect opportunity to examine your dog’s skin for fleas and ticks, lumps, cuts, or contusions. And while you’re at it, take a moment and examine her ears, eyes, teeth and nails.

Bathing Your Dog

Here is the good news – most dogs only need bathing once a month, unless she likes to play in the rain and mud. If she does get dirty on a regular basis, adjust your bathing schedule accordingly.

A prerequisite to bathing is a good brushing. This loosens up any dead hair or dirt and makes the bathing process much more productive. A good practice is to start bathing your dog as young as possible. Generally start when she is about 14-15 weeks old, or earlier, if they tend to get into messy situations.

Find a good location to bathe your dog, preferably one that is contained and has good drainage. Undoubtedly, water will be spilled or shaken near and far. An enclosed shower or tub is an ideal location, or if your dog is a smaller breed, the kitchen sink can also work.

Wet your dog thoroughly, avoiding her head to keep water out of her eyes and ears. Plug your dog’s ears with cotton balls if there is a risk of flooding the ears. Use a dog shampoo and lather up the dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and squeeze off the excess water. The face should be washed with a soft, damp cloth. Towel dry your dog, and blow dry if desired, but it is best to keep her confined until dry.

Trimming Nails

Nail trimming can be a traumatic experience for some dogs. So, it is best to start the nail trimming experience as early as 2-3 months old to let your dog become accustomed to the practice. For puppies, you can often use finger nail clippers to tip the ends of the nails.

If this is just too much for your dog or puppy to handle all in one sitting, you may start with trimming only one paw at a time, giving your dog an extended break between sessions. The key to successful nail trimming is providing your dog lots of praise when she lets you cut a nail. Kind, soothing words of praise will let her know that she is loved and this experience is nothing to fear. Of course, a few dog treats after the session is over can’t hurt either.

Cleaning Ears

Inspect your dog’s ears often, but only clean them when there is evidence of dirt in the opening or canal. Use a cotton ball, never a cotton swab, to clean the dirt out of the ear. Soaking the cotton ball with a good ear cleaning solution provides the best results. Hydrogen peroxide can be substituted for the cleaning solution, if necessary.

If you notice that the dog’s ears are red, swollen, or emit a foul smell, the problem might be more serious and demand veterinary attention. Yeast infections, ear mites, and other ear problems are more easily treated by medications only available from your vet.

Keeping a Bright Smile

As a dog’s life span has been extended over the years, it is even more imperative that your dog maintain healthy teeth and gum tissue. You can assist her by brushing her teeth regularly. Start as early in life as possible, to get your dog accustomed to the feel of your finger or brush in her mouth.

Starting with your finger, or a special dog toothbrush fitted for your fingertip, begin massaging your dog’s gums and gently rubbing her teeth. Once she has become accustomed to the practice, try using a dog toothbrush, or small soft bristled human toothbrush, with dog-specific toothpaste. Never use toothpaste designed for humans on your dog.

Continuing this practice throughout your dog’s life will ensure that she will avoid gum disease, loose teeth, and related eating problems.

These easy-to-follow grooming tips take very little time compared to the years of enjoyment your dog will provide you and your family. Take care of your loving best friend and she will certainly return the favor many times over!

Bill Wilcox is a long time dog owner and experienced trainer. He is an avid author of dog care articles and writes for superior-dog-supplies.com and smart-dog-training.com. For more information visit: http://www.superior-dog-supplies.com
http://www.smart-dog-training.com

More articles at articles database

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

More articles at article database

The excitement of choosing your dog is over. You are arriving home and the family is rushing out of the car and into the house with the new puppy. As you look at the cute little face you ask yourself one question. Am I ready for this?

What to Feed This New Puppy.

First things first. You will have to decide on what this little puppy is going to eat. You need to choose a high quality diet. You need to do a little reasearch and make some decisions. Your first decision is what type of dog food you will choose.

1. Canned Dog Food
2. Dried Dog Food

Some people choose canned dog food because they feel it is more like real food. It retains about 70-80% of the water that is naturally in the vegetables and meat. This usually means that the puppy will drink less water. Be sure to supplement with some hard dog biscuits that are suitable for puppies which will help to keep their teeth clean.

Currently the most popular choice seems to be the dried dog food. Always choose the best quality food you can afford. You have to remember that if you were only going to eat one thing all your life it had better be good for you. Dried dog food is now a scientific blend of all the nutrients your dog will need but the better ones have less filler and the puppies need a lot of protein to grow.

For the first few days you might want to give the new puppy that same food that they were receiving at the kennel you bought them from. After that you can slowly start mixing in your new choice, using more each time until you have 100% of the new food. You may as well start with some dog training basics now by not leaving the food on the floor all day. Only put the food out when you decide and take it away after they have eaten. Do it often as they have to learn that food is only available when you decide.

Sleep Time Comes Fast.

Hopefully you have thought ahead enough to buy a crate. Get your puppy started sleeping in the crate from the first night and it will eventually treat it as a safe place to stay. Make sure that the bottom has a soft blanket for the puppy to curl up in. Unfortunately if you think that is the end of it for the night, you are wrong. As you try to sleep you will be constantly woken by the sad little cries of a puppy missing its mother and siblings. They are used to lots of warmth and noise so it might be a good idea to add a hot water bottle under the blanket and to leave a radio or TV on for a while. Some people even leave a loud ticking clock near the cage to simulate the heart beat of the mother.

Who Is Entertaining Whom?

You will soon realize that your puppy is not just entertaining but also needs to be entertained. You should have a selection of safe toys for them to play with such as:-

- Chew Ropes,
– Balls and Bones of Nylon
– Soft Toys

Make sure to be careful of the squeaky toys as the puppy could chew the toy and swallow the squeaker. This has often ended in surgery and even if it does not the squeaking will drive you insane as they catch on pretty quickly on how to bite in exactly the right spot. Only let them play with rubber balls if you are supervising as swallowed rubber can upset their stomachs.

Start With Dog Training Basics

A crate is useful training tool both for house training and puppy behavior in general. Treat it as you would a childs bedroom. It is a safe comfortable place to sleep but occasionally they will be sent there when naughty.

You should begin your dog training basics by putting your puppy in its crate any time you need to leave them unsupervised in the house, or at night. This gets them used to it and they will often go there on their own when they want to get away from people. They will cry at first but do not let them out right away. If you do they will quickly learn that all they have to do is whine and you will let them out.

There will come a time when you need to discipline your puppy. You should never hit your puppy or raise your voice. You can use the crate as a time-out place. This is useful if your puppy is play biting too much or if you have caught them chewing the furniture. Make sure that the punishment instantly follows the bad behavior or they will not know what they are in there for. Put them in quickly with a firm, No, and leave them in there for a few minutes. If you have to repeat it then increase the minutes until you get the action to stop. This one tool will give you some control and get you started on the dog training basics you will need.

Louise Nova endorses quality information and the best in dog behavior training programs on her site at Dog Training Basics.

More articles at articles database

Theres a horse show across the state in a few weeks, and youre planning on being there with your horses. However, its been awhile since you last pulled a horse trailer, and youre a little concerned about your trailering skills. After all, you want to arrive at your destination safely, with the horses as calm and relaxed as possible.

Guiding a loaded horse trailer down a country road or highway requires practical experience and know-how. Theres very little room for error. What do you do to ensure a safe, uneventful journey?

How to Ensure Safe Trailering

If youre out of practice, or if youve never towed a trailer before, obtaining adequate personal experience prior to the actual event is of the utmost importance. Just as if you were learning to drive for the first time, you should begin by practicing basic driving skills before getting out in traffic with the trailer.

The more experienced you become, the more prepared you will be for anything that may potentially happen. With more confidence and a higher level of awareness and preparedness, you should be better able to handle any unexpected situation that comes along.

Find a level field or a parking lot in which to practice. Mark your course with several highway cones, then, set out to work on the following driving skills:

Ready for the Highway

After youve practiced all the basic driving skills while pulling your horse trailer and you feel confident in your ability to handle the rig safely, youre ready to test your skills out on the road.

Try towing your trailer for short distances, at first. Make sure that you feel comfortable with turning corners in traffic, with backing your trailer, with parking on a grade, and with being able to stop your trailer quickly (should the need arise). Once you are confident in your towing abilities, youre ready to travel any distance with your horses.

Just remember to always be alert when out on the roads. Drive defensively and be prepared for any possible situation.

More articles at article database

A dog can be one of the most rewarding of pets, but also one of the most demanding. Selecting the right animal for you is an all-important aspect of the adoption process. One must consider a multitude of factors – ranging from living quarters to time commitments.

We all love to visualize a cute puppy playing innocently in the park. But is this the ideal pet for you? Do you have the time and patience to potty train and watch over the mischievous pup? Would an older dog better suit your lifestyle?

These questions, and many more, need to be answered before making such a critical decision. This is one time that you will be rewarded handsomely for considering all of the factors surrounding pet adoption. Remember, you owe it not only to yourself, but to your new best friend.

Follow these 7 Key Steps and finding the right dog for you will be doggone easy.

Determine the right size dog for your living arrangements and lifestyle

Your living arrangements, whether sprawling house or urban apartment, can put limitations on what breed of dog will best suit you. A large breed dog, or hyperactive breed, may not be the best choice for an apartment dweller. Even in a larger home, these types of breeds generally demand lots of exercise and play time. Are you willing to make that kind of time commitment?

Consider the right temperament for your family situation

Like people, dogs have different temperaments. Some breeds are very laid-back and don’t require a lot of maintenance, while other breeds can be very high-strung and demand lots of your attention. Certain breeds, by reputation, are not suitable for households with small children. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule, but as a general statement, avoiding these breeds is probably prudent.

Breeds that are considered playful and child-friendly include: Golden Retrievers, Beagles, Labrador Retrievers, Bearded Collies and Miniature Schnauzers, just to name a few.

Think about the climate where your dog will live

Arctic breeds, like Samoyeds and Huskies, have relatively thick coats and will be uncomfortable in hot, humid climates. Conversely, Greyhounds and other short-haired breeds can become very cold and chilled in more frigid climates. The point is to choose a breed that is compatible with your climate. Many breeds can adapt easily with proper protection, like a dog sweater, and limited exposure to extreme conditions.

Determine the amount of time you will have available for your new dog

Dogs are normally active pets and can, in seconds, go from lounging in their favorite spot to running laps with you around the track. One thing for certain, dogs need plenty of time for exercise and play. Of course, they expect you to be right there with them, joining in the fun.

You will also need to plan time for training, feeding, walking, and grooming your dog. Be certain that you can allocate this time, because all of these items are a must to ensure the well-being of your pet.

Consider whether a male or female dog is a better fit for your family

Though both males and females make great companion pets, males can sometimes have more behavioral problems and tend to be more rambunctious than females. Females are usually easier to house train, but may be more demanding of your attention. If size is a consideration, females are generally smaller in size than their male counterparts.

Strongly consider adopting a mixed-breed dog

Mixed-breed dogs often pick up the best traits of the combined breeds and are much less prone to inherited diseases and breed-specific behavioral problems. But as puppies, they can be a bit more difficult to predict their adult look and size.

However, mixed-breed mutts tend to have unique personalities and are very charming. An even better reason to consider a mixed breed is that many are in need of loving homes. If adopted, they tend to show their appreciation by becoming outstanding companions and faithful friends.

Spend as much time as possible with your prospective new family member before adopting

There is nothing like observing a pet firsthand to get a real feel for its personality. Watch the behavior of the dog or puppy and how he responds to children or other animals.

Ask these questions: What is his background? Is he friendly to people? Does he like to be petted? Does he look healthy? Does he act friendly with other animals? Does he obey any commands? Is he house-trained? The more answers you have to questions like these, the easier your decision will be.

And lastly, pets should never be an impulse purchase. The consequences of these decisions stay with you anywhere from 10 to 15 years. So be sure to take the time to match the right dog with your personal situation – it will make the experience one that you will cherish for a lifetime.

William Wilcox is a long-time dog lover and trainer. He is a very active volunteer with animal rescue groups in the Caribbean, like Pets From Paradise in the U.S. Virgin Islands. He writes articles for a number of dog-related websites. For more information visit: http://www.pets-from-paradise.com http://www.superior-dog-supplies.com

More articles at articles database

How many times have you seen this situation where a child comes through the door with a dog in tow? It looks skinny and skittish and is in need of a good meal and a bath. The child is looking with big eyes imploring, pleading, and desperately wanting a yes.

Well you may look at the animal and feel sympathy with its plight. But before you say yes to your child, consider this. When you take on an animal (of whatever kind) you are taking on a new family member and all the responsibility that go with it. A pet is not another thing in the house. It has a personality, a sense of loyalty to family members (if you treat them right) and has needs just like any person would.

Dogs ancestors were able to take care of themselves in the wild, but modern day dogs have been so domesticated that it is not an option for them in this day and age. Have you ever seen a perfectly healthy stray dog? I think that would be rare unless he wandered into your yard only a few days after being lost.

In this situation your first responsibility is to take care of the dogs immediate needs. You also want to take the dog to the vet to have him checked out. You should then do whatever it takes to find the dogs owners. After all, this is someones pet and they may be mourning the loss and are desperately looking for it.

Look for posters that have been put up and consider making your own to let people know that a dog has been found. Do everything possible until all efforts have been exhausted.

If the owner has not been found then start looking at your options. If you are entertaining the idea of keeping the dog, then decide who is going to be the main caregiver. Is that you, or the child? If it is the child then realize that the child knows nothing about taking care of a pet. Dont assume that the child will know what to do. Although, one thing you can be sure of in most cases, is that a child will give unconditional love for the dog. As a matter of fact, children wont look at them as pets but as a close personal friend.

If the child is going to take care of the dog then you will have to teach them how to do this.

1)They need food and water daily, obviously. If it is a large dog that eats a lot it can certainly dip into your budget.

2)Dogs need to be exercised daily for good health. A good run in the back yard or a throwing of the Frisbee or stick can be very therapeutic for the dog. Dogs do not respond well if they are not shown affection and are exercised every day.

3)They need regular veterinary shots and flea protection and heartworm medication. Regular baths are a must, and dont forget you need to take care of their teeth. There are simple solutions to that like a tooth biscuit.

4)Dogs will respond to training if you make it a fun and rewarding experience for them. They will look forward to it because its a game for them. They will follow the rules of your home if you are consistent.

If you are willing to do all this then not only will you enjoy the relationship you build with your dog but you will also earn their loyalty and trust. Dont be surprised just how much of a family member your pet can be. Your child will also learn some important lessons in responsibility for others. It can be a beautiful thing!

All the best!

About the Author

Willie Jones http://www.petshopdepot.com

Willie is a freelance writer and researcher who loves to share her views with others and enjoys other peoples views. After all, is this not how we share and learn from each other? If you would like to send me an email please send it to willie@petshopdepot.com. I will receive it and answer. Pet Shop Depot

More articles at articles database