Cat and Dog

According the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, they have found that grapes and raisins can cause poisoning in dogs when eaten in large quantities. This is something that dog owners should be aware of if you normally give your pet fruits and vegetables as snacks.

The Center managed 140 grape/raisin poisoning cases from April 2003 to April 2004. According to their information, out of these 140 cases, over 50 of these dogs developed symptoms of toxin poisoning ranging from vomiting to kidney damage and kidney failure. Seven of the dogs died. At this point, no one really knows what is in this fruit that causes such a problem in dogs.

What Are The Symptoms?

The toxic symptoms can vary, but most of the signs exhibited by canines include lethargic behavior, abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea and signs of kidney failure within 6 to 24 hours of eating this fruit. Should you come home to find that your dog has eaten the bunch of grapes sitting on the table or a packet of raisins, take them to your veterinarian immediately.

However, please be advised that your veterinarian may not even be aware that grapes and raisins can cause severe toxicity in your dog… so you may need to educate your veterinarian on this. Be insistent and have blood tests done immediately.

How do you know if your dog has eaten too much grapes or raisins? Here’s a true story to give you some idea:

One lady lost her Australian Shepherd/Saint Bernard mix to renal failure after her dog ingested one cup of raisins. Keep in mind that this would be a fairly large dog. After the dog began vomiting later in the day she took her dog into her veterinarian. The vet believed it was only an upset stomach and sent the dog home. It wasn’t until a few days later when the dog’s condition hadn’t improved that blood tests were finally taken. Unfortunately, by then acute renal failure had developed and the dog died, despite the aggressive treatments given.

What Is The Treatment Provided?

Care and management of this toxic poisoning will most often consist of induced vomiting, stomach pumping and administrating activated charcoal to prevent the absorption of the toxins by the body. This will most likely be followed by intravenous fluid therapy for at least 48 hours.

In addition, blood tests will have to be taken to check on the elevation of blood calcium levels (Hypocalcaemia), as well as on the elevation levels of blood urea nitrogen, creatinine and phosphorus, all of which affect kidney function.

Unfortunately in some cases, even aggressive treatment may not work due to the dog’s poor response to the treatment or length of time between realizing that your dog is showing signs of poisoning and getting help. Kidney damage and failure is very likely, which could result in death. Therefore it is imperative that you get veterinary help as soon as possible. Don’t wait for symptoms to appear if you know your pet has eaten several raisins and/or grapes.

If you have been feeding your pet these fruits on occasion as a snack (one or two grapes now and again probably won’t do any damage), it would be wise to stop the practice altogether. There are many other safe and healthy alternatives such as apples, carrots and celery that dogs are quite happy to snack on instead.

Rose Smith owns Caring For Canines which provides information on natural & holisitic methods that you can follow so your dog will have a long and healthy life. Read articles about canine nutrition, pet health care, natural medications, and more. Visit: http://www.caringforcanines.com today.

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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Just like humans, almost all pets do benefit from a vitamin supplement. And just as there has been considerable controversy in the medical fraternity over whether humans need extra vitamins, so too do many vets dispute the need for nutritional supplements for pets.

The argument usually goes something like this: The majority of commercial petfoods contain added vitamins. So even though your pet’s diet may be inadequate, the vitamins added to pet food compensates for this.

Wrong! Many human breakfast cereals contain added vitamins – they’re sprayed on after the processing. And it has been established that you would ingest more vitamins by eating the packaging than you do by eating the cereal inside. It’s a gimmick. A gimmick to get you to buy the cereal and feel comfortable in the knowledge that you’re getting some vitamins even if you don’t eat plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables. But guess what? It doesn’t compensate. Even the fruit and vegetables we buy today have very little in them by way of vitamins and minerals, by comparison to what they should ideally contain. Unless you’re buying organic fruit and veges direct from the farm and eating them the same day, you’re not optimising your vitamin intake from fresh food.

This is why many of us now routinely supplement our diet with vitamin tablets, even when we eat a balanced diet. If we don’t, we’re likely to be vitamin deficient to some degree. That’s why cancer, heart disease, and other degenerative conditions are at an all time high, and are still on the increase. A hundred years ago these conditions were unknown.

It’s the same for our pets. In fact, they’re generally in a worse position than us in relation to an adequate intake of vitamins. That’s because, contrary to what many of the so-called authorities will have you believe, the garbage that’s sold to us as pet food is causing your pet irreparable harm. So the fact that it may have some added vitamins is just a complete gimmick, and absolutely worthless from your pet’s health’s point of view.

It’s vital that you feed your pet something as close to its natural diet as possible, and in most cases that’s still not enough. Supplementation is essential.

Your pet’s natural diet is exclusively raw food. Is that what you’re feeding your pet? Or do you opt for the convenience of commercial pet food some or all of the time? Unless you can replicate what your pet would eat in the wild, you owe it to your pet to give a vitamin supplement. And who can replicate exactly what they’d eat in the wild? In exactly the same proportions?

No one. So you know what that means? You do need to give your pet a vitamin supplement.

For information on vitamins for pets, go to: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/Vitamins

Vitamins for pets have produced remarkable results in animals with specific health concerns such as allergies or other skin irritations, dull coat, lack of energy, as well as much more serious problems like cataracts, epileptic seizures, tumors and leukemia.

Naturally, you should ALWAYS consult your vet with ALL health concerns, but if your pet does have a serious health problem, ask your vet whether a vitamin supplement could help. And if your pet is already reasonably healthy, keep him/her that way by giving a vitamin supplement. It can’t do any harm! And you could well be ensuring that your pet has a longer life practically overflowing with health!

(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural health for dogs. For your free special report, click here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com

And to read some truly amazing stories on how vitamins can help your pet, go to: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/HPTestimonials

Canine Possession Aggression

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name. Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that its normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldnt take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

1.When you give a command, he does not always need to

obey.

2.If he shows aggression, you back off. And by our

actions, we have successfully taught him to resource

guard.

Advice?
Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early
Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isnt seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like Take it. When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to Drop or Dead Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, better item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to drop and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue
Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward
Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be dead drop leave or trade immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding. Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo
Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dogs behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment. Stan Rawlinson

24 July 2005

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Founder Member
PAACT
Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers
Membership Number 101
http://www.paact.co.uk

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This large and leggy hound is well known outside of France, its country of origin, even though there are few examples of the breed elsewhere except in the dog shows of Europe and Great Britain. This breed is often termed the King of Hounds because of its remarkable stature and great beauty. Furthermore this hound is noted for its tenacity on the hunt and its deep and melodious voice. The Grand Bleu is tall but proportionate in size and is marked with black patches on a mottled roan background with tan. The black patches on the head must always cover both ears and the sides of the head and the entire body is so mottled as to leave the impression of blue roan coloration.

There are four dogs which come from the region of Gascogne in France, all have the Gascogne designation in their name; they are believed to be among the purest of the hound dogs since they are directly descended from the original Phoenician hounds crossed with the Gallic scenting hounds. The Grand Bleu lays claim to being the direct descendant of the now extinct Chien Courant, a hound of legendary strength and size. The Grand Bleu was known to bring down wolves in the early days, now it is a hound that is used primarily for hunting deer and wild boar.

The Grand Bleu is nearly as tall as the larger Giant breeds such as the Newfoundland or the Great Pyr but does not carry nearly the weight. It can be 29-29 inches at the shoulder but the weight is that of the Labrador retriever or other large dogs weighing about 80 pounds. This gives him a lean appearance but this is deceiving for he is a well built dog and has considerable endurance for the hunt if he is conditioned. These hounds have a slow gait and a methodical approach to the hunt, which is a useful trait in the hot climate of southern France, where everything seems to move at a relaxed pace. This is a typical hound in manner and affability, being gentle and accepting of people and quite comfortable as a house dog or a kennel dog. His greatest joy is to go on the hunt however and since he is independent as most hounds are he needs to be in a fenced area if kept outside.

This is a hound that is quite strong physically. His natural playfulness as a puppy and his large size can make him a real nuisance to have in a household until he learns to be mannerly. Because of his large size he needs early training in obedience as do all large dogs. Generally the Bleu De Gascogne is little used as a hound today and he is more of a dog that is shown . He is registered by both the F.C.I. and the Kennel Club of Great Britain but is not recognized by the A.K.C. The Grand Bleu de Gascogne has become a breed that is admired as a home or farm companion of great gentleness and affection. Yet the dog has a voice that will intimidate the strangers on the property and consequently he makes a reliable watchdog also.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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The pins of your brush should make contact with the skin at the beginning of the brush stroke. From there, make a straight stroke outward to the ends of the hair. Try to teach your dog (and I say this in a do as I say, and not do as I do, because this is a very hard thing for me to teach my dogs to do….but that is me….and I need more practice. So with practice it can be done, and if you are planning to have the long coat of hair on your shih tzu, you will need to teach the dog to lie still on his side. Brush one layer at a time, then pull another layer and repeat the process until you have brushed to the center part of your dog. So the dog is on its side and you begin brushing at the lower end of the body and work your way up to the top part of the body to the part. Once you complete one side, turn the dog over and repeat the process.

Start out slow, and start midway in the body. Do the legs, the tail, the feet, the head and stomach area last. These can be some of the touchiest areas on the shih tzu.

If you run into static electricity you can try a mixture of two tablespoons or less of your favorite creme rinse mixed with two cups of water in a spritzer bottle and lightly spray that on each layer as you are brushing. Put on some relaxing music for the both of you and try to make an enjoyable time of bonding.

After thorughly brushing the dog, run a wide tooth comb through the layers. What I do is have several types of combs on hand. I have one very wide tooth comb, a regular comb and a very small comb that is actually best to use on the face or the feet. With a comb, you can then get even closer to the skin and drag at each and every tangle. Not really drag out, but gently remove the tangles that get very close to the skin. And if you keep up on your brushing daily you won’t have a big problem running your combs through the coat slowly and gently.

After the bath,when blow drying your shih tzu, turn the temperature down as the hair begins to dry. You can put your shih tzu in a cage with a dry towel in the bottom after they have bathed and you have toweled dried. Allow the dog to shake out as much extra moisture as possible. Turn the dryer in the direction of the cage to blow-dry some of the moisture from the coat while you are not brushing. This can reduce the brushing time and takes some of the stress out of brushing and drying the hair at the same time. You will have a nicer affect if you finish the drying process out of the cage while you brush the hair out.

Now for that beautiful, finishing touch – the topknot and bow. The absolute best way to become a pro at this would be to watch a pro do it, such as a professional dog groomer or handler.

Please rate this article.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Weekly updates of available puppies. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

The only way to be 100% sure of getting a verified pure breed Maine Coon cat is to buy a pedigree kitten from a breeder. The breeder should be able to present a family tree of your cats pedigree and provide relevant certification.

A recommended place to start a search for a reputable breeder in your local area is the Maine Coon Breed Fanciers Association (www.mcbfa.org) Maine Coon kittens can be instantly recognizable by the long tufty ears and oversized paws, as seen in the classic longhaired American however there is a European strain of Maine Coon, (my own Maine Coon, King Henry comes from a German line) which has a shorter ruff around the neck, and often a fuller, squarer muzzle. The differences are not apparent until the cat is between 12 to 18 months.

In terms of identifying a pure pedigree Maine Coon, youll be relying quite heavily on information the breeder is presenting to you. If you have difficulty finding a reputable breeder, you could try and get a recommendation by talking to individuals at a Maine Coon event or an all breeds Cat show. It is essential you are happy with your breeder – if you are becoming a Maine Coon owner for the first time, you may need to rely on their expert advice.

You can expect to pay anywhere between $500 and $800 for a pure breed Maine Coon. With food, litter, vet bills and cat-sitters for holidays, Maine Coons can be a relatively expensive investment. All Maine Coon owners will agree that they are a truly wonderful breed and will repay you many times over.

IMPORTANT TIP: This could save a lot of heartache, trouble and expense later on; When buying an expensive pet, do not go for the kitten you feel sorry for and looks like it needs help. Any kittens with signs of withdrawal, low energy or general apathy, should really be avoided. Choose an independent, lively, energetic kitten. Pick out kittens that dont necessarily come to you but are, however, interested in their surroundings.

Its best to pick a local breeder and visit them in their home, when youre first making your initial enquiries to check the kittens living conditions, health and welfare of all cats living in the same environment.

Although it sounds like common sense, have questions prepared that will help you to establish whether the breeder can be trusted.

Questions youll definitely want to ask:

1. How much experience does the breeder have? If you need assurance about the breeders ability/expertise ask to speak to someone who has recently purchased a Maine Coon from that breeder.

2. Who are the kittens parents and are they champions? Even if you dont intend to show your cat, youll still want to find out about their pedigree. Thats what you are paying for. If this is just not important, you can sometimes find cheaper Maine Coons that are called pet quality meaning they do not meet the required physical standards for showing. This does not mean they are not perfectly healthy.

3. Does the stud live with the breeder? If not, can the breeder guarantee that the stud has not been subjected to any illnesses e.g. cat flu. Has the breeder bred the stud before?

4. Is there any known heredity illnesses in the ancestral line such as HCM (can cause heart failure) and hip problems?

5. Have any of the other cats suffered from any illnesses for e.g. have any recent litters suffered from any strain of cat flu?

6. If relevant to your situation, ask if the kitten is comfortable around other animals and children?

7. At what point, could the kittens leave their mother (I would be concerned if the breeder allowed the kitten to leave its mother if it is less than 12 weeks).

8. Will a vet check the kittens before leaving the breeders home? How many times? If the Maine Coon becomes ill after it has left the breeder, who is responsible for paying vets fees or could the kitten be returned to the breeder?

9. Youll also want to find out how often the queen is impregnated; because a queen subjected to too regular pregnancies can be prone to producing weak or sickly kittens.

Other things you may want to check/do:

10. The living conditions of the stud and queens e.g. the cleanliness of the cages/rooms and the health/welfare of the cat etc.

11. Will the cats be litter trained before they move to their new homes?

12. Also, the environment where the mother and kittens are living. Are there toys, clean litter, warmth, food and water?

13. Check the eyes of the kitten to evaluate its health. Never purchase a kitten that has weeping eyes.

14. The breeders contract. Have a read of the written agreement before you commit yourself. Pay particular attention to areas of responsibility should the kitten become unwell soon after youve bought him/her.

15. You should book your new kitten in for an all round check with your own vet almost as soon as youve collected from the breeder. If there are any signs of problems, youll want to know within the first 24 hours.

On the whole, Maine Coon breeders are passionate about their cats and love what they do. Theres not a whole lot of money to be made in breeding Maine Coons, and it is very demanding work.

Unless, your gut feeling tells you otherwise, you can expect to be talking to breeders who are totally dedicated Maine Coon lovers.

Copyright 2006 Sarah Crosier

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Introduction

If you are considering adding a dog to your household, stop and take a few minutes to consider if you are really ready for the responsibility having a dog will entail. And if you are thinking of adding a puppy, you really need to consider if you, your family and your current lifestyle can accommodate a new puppy and if you are ready to expend the time and money needed to properly raise one.

Step One: Evaluate Your Lifestyle

Are you at home enough for a puppy? Or is your work close enough to your home for you to come home several times a day and let the puppy out or walk him? If the answer to either is yes, then great. You are a good candidate for owning a puppy. Puppies need a consistent schedule with plenty of opportunities to eliminate, where you want them to. Their bladders and bowels are small and they cannot ?hold it? until you get home.

Chewing: Puppies teethe just like human babies and chew while their new little dog teeth emerge. Items of clothing, shoes, belts, electrical cords (which are potentially very dangerous to your puppy) and other household items will full of puppy tooth marks while your new dog breaks in his new teeth.

Sleep: If you are someone who needs 8 hours of uninterrupted sleep every night, then a puppy is not for you. Your new puppy will be very demanding. For one, he will miss his litter mates. Ticking clocks, hot water bottles and plush toys will not be an adequate substitute and will not be able to make a puppy ball with your new family member. If you have had children, owning a new puppy will be a lot like having a newborn human baby.

Exercise: Puppies love to play. If you or other members of your family have time and energy to play with your new dog, then great, you are in for a real treat. Puppies love to play.

Step 2: What Size And Type Of Dog Do You Want?

Size: The space you have available for a dog will be a prime driver in the size of dog you adopt. If you adopt a puppy, you may not know how big the dog will ultimately grow to be. If you have a single family home with a good-sized yard, the size of the dog will matter less. If you live in an apartment of a high-rise building, the size of the dog will matter more. On the other hand, if you adopt an adult dog, there will be no mystery about what the ultimate size of the dog will be.

Do I Need An Instant Friend? With an older dog, you automatically have a buddy that can go anywhere and everything with you right now.

Bond: Rescued dogs will quickly bond with their new family. Dogs who have been uprooted from their homes or had a tough start in life are more likely to bond with their new people. Those dogs who have lost their families because of death, divorce, or other upheaval go through a terrible grieving process. But once attached to a new family they will be anxious to please. They know too well what losing a family is like, and they will not be interested in going through that again, ever. A rescue dog knows what it is like to be loose and without a permanent home. He or she will appreciate you that much more. Most rescue dogs will make exceptionally affectionate and attentive pets who will make a wonderful lifetime companion.

Dog & Your Home Checklist

Take this quick test to determine the type of dog that best suits you and your family?s lifestyle.

1.I have the time to walk and train a new puppy several times a day.
yes no.
If yes, one point for a puppy. If no, add a point for an older dog.

2.I do not mind too much if some of my property gets chewed by a playful puppy.
yes no.
If you do not mind, score one point for a puppy. If you do mind, score one point for an older dog.

3.A good night?s sleep is not as important for me because I can nap or I do not require as much sleep as other people.
Sleep not important Sleep at night is important. If you can manage without a full night?s sleep, score a point for a new puppy. If you need your sleep, score a point for an older dog.

4.I have the time and inclination to spend time playing with a new dog.
yes, I have time no, my time is limited.
If your answer is yes, then score a point for owning a puppy. If you answered no, score a point for an older dog.

5.The ultimate size of the dog does not matter much because I have plenty of space.
size does not matter, I have room my space is very limited.
If the ultimate size of the dog is not an issue for you, score a point for adopting a puppy. On the other hand if the space you have is constrained, score a point for the known quantity of an older dog.

6.Having a good idea of the dog?s personality is important because I need the dog to be a good match for me and my family.
If the personality is less important, score a point for a puppy.
I need to know the temperament of the dog when I adopt, score a point for an older dog.

Score Your Results
If you scored any of the questions for an older dog, you should seriously consider adopting an older one only. While all puppies are adorable, cuteness is not the best reason for adopting a dog. So many people think that dogs in a shelter are somehow inferior. But it is not uncommon for a very expensive, purebed dog to end up in a shelter because people send their dogs to a shelter for lots of reasons, most of which have nothing to do with the dog. The original owner may not have had the money or the time to adequately care for the dog. Often times, divorce, illness or death are why the dog ends up in the shelter. Good rescue shelters will evaluate both the dog and the prospective owner before they are matched.

Conclusion
Choosing a rescue dog over a purchased pup is a decision only you and your family can make. The information presented here is designed to help you make an informed decision. Adopting a rescue dog will help give a potentially wonderful pet a second chance at life, so adopting a rescue will give him a second chance at life.

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To learn more about the plight of adult dogs who need a home, visit http://www.gettingluckythedog.com. To contact the author, call Harold Nicoll at 989-839-8293 or via email at hgnicoll@sbcglobal.net.

The next time you go away, whether it’s for business or pleasure, you might want to consider hiring a pet sitter to come into your home to care for your pets. Employing the services of a professional pet sitter will allow your pet to stay comfortable in his own home, gives you peace of mind knowing he’s safe and in capable hands, and frees you from having to rely on friends or relatives. Before you hand over your keys and wave goodbye to Rover and Fluffy though, take time to educate yourself about pet sitters and the services they provide. Interview a few pet sitters, get to know them a bit, and ask questions. Find out about their experience, how frequently they’ll visit your pets, how long visits last, what they’ll do while with your pets, how they’ll handle emergencies, and fees. In addition to general information about their services, you’ll want to cover a few very important points, as listed below.

Insurance and/or bonding: This won’t prevent accidents from happening but it will protect you and the pet sitter to a certain extent should a mishap occur. Most sole proprietors are insured, and most services that employ pet sitters are bonded and insured. It’s a good idea to ask for proof of insurance.

Pet emergency provisions: If your pet becomes ill when you’re away, it’ll be important for your pet sitter to know what measures to take if you cannot be reached. He or she should have your vet’s contact information, and the type of treatment and/or amounts you authorize if you cannot be contacted.

Pet sitter emergency procedures: Ask what measures will be taken if your pet sitter becomes ill and is unable to care for your pets, if he or she is unable to get to your home due to inclement weather, or in the event of a natural disaster.

Key security: Ask how the key will be identified and stored. Keys should not be attached to anything with your name or address on it, and when not in use, ideally they should be kept secure in a locked safe or other secure enclosure. Most pet sitting businesses will also offer to keep your key for future pet sitting assignments.

Contracts and other forms: Be sure that your pet sitter provides you with a written contract detailing such things as dates, times, services agreed upon, emergency procedures, key security, rates, etc.

References: Ask for names and contact information for a few clients. Take time to talk to these people and ask about their experiences and whether or not they’d hire that particular pet sitter again. Many pet sitters are also happy to give references from other pet care professionals such as veterinarians, groomers, or trainers.

Pet issues: Inform your prospective pet sitter of any health problems, behavioral issues, or other important factors regarding your pets. Giving your pet sitter as much information as you can about your pet will enable her to give the best care possible.

Home issues: As with pet issues, be sure to inform your pet sitter of any oddities about your home that may arise in your absence (toilet that overflows, doors that don’t lock properly, security alarms, etc.).

Because pet sitting is a personal service, you and your pet need to be comfortable with the person you invite into your home. Look for a sense of professionalism with a personal touch, be sure to take into account your gut feeling, and observe your pet’s reaction to the pet sitter you interview. With a little bit of preparation and investigation, your pet will be able to stay safely in his own home while you’re away, and will be there to eagerly greet you with love and affection when you return.

To locate a pet sitter, dog walker, or dog daycare in your area, or to learn more about the services they provide, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

2005 PetsitUSA.com All rights reserved.

Therese Kopiwoda is a professional pet sitter and the owner of PetsitUSA.com. Founded in 2003, PetsitUSA.com allows pet owners to locate professional pet sitters, dog walkers, and dog daycares, and learn about the services they provide. For more information, go to http://www.petsitusa.com.

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